I added that in the graphic for full disclosure.I like shimano for its Q factor, ease of parts and reliability. I like having everything shimano in one big group set. Doesn't need to be the most torquey. "Data produced by specialized " hmm. ?
Your motor overheated and protected itself. Almost all the motors do that if you climb a 4000 foot hill in full Boost/Turbo mode, for more than 30 minutes.I love the power delivery of the Bosch Performance CX, but I don't completely trust it after it gave me a 500 error code and shut down at the very top of a steep long climb the other day. I was in a hurry and cranked up in Turbo, so it was very hot at the top which probably had something to do with it. Once it threw that code it wouldn't do anything so all I could do was coast back down the hill until it cooled off which was disappointing.
Good info!!!While the Bosch system works well, the 2.5:1 gear multiplication has a lot of negatives. The chainrings are tiny and wear out quickly, they require a proprietary tool to install, and since Bosch doesn't actually make the cranks, they manufacturers can rip you off on proprietary chainring configurations. (Haibike does this, it is $140 for a single 16T chainring!). The wider Q-factor might be an issue for some, bu it doesn't bother me at all.
I'd like to try a Shimano system on an actual trail ride, I've only ridden them around parking lots. Obviously, they have the upper hand in system integration.
Yamaha works great, uses standard cranks (can be a double chainring setup as well), and seems to be a happy system for most people. The ones I have ridden have been kind of noisy, but worked great on the trail. I know a couple of people with Yamaha-powered commuter ebikes as well, and they love them.
The Specialized/Brose units I have ridden have been great, but ten years from now I predict a lot of whining when people with $10,000 eMTBs in mint condition can't get parts for them. Seriously, if a circuit board or internal gear goes out in 2028 for your 2018 Specialized, I'm guessing you'll be screwed unless you can find an old one to cannibalize. At least the Bosch/Yamaha/Shimano systems should be more plentiful and more easily fixed via a total replacement, from a donor if necessary.
Either end of the power and weight spectrum. The other motors listed are in the middle. Fazua is going for lightweight and removable, it's a slick system. Not many in the wild though, so we'll see how they do.Good point!!!!
What do you know about them?
Buy the Levo now.So if you had an ebike you were happy with, but were thinking of upgrading in the future, would you buy or wait a year?
Wait for sure. Look at what we have seen for the 2019 models. Larger batteries integrated for a sleek look, more motors coming out (Fazu, TQ) with differing qualities, lighter overall weight etc. This is predicated on your comment that you have an ebike that you are happy with, if you didn't have an ebike I'd say get one now.So if you had an ebike you were happy with, but were thinking of upgrading in the future, would you buy or wait a year?
Manufacturers bring what they want, so some will have their eBikes at the demo area, and some will not.Are eBikes available at outerbike or a separate ebike specific event?
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Not sure how you are climbing but a 44t chainring probably wouldn't work with my Shimano system and not just to sizing considerations, the motor works best with some rpm's applied. Trying to brute force low rpm climbing won't get the best torque out of the motor, look at the chart and see that most of the motors start to work best above 70 rpm. Of course if you are talking about a 44t rear sprocket then never mind what I've said.I've only tried the 500W Bafang as a conversion. At $379 it's rough around the edges but it works. It also is a cheap way to find out what I want and do not want in an e-bike and its motor. For those on a budget it does the job, but hub drives on trails are not nearly as fun; a mid-drive for sure in the future.
- power and torque: really depends on how much traction I can get on the rear wheel. You can have all the power you want, but if the rear wheel slips up a steep section none of that matters. I would only get more power if I got a + or fat bike with gobs of rear traction, in order to actually use that power up hills/mountains. Otherwise 500W is plenty.
- noise: my current setup is fine. I kind of like a little bit of hum just to make sure it's working when I'm coasting anyway.
- size and weight and form factor: current bike is 56 lbs and the inertia is huge. As above either I get a + or fat bike with 1000+W or I go down to XC in the 40-45 lb range with 250-500W. I cannot emphasize enough that I'd like a bike that can go up steep sections without issue. If the bike is lighter, then even if it's only 250W that may be better than 1000W and heavier without good traction.
- chainring size: 44t due to the climbing reasons above
- electronics and apps: don't care
- batteries and range 10-17 Ah is fine. 10 Ah if the battery is light, like 5-6 lbs, otherwise 13-17 Ah
- brand and support: don't care