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The old shifter doesn't work at all. I played with it during our customers installs. (We had it in stock, i fiddled with it while waiting for shimano to send us the s7000 shifter)
This!

I am just replacing the S500 with S7000 and tried to re-use the old lever, cable and the inner cable fixing bolt. Comapring to 500 series I have found that:
1) The bolt is different (cable within the bolt is routed differently) - probably due to the fact that the cable is routed from the top
2) The distance between cable stop and cable bolt is different (145 mm vs 101 mm according to the spec)

However I am somehow having the troubles to have the gears adjusted properly - the recommended 145 mm does not seem to work in my setup. :confused:

How did you guys install the bolt with your S7000 hubs? Did you take some measurements (as recommended by SH spec) or did you experiment the correct bolt position?
 

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A God Without A Name
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We don't have the cable length tool yet, S I just aligned the yellow marks, put the cable and nut in position without tightening it down. marked position with a sharpie, removed it. tightened the nut down, and then did my final adjustment of the cable.

then I ran it through the gears, checked adjustment, test rode, checked again. and was done.

It's not the most efficient way to do it. but it worked.
 

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Is there a cable length tool? I just measured with whatever I had. Actually, I measured out the distance on an old spoke and cut the spoke to length. Now that spoke is in my tool pouch so I can use it to hold the spring-loaded shift mechanism in a position to give me enough cable slack to remove the cable bolt, and, if necessary, use it to measure out the cable length if I should have to replace the cable.
 

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The tool is only really necessary in a production environment (ie: a shop). Otherwise, a good machinist's rule and a few turns of the barrel adjuster will get you there. Follow the instructions for length in the manual for the cassette joint/hub.
 

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A God Without A Name
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The tool is not really necessary in a production environment (ie: a shop). But it sure as hell is handy.

The dust cap wrench, that thing is worth it.
 

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I'm disappointed they still quote a chainline of 41.8mm.

I hoped that with the move to fatter tyres there would be some change in this to around 48-50mm.
 

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A God Without A Name
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The "move" is for mountain bikes. And it's a move that rots on our sales floor. Never, ever, ever selling.

I think, since this is an "Urban/Commuter" hub, That shimano doesn't care to accommodate the three guys every year who want to put this hub on a Krampus.

Now, we all know it works perfectly on a mountain bike. But modifying a niche product to work for an opposite niche product leaves you with a very limited Venn diagram of interested customers.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
True ! So that's why it's so hard for us to build our dream bike :-(

@Velobike: I mounted it on my Motobecane 29+ SS. No problems with the 3" tires.
Not sure if it will be possible to had a chaincase though.

One interesting thing is that Rohloff built the speedhub XL for fatties so I guess they thought about it before doing it. So I guess there is a market develloping for this.
I think all hubs are not all very sturdy so annoucing it for mountain biking could be risky.

Also, Shimano does their hubs for 32 and 36 spokes. To me it means it is for standard and MTB wheels, but I could be wrong on that. Look at Sturmey-Archer who does only 36 holes versions (that's my main rant, I mean MTB rims only in 32 holes version).
 

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This is where I most recently found info about the shifters: CTC Forum ? View topic - Alfine 8 query

They did some measuring of cable pull to confirm that it should work in both directions. Not sure if anyone is actually running that set-up, though. Apart from the case where you wanted to swap out wheels, there's really not much need, I guess. Just find the shifter that matches your hub.
Can someone please confirm with real world experience whether or not a Nexus Revo Shifter will work with the Alfine S7000-8 hub? I'm not loving the reversed shifting and am looking for alternatives.

Thanks!
 

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My Alfine sg-s7000 is still working flawlessly. So is my sg-s 501. Both hubs are smooth shifting and quiet running. The sg-s 7000 feels just a tad quicker.
Swapping from one bike to another, I have to remember which bike I'm on at first, but I quickly get into instinctively shifting correctly after a few gear changes. Its just takes a little presence of mind at first.
My older sg-s 500 is also quiet and smooth running, but it suffers from that infamous lag/drag after a shift.

