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Single Speeder
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237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm having trouble with the back hub coming loose. It doesn't spin completely free like the front hub all the time either. I actually took it in to the LBS and had them rebuild it but that didn't do me much good either. Lately I've been having tighten it after every ride even if it's just around the neighborhood. I haven't taken off the free wheel yet but I have taken off the dust cap and made some adjustments using the lock ring. What is puzzling me is one side has a lock ring or lock washer and the other side is just threaded on so there is nothing to tighten it up against.

My question is what tools do I need to properly attempt curing this problem on my own and do any of you have a link to the hubs manual so I can check if it's missing a lock ring? I bought the wheel set from wheels and sprockets for about 230 they are laced to blunts. I run single speed on a Vassago Jabberwocky. This rear hub has had a problem since I bought the wheel set and the LBS didn't come through for me. Any advice on a repair method would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Forgot to mention this is the 8-9 speed disc hub.

UPDATE: LBS rescued my ride on Saturday and seem to have fixed it from coming loose.

Nate
 

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Former Bike Wrench
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15,976 Posts
What is puzzling me is one side has a lock ring or lock washer and the other side is just threaded on so there is nothing to tighten it up against.
Both sides have cones and lock nuts...the drive side is recessed into the freehub body.

You need to remove the cassette, loosen the non-drive side cone enough to expose the drive side cone and lock nut and make sure these are tight before making the adjustments on the non-drive side

For tools, you will need a chainwhip, cassette lockring tool, 15mm cone wrench, 17mm cone wrench
 

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~Disc~Golf~
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16,496 Posts
mtnbiker72 is completely correct, but I cant believe the shop didn't do the job right in the first place :skep:
 

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Single Speeder
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237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't see a lock nut on the drive side at all. Here's some photos. Do I need to take off the free wheel? Please advise further and thank you.

Metal Engineering Steel Gas Machine

Engineering Machine Steel Fastener Hardware accessory

Bicycle accessory Steel Household hardware Fastener Engineering

Household hardware Fastener Metal Steel Engineering
 

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Single Speeder
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237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't see it man... feel kinda silly, I can clearly see it in the second picture for the non drive side. I'm taking it up to the lbs with my receipt.
 

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~Disc~Golf~
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16,496 Posts
In the first pic, the lock or jam-nut is the most outboard thing and looks exactly like the jam-nut in the second pic - don't you see the flat areas??
 

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~Disc~Golf~
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16,496 Posts
mtnbiker72 said:
... You sure that bike shop did the work, because from the pictures it looks BAD!
If they did, CHANGE BIKE SHOPS!!!! (
Dood, it's cool if was you that tweaked it out. (I feel for ya either way)
EVERYBODY that was a newb at one point.

I suggest reading up on it, maybe Park Tool? - Find the section on repair/ maintenence, then navigate to hubs and find what fits your application. (cone/cup)

Also, I suggest totally cleaning out the whole thing (bearings - not freehub), getting some good moly-grease or marine grease and repacking the whole shebang. (contrary to some beliefs, it does not have to be 'bike-specific').

Check back frequently with any questions, and PICTURES if you are stuck. I know that particular hub intimately as I'm sure MTB72 does - after all he's a former wrench ;)

-best of luck!
 

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~Disc~Golf~
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16,496 Posts
mtnbiker72 said:
XT hubs have been and are still my favorite hub of choice. They are blue collar workhorses...nothing flashy or fancy but they keep going and going and going...
Oh, don't I know it ! + they are nearly silent :thumbsup:

and you forgot a couple 'going's ;)
 

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Single Speeder
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237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm sure it was me who tweaked it out. The axle is that way because I was trying to get at the drive side lock nut. It's been awhile since they fixed it but it started coming loose awhile ago. They took out the axle entirely up at the shop today. I need to get familiar with that drive side lock nut and how to access it. I think there were 5 or 6 ball bearings that dropped out while they were working on it at the shop. They said it shouldn't have come loose so fast though and to bring it back if it did it again.
Anyway, thanks for the help. I got a ride in today finally, we've been getting allot of rain.
 

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Single Speeder
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237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
mtnbiker72 said:
Its right there, I can clearly see it...I can also clearly see that you do not have the proper amount of axle on the drive side and the grease looks awful. You sure that bike shop did the work, because from the pictures it looks BAD!

This might help
Thank you so much for the link. I'm trying to get better at working on my bike.
 

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247 Posts
"locking nut" VS "lock nut" :)
Lock nuts tend to have a nylon insert or have a clamped end which does the same thing.
Locking nut or as said "jam" nut are applied against another nut or fastener to stop it shifting.
 

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Single Speeder
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237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Guys,

It's loose again :(. I guess riding a rigid single speed is kicking my hubs but. Since mtnbiker72 posted the manual maybe I can explain my problem better. I can easily see item #3 (lock nut) on the drive side. I realize now I was using the wrong term should have been saying cone instead of lock nut. I cannot see or access item #9 (right cone) in order to tighten up the drive side of the hub. I wish I knew why it was coming loose. Any advice for accessing item #9 from the schematic? The right hand cone? Thanks for any advice.
 

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Old man on a bike
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12,395 Posts
ETP2008 said:
Guys,

It's loose again :(. I guess riding a rigid single speed is kicking my hubs but. Since mtnbiker72 posted the manual maybe I can explain my problem better. I can easily see item #3 (lock nut) on the drive side. I realize now I was using the wrong term should have been saying cone instead of lock nut. I cannot see or access item #9 (right cone) in order to tighten up the drive side of the hub. I wish I knew why it was coming loose. Any advice for accessing item #9 from the schematic? The right hand cone? Thanks for any advice.
Remove the axle from the hub to access the drive side cone/locknut...
 

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273 Posts
29er wheelbuilding over-information!!

My dilemma is having a 29er wheelset for a clyde that doesn't break the bank or sound like I'm riding up a roller-coaster when I coast. I also want (Dear Santa) reasonable weight, 32 J-spokes, and a rim width that can handle 2.4's or 2.1's.
I tend to blunder along the trails, but at times I feel inspired to do a jump or a drop...I'd like to know my wheel/hub choice reflects my weight (215) and riding style. Sooooo, does anyone think that a heavier set of Mavic A317 w/756 Shimano hubs is an unwise choice?

ps-If you don't want to spend $200+ for a rear hub, are you better off sticking with a heavier XT?? I've been playing with Universal Cycles Custom Wheelbuilder....It's addictive!
 

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pps-Is there a rear hub that doesn't sound like a rollercoaster and will last for less than $200? If I can't find it it'll be XT. I'd like to go lighter but reliability rules,
 

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I Have Cookies
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2,644 Posts
pps-Is there a rear hub that doesn't sound like a rollercoaster and will last for less than $200? If I can't find it it'll be XT. I'd like to go lighter but reliability rules,
check these guys http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/ their banner was probably staring you right in the face when you were writing this post... they often have deals on XT hub equipped wheelsets.
 
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