Chiming in to say my Alfine 8 Speed (SG-7001-8 Disc) is still going strong after 10.000+ km's. It's on a touring/city bike that originally came with a Nexus 8-speed from 2017, but that one would sometimes slip half a pedal turn. I was never able to pinpoint the cause and the third time I opened it up I went to far with disassembly and un-seated the return-gear spring. This is kinda impossible to put back without specific knowledge/tools, so I ended up deciding to install the Alfine 8 speed and keep the Nexus 8 for spare parts. The Alfine has been in this same bike since and working great.
After 1000km I decided to remove all the Shimano grease and add Dexron VI ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Amount about 15ml, so there's always a little pool inside the hub. Switching gears became even quicker, but the hub also became a tiny bit noisier. My guess is the ATF was a bit on the thin side. After another 1000km I switched to Gearbox Oil Type: MPM Gearbox Oil Semi Synthetic API GL4/5 75W90. Amount also 15ml. This made the hub even quieter and gear change is still lightning quick. I think this is the better choice.
Note: From what I've read elsewhere: Avoid gearbox oil with a single GL5 type indication since that has supposedly additives that might react with certain metal parts. Another source argued however it only causes slight discoloration and only with high temperatures. Anyway, the mentioned oil should be safe for metal and for plastic as its been in my hub for 8.000km and counting.
Last week I opened the hub for inspection and everything looked absolutely pristine. Planetary gears, roller clutches, plastic ball bearing holders, the inside of the shell.. all looked like new. I even did a side by side comparison with some of the old Nexus 8 parts (with had less then 1000km) and I could not see or feel any difference! Picture shows left Alfine internal and right Nexus.
p.s
These parts are interchangeable, tried it.
The one thing to double check when re-assembling these hubs is to NOT over-tighten the nut that holds/clamps the internals into the hub shell. If you do, it will have a lot of drag because of extra pressure on the ball bearings and your back wheel will maybe only spin for a rotation or 2 when you give it a swing with your hand. Getting it just right is not hard though. Tighten the nut with your hand only and feel there's no wiggle/play in the axle. If done correctly your wheel will still free-spin at least 15 rotations.
I also put some ball bearing grease on the ball bearings left and right to stop any oil from leaking out. Also added some grease tot he big round plastic screw-on cap for anti-leak. And as others have mentioned: Gear shift cable calibration is critical. Get the marks aligned in 4th gear and re-check once in a while.
Although I don't climb up big mountains or do wild off-road MTB, I do stand on the pedals and even pull my steering for extra force when the green light shows and I generally go 30km/h and up. But with the proper attention I think this hub will do another 10.000km easily.
After 1000km I decided to remove all the Shimano grease and add Dexron VI ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Amount about 15ml, so there's always a little pool inside the hub. Switching gears became even quicker, but the hub also became a tiny bit noisier. My guess is the ATF was a bit on the thin side. After another 1000km I switched to Gearbox Oil Type: MPM Gearbox Oil Semi Synthetic API GL4/5 75W90. Amount also 15ml. This made the hub even quieter and gear change is still lightning quick. I think this is the better choice.
Note: From what I've read elsewhere: Avoid gearbox oil with a single GL5 type indication since that has supposedly additives that might react with certain metal parts. Another source argued however it only causes slight discoloration and only with high temperatures. Anyway, the mentioned oil should be safe for metal and for plastic as its been in my hub for 8.000km and counting.
Last week I opened the hub for inspection and everything looked absolutely pristine. Planetary gears, roller clutches, plastic ball bearing holders, the inside of the shell.. all looked like new. I even did a side by side comparison with some of the old Nexus 8 parts (with had less then 1000km) and I could not see or feel any difference! Picture shows left Alfine internal and right Nexus.
p.s
These parts are interchangeable, tried it.
The one thing to double check when re-assembling these hubs is to NOT over-tighten the nut that holds/clamps the internals into the hub shell. If you do, it will have a lot of drag because of extra pressure on the ball bearings and your back wheel will maybe only spin for a rotation or 2 when you give it a swing with your hand. Getting it just right is not hard though. Tighten the nut with your hand only and feel there's no wiggle/play in the axle. If done correctly your wheel will still free-spin at least 15 rotations.
I also put some ball bearing grease on the ball bearings left and right to stop any oil from leaking out. Also added some grease tot he big round plastic screw-on cap for anti-leak. And as others have mentioned: Gear shift cable calibration is critical. Get the marks aligned in 4th gear and re-check once in a while.
Although I don't climb up big mountains or do wild off-road MTB, I do stand on the pedals and even pull my steering for extra force when the green light shows and I generally go 30km/h and up. But with the proper attention I think this hub will do another 10.000km easily.
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