I'm still messing around with input gear ratios, trying to find the one which is optimal for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hi guys,

Just to let you know my SG-S7000 still works :)
It's getting around 5000kms and it got through the Montreal winter outside everyday.
Since I installed slick tires for summer I can feel a little grinding in 4th gear.
I'll try to do an oil bath soon to check if it improves anything.

I still don't like the top-down gears and the trigger shifter, this will be something I will check in the future if I'm going to buy a new hub.
Trigger is too slow to change a couple of gear at once.
Top down gears are sticky when I need an easier gear on uphill (not sure if it is top down or the downshifting mechanism).

Also center-lock is not very good if you don't have Shimano gears.
What I mean is a proper center-lock rotor and fixing ring.
It's a shame Shimano don't give center-lock ring with the hub.
I was coming from a six bolt rotor and had to buy an adaptor, I think it was from reverse.
Eventually the lock ring came loose, the six bolt on the adaptor prevented the ring getting screwed all the way. It sheared the lock ring and the rotor was loose (but it still worked as the caliper prevented the rotor from falling off.
I found an used Shimano lock-ring but I didn't had the special tool to screw it.
So I used a wrench and it is still holding after a couple month.

Bottom line, I didn't liked the proprietary design :-/
 

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Centerlock on its own is sweet. Centerlock with adapters can be really really bad for a number of reasons -- IF you buy the wrong adapter. Which one did you get? Was it the Problem Solvers adapter? They generally make good products but their Centerlock adapter doesn't embrace the way Centerlock is really designed. Unfortunately this means you should get the more expensive adapter from Shimano. It's supposed to be a flange sort of design, and some of the adapters treat it as a C-clip design, which causes disc rotor warp.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
As I said I think it's reverse brand.
You are correct about adaptor but the new part I have is Shimano and it's not better (apart from the metal quality).
The problem is the protruding bolts to secure the six bolt rotor.
I think it is flange sort but I'll try to post a picture.

Anyway, it's not critical since I have two brakes, but being forced to use something non standard with no easy replacement feels bad.

Another good point for Sturmey Archer / Rohloff :)
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Update: now more than 14000km on this hub. 4000km on a loaded bike trip on the trans Canada trail which can be quite rough in some provinces. I am now using it for mountain biking in British Columbia. I would welcome more low gear for climbing but only for the steepest hills.
Recently bought an old Nexus SG8R31 and now I can feel the difference in drag while pedaling (SG-S7000 better).
DSCN4052.jpg
 

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Hey Gorman,
I'm MTBing a 7001-8 on Vancouver Island. Your hub internals look really really clean. I had mine serviced, then I pulled mine apart after 2 rides on some local singletrack and the drive side bearing cage grease was turning brown. I did clean it out and regrease the hub. I'm wondering if the guy I paid to service the hub did a crap job. The hub seems to make a little more noise than it should when it freewheels. It's also below zero so I'm wondering if it's the grease getting solid and the roller clutch doesn't like that . I was thinking of putting some kind ATF or alfine 11 oil in it next time I service it.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Hey Nube,
Nice to know you're using that hub too !
It's hard to know what happened since it's not rocket science, I do know that i take my time putting grease in every spot I think water may enter.
Shops have to be profitable so they can't take as much time to service everything.
Also the air might be more salty on the Island than on the mainland.

I thought the same about grease in winter although I never heard any difference.
Maybe using some winter grease ? Don't know is that even exist.
You don't do an oil bath when you service your hub ?

I plunge mine in ATF and spin it a few time so oil penetrate better. I then let it stay for an hour so heavy particles would go at the bottom.
I then put it on the side for a few hours so the excess oil sips out.
Last step is putting a bit of grease on cogs on putting everything back together with grease on threads and contact areas.
 

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Well, this was the first time it was serviced and the shop that serviced it had told me that they had dipped it. So I didn't bother with it. I did clean and grease it up really well, especially around the external bearings as I don't like the idea of water getting in. It's just dumped a ton of snow here so I don't think I'll be riding it for a while so I might just pull it apart again and give it another dip. The other problem I had was trying to separate the planetary carrier from the axle. The 7001 is in 8th gear with no cable tension so I'm assuming the 3rd planetary pauls were extended and catching on the carrier. I did get some extra grease inside the planetary cage though, just for good measure.
 
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