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Shimano XTC PD-M980 VS CB'S Eggbeaters

2532 Views 12 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  jeffscott
Looking for some help as to what my next pair of pedals should be... Shimano xtc or CB's eggbeaters?

I am using CB's eggbeaters that are of the lowest quality from five years ago and have had zero problems with them. But, I am wondering if I should switch it up and try some Shimano xtc's or stick with what I know and just upgrade to some eggbeater 3's?

Another question, what is the purpose of the bracket that goes around the Candies? Is that for added support and a better plat form? And can you notice the difference?

Appreciate all advice!
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I prefer the spd over the egg beater. But, thats just me. I dont like the weight of the xtr though, too heavy (or any spd for that matter). if you like egg beaters, stick with them.
I agree about the weight but shimano`s just go,go and go......
i have a set of the eggbeater 3's and 11's. i think they are way better than the previous design (i have 1, 2, and 4 Ti of the old design).

the new pedals seem to have better engagement. not sure the reason for this, could be just new springs. the new design also should have less friction and issues due to the new bearings (but some on here have reported of them showing up dry and going bad, so i took ours apart and added grease although there was plenty in ours from the factory)

if you just want to try something different i say go for it! i did the same thing and purchased some XTR pedals. i had reliability issues with the XTR and wound up only doing one race on the XTR's.

i don't like the way candies feel. i always feel like the cage interferes with my shoes when trying to get in or out of them. i like the minimalist and simple design of the eggies.

i think my wife is in the process of working through deciding on candies for this next year. she has a hypothesis that the support/platform could help with her sesamoid issues. we don't have the new candies though, only SL and 4Ti of the old design.

the new XTR's are supposed to have a great platform, so if that is something you are looking for then that might be a good thing to try.

best of luck!
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The XTR's last for years....

Only if the oring is properly seated in the correct position...took me two tear downs to get it right, havn't touched them in 3 years since
I've had some XTR pedals for a little over a year. Maybe I didn't grease them enough, but I'm on full tension now and can only get enough cleat retention to stay clipped in. I think the springs might be worn out.
jeffscott said:
The XTR's last for years....

Only if the oring is properly seated in the correct position...took me two tear downs to get it right, havn't touched them in 3 years since
This oring you speak of, where is it located?
I just got some new 540's to try for a first time clipless, one of the pedals after about the first 10miles had grease builtup where the shaft meets the pedal, other was clean.
Does it have problems?
lassiar said:
I've had some XTR pedals for a little over a year. Maybe I didn't grease them enough, but I'm on full tension now and can only get enough cleat retention to stay clipped in. I think the springs might be worn out.
Sounds like your cleats are worn.

I recently went from 970 XTR (dunno what these "xtc" pedals are?) to the new model, and instantly noticed a major difference. So much so that my old XTRs now feel flogged out! (although they're still perfectly fine). I think the newer XTR model relies on a certain sole profile to work properly - I don't think Sidi/LG shoes will work very well, but Shimano shoes interface perfectly with the pedal and feel fantastic.
I meant XTR...My apologies for the sloppy typing. Thanks for the replies thus far.
I have the new xtr pedals with sidi shoes and they work fine........

Theres noticeably more surface area than alot of spds. Remind a bit of my old M535 pedals, which are still going!
Anyone have problems getting out of eggbeaters in emergency situations? Like you don't make it over a rock, etc.? I have had problems twice where if you had any upward pull on the pedal they would not release and I ended up having to catch myself on a rock with my hand.

If I have the problem again I am switching back to XTR for mountain and will save the egg 3's for my cyclocross bike. I have a new Carbon Epic Expert and I just can't justify potentially damaging the frame by not being able to get out of a pedal......

Oh, BTW...this is not user error. I have been riding clipless for 15 years. No problems with cyclocross but you can prepare to clip out for a barrier. Much different then having to get out really quickly on a technical climb.
bikeguy0 said:
Anyone have problems getting out of eggbeaters in emergency situations? Like you don't make it over a rock, etc.? I have had problems twice where if you had any upward pull on the pedal they would not release and I ended up having to catch myself on a rock with my hand.

If I have the problem again I am switching back to XTR for mountain and will save the egg 3's for my cyclocross bike. I have a new Carbon Epic Expert and I just can't justify potentially damaging the frame by not being able to get out of a pedal......

Oh, BTW...this is not user error. I have been riding clipless for 15 years. No problems with cyclocross but you can prepare to clip out for a barrier. Much different then having to get out really quickly on a technical climb.
I have only had unclipping problems for the first few rides for each pair. After about 100 miles they seem to bed in somehow and it gets a bit smoother for quick releases.
Eville140 said:
This oring you speak of, where is it located?
I just got some new 540's to try for a first time clipless, one of the pedals after about the first 10miles had grease builtup where the shaft meets the pedal, other was clean.
Does it have problems?
Yeah the oring sits on the pedal shaft and seals the pedal housing to the shaft...

keeps the grease in and the dirt and water out...

When you assemble the pedal if you have too much grease in there or even too much at the top of the pedal then the oring gets pushed out (towards the crankarm) and bingo it starts leaking.
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