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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I'm just curious. Is it possible to add a the functionality of free stroke adjustment to the Shimano SLX M7000 brakes?

I recently got mine and totally didn't think about it when I ordered them. I had a pair of XT m785 on my last bike and those brakes were awesome. After reading reviews on the SLX M7000, it seemed like they were plenty good.

Well, they've been great so far; however, there is a lot of empty lever movement before the pads start contacting the rotor. I really miss being able to adjust that and I like my brakes to start contacting early.

I didn't realize that these brakes don't have the free stroke adjustment screw like my old XTs had.

Is there any way to add the functionality, like just popping off the cap and adding the screw or something?

Thanks
 

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You could buy an xt lever and attach it. Although I don't think freestroke is all that usefull for shiano brakes as they don't have that much modulation though. (though this was purely based off my experience with them)
 

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You could hack the previous version and I think I saw someone with the M7000 version already modded the same way in a photo here on the forum, butt I'm not sure if I'm recalling it correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the responses admiral01 and Aglo.

I don't know if I want to invest in the XT lever since that would require a rebleed and I don't currently own a bleed kit (though I should probably get one). Of course that would be a pretty easy fix.

I was reading about the hack on the old version as well but was wondering if it was the same on the new version.
 

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Get a U-Shaped spanner set from eBay for $2.50 and throw that into your kit, has all the internals already on the BL.
2019-04-24_232322.jpg
The only difference from SLX to XT is 3 things...
  1. Paint - Flat black on the SLX vs Metal Flake on the XT
  2. Stroke Adjust Screw - SLX has a U-Shape Spanner slot vs XT has a Phillips slot.
  3. Texturing - SLX has none on the handle vs XT has some dimples.
UTB8CU3YsD_IXKJkSalUq6yBzVXam.jpg
Cosmetic differences only, same guts in the master cylinder, and a Titanium piston is available for it as well (For the caliper to).
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesal...0426100744&SearchText=shimano+xt+slx+titanium
2019-04-24_220008.jpg
 

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You can take your wheel out, press the lever one time (may take a 1 1/2 or 2 pull) and it will bring the pads in further and they won't reset fully back to original position. I've done it quite a few times when my pads are getting worn. Your throw on the lever will be shorter to hit the rotor as the pads starting position will move in closer to rotor.

Also free stroke adjust is a usable function on shimano but it is not bite point adjustment which it often gets mis-interpreted as.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

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Also free stroke adjust is a usable function on shimano but it is not bite point adjustment which it often gets mis-interpreted as.
Whats the difference between the 2 ?

to me they are simply different phrases to describe the same thing , moving the pads closer to the rotor in relation to the lever position.....
 

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Free stroke adjustment doesn't move the pads. It moves the resting position of lever piston closer to the transfer port between the reservoir and cylinder so it has less distance to travel until covers it. Until the lever piston covers that port, it only pushes fluid into the reservoir. After it covers it, it starts pushing fluid into the caliper.
 

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Free stroke adjustment doesn't move the pads. It moves the resting position of lever piston closer to the transfer port between the reservoir and cylinder so it has less distance to travel until covers it. Until the lever piston covers that port, it only pushes fluid into the reservoir. After it covers it, it starts pushing fluid into the caliper.
What lone said Also free stroke adjust is a pretty descriptive name for it, it is actually changing the amount of lever stroke prior to engaging the master cylinder at the lever. It does not impact the caliper in a resting state in anyway.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

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thanks for the explanations.

gonna try this on my slx levers as soon as the 2 prong anti tamper bit i ordered arrives.

like guy ford says , just need to top up the lever reservoir with screw backed out for the full benefits.

looking forward to full braking power with only 2mm of lever travel lol , fuk modulation :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi everyone,

Thank you for the replies. The diagram was very helpful penny k.

I got the bits and tried it out. Turns out I was able to easily replace the security screws with m4x12mm bolts.

When I screwed them in, I could watch them push on a small plastic lever under the brake lever. This seemed to change where the lever position was a small amount.

I then rebled the brakes, as I forgot to do so after shortening the hoses with the new build.

Turns out, after rebleeding, I cannot tell if the difference felt is because of the bleed or the free stroke adjustment. Probably the bleed made the most difference as there was a bit of air in the line and lever (probably from cutting the line). I bled the brakes with the free stroke about half way out. The idea being that if I bleed with the screw half way out then I might notice more of a difference with that adjustment based on there being more fluid in the line - not sure where I got that idea from though. Probably was rubbish. Most of the youtube videos on bleeding XT brakes say to turn the free stroke all the way in, so I probably fkd that one up.

So far though, the brakes work fine. Plenty of stopping power.

I may try the whole pull the wheel and pull the lever thing too if I find that I want the lever to engage a bit earlier. For now though, I might play with the free stroke adjust now that I have replaced the security screw with something more user friendly. Hopefully I won't have to rebleed it again, but if I must...
 

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For others considering this, you really don't have to buy the 2 prong bit. Just dremel a regular flat head bit instead. Takes maybe 60 seconds to do. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
True that, but I don't have a dremel. I would like to invest in one eventually though. But the bits were far cheaper, plus now no security bolt will ever stop me, mwahahahaha! I found a set that has nearly every type of security bit that I can think of for about $20.
 

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update :

pronged bit arrived today so i could experiment with the free stroke adjustment.

unscrewed bolt so 9 - 10mm of thread was showing ( bolt is around 12mm in total )

topped up lever reservoir with oil and squeezed lever several times to expel air , refitted filler cap then proceeded to screw in free stroke bolt all the way in.

measuring with a ruler before & after , lever travel to the point where pads are locked on rotor was reduced by 5mm.

so it makes a bit of difference , but not a massive game changer difference

similar to Koins' experience really

maybe a longer bolt would displace more fluid and reduce lever travel further still ?

anyways will test ride tmoz to see if theres any difference in general brake feel.
 

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maybe a longer bolt would displace more fluid and reduce lever travel further still ?
Careful, I read somewhere on the old SLX thread that someone broke the part that is pushed by the bolt because he used a bolt that was too big.
 

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to take advantage of the free stroke adjustment you must bleed the brakes with the free stroke screwed all the way out, NOT IN, but out.

Sorry to yell but really just want this confusion sorted for everyone.
I was about to say the same thing...I kept seeing repeats of the INCORRECT approach lol

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

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to take advantage of the free stroke adjustment you must bleed the brakes with the free stroke screwed all the way out...
Not true. This is a fundamental misunderstanding of how it works. Read my description of how it works. Where the free travel screw is when bleeding isn't relevant. If you bleed with the screw in, you'll wind up with a little less total fluid in the system, which will have no effect on free stroke or free travel.
 
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