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I went on a couple rides with the N-Gear jumpstop but still had a couple dropped chains when the chain hopped up and fell to the inside, past the jumpstop. I remembered seeing someone that made a device out of a clam, a post, and some coins (believe it was Cloxxi). So I decided to fashion my own. I had an old front derailleur to butcher and this is what I came up with. The logic being that the post over the chainring would prevent the chain from hopping up and the lexan plate takes care of any possible sideways movement...although that should not even be possible if the chain is unable to clear the teeth of the ring. I have not been able to ride on this yet so not sure if there will be any complications. Thoughts?





 

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Here's some pics of a Haro V5 1x9 that I just built up. I think the V5 is an overlooked frame by a lot of riders because the V series is on the lower end of the price spectrum. But the V5 has great geomerty and feels very stable across the board. I pieced this bike together with some decent ebay buys and some end of the year specials at the various online bike shops. The frame was actually a new bike stripped for parts and I got it for 45 bucks which is a good place to start :thumbsup:

here's the high points:

X0 drivetrain w/race face cranks and a salsa ss ring
manitou R7 super w/remote lockout
avid bb7 brakes
dtswiss 4.2 rims and dtswiss rear hub...specialized stout front hub (the stock wheels off a sj fsr carbon, I guess someone felt the need to upgrade the wheels on a 5,000 dollar bike)
bontrager race stem and race face carbon riser bars / king headset
fizik saddle
panaracer fire xc tires

I don't feel the need for a fs bike in Texas and this fits the bill perfectly. Light, stable, fast, and great climbing characteristics....








 

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42 tooth with a 11-34!

I have not tried 1X9 yet, but I wanted to try it for racing, except I wanted to use a big ring in the place of the middle, so that I can still have top end speed on not to hilly courses. I did not know how many teeth to run on the big ring 40, 42, 44 teeth with my 11-34 cassette for gearing range. I went down to my favorite race course CCCX at the same property as the Sea Otter and picked a 42 tooth big ring as a good compromise between fast gears and climbing gears. 42-34 sounds like a lot, but it is way better that SS.

All I have to do now is get short BMX chain ring bolts and modify/tune the XT cranks to accept a big ring in the middle ring position.
 

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euroford said:
i would definitly think that an XLT 3.0 would be a build worthy of going with the more deluxe solution of a real bashguard/chainguide setup such as an MRP or E.13.
I agree with the worthy comment and have done the MRP, E13, and even a full-on AC for my GT STS-1000. But in all reality, the Rohloff is all that I need and I can almost gurantee that it helped to keep my total build weight to 27.4 lbs. It is an uncomplicated system and now that I have it properly set-up, cannot fathom why I would need a bashguard for anything other than to add some weight.

I would like to say that I have never dropped a chain with this setup but that would be a lie. The first ride out after the build-up I kept "popping" the chain under power. The chain would "pop" off of the chainring and fall between the arm and ring after being forced through the space left between the guide and ring. At first I thought that it was a link binded up in the chain. I realized a day later when I was hosing it down that I had broken one of the aluminum chainring bolts and that the chainring was flexing under pressure. I took some time, un-inverted the spider, removed my homemade nylon spacers, and went with some original Shimano bolts. I originally inverted the spider as it looked like the chain would be riding on the end of the spider's arms. In the picture it looks like the chain hits the spider, but after a couple of days worth of riding, there is nary a mark on the end of the spider from the chain. I also got the perfect chainline to boot.


 
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jcayce...

nice setup! one thing that would be cleaner than what you have is to order yourself a Boone Ti ring to go spiderless on that sweet XTR crankset.
 

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How important is chain line?

On my unfinished Rocky Team Scandium, I have a 50mm front chain line but, I think I could run 47.5 mm without my 42 ring rubbing. I just don't want to through down for a 113 mm bb right now.
 

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Well here she is: '06 Trance 3 with quite a few non stock bits:
XT brakes, ethirteen bashie with Envy Inner ring. Thomson stem & post, Race FAce Deus XC bar, DMR V12 mag pedals, Maxxis Advantage 2.4 up front & Michelin Hot S 2.2 up back. Specialized Avatar saddle. Trying out new cable routing to minimise flex & seat stay rub. And yes the brakes are new hence I still have to shorten some cables!
Absolutely love this bike!


 

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mechmann_mtb said:
jcayce...

nice setup! one thing that would be cleaner than what you have is to order yourself a Boone Ti ring to go spiderless on that sweet XTR crankset.
Thanks for the compliment, I've got a write-up of most of the build in the Jamis forum.

A couple of things:

1. I'm worried that if I go spiderless that it will throw off my chainline.
2. I'm worried about the XTR crankset holding up. I have about three solid rides on the Jamis and have had a couple of problems. The first was with the aforementioned chain popping which led to the chain forcing itself between the spider and the arm gouging the edge a little. This doesn't look like it really compromises the arm in any way but I'm worried about it though. The second problem was the non-drive crank arm working lose on a ride and me hobbling for a little while before I could get a chance to dismount and tighten it. The splines on the arm look okay although a little 'smooshed' and the BB looks untouched. The third problem and the one that I'm worried about most is when I torqued down on the crank arm bolts, I did so without the washer on the bolt. The bolts actually compressed the aluminum from the force of torquing it down and I'm worried about the integrity of the arm/bb interface. It's probably nothing, but I tend to over-worry things. I robbed some washers off of one of my trailer-queen bikes and reinstalled the bolts with some nylon pipe tape. If worse comes to worse, I'll be throwing on a new crankset, but like I said, it's probably just me worrying too much (a little OCD and AR). That would really suck as the crankset has about 50 miles on it.
 

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Here are some pics I snapped of mine. It's an Iron Horse Azure I just built up (I want to try the DW-Link) with a Fox Talas RLC and CK wheels, thomson post/stem, SLR saddle, Easton Monkeylight, etc. Rear cassette is Ti XTR, shifter is '07 X9. Hoping I wont have any troubles with the chain dropping onto the BB, there's no good place on the seat tube for a jumpstop due to the pivot bracing.
 

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jumpin_joe2u said:
I absolutely understand that some people's riding styles require bashrings....I'm not saying nobody should run one. I am just asking how many people are running bashrings combined with jump-stops, just to serve the purpose of chain retention.
I wasn't gonna get a bashring but since I got a triple crankset and then stripped the outer rings, I needed something to take up the extra space from the abscence of the big ring, so I used that as an excuse to get a bashguard.:D
 
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klein freak...

most people try to get away without a chain retention device at some point in time. some actually don't have a problem. it depends on how you ride and how rough the terrain is.

there may be some options for you like the inner ring that has been discussed.

good luck! nice bike!
 
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