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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a customer with bad small bump complience on a lefty 2.0.
Does someone has some info about shim setup on a lefty 2.0 ?
Which shims are in a hard and soft setup, and maybe a liniar curve of what they do. Thickness and sizes
Will be much appiciated, cannot find much on the internet.
 

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Ridin' dirty!
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Did you try different weights of oil first? I switched to Spectro 2.5, and it made a huge difference from 5W I had in there before. Just an idea, as responses on this forum are rather slow......


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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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Send it to Cannondale.

Let them deal with their designed obsolescence garbage.

You can't change bearing preload any longer, which is likely the culprit. I see a lot come through with crazy high preload. No surprise considering it's now done by minimally paid wage slaves in China.

Unless you have access to all parts, doubtful you can get your hands on a low speed compression check valve tuning kit, but that'll soften up low speed firmness, too.

I'd also suggest removing most or all of the volume reduction, that'll reduce the firmness Cannondale seems to think everyone wants. Takes two minutes, makes a HUGE difference.

Best advice? Don't work on stuff you don't know inside and out. I fix other shops botched Cannondale work all day long, and it sucks. 88+ is in the EU, and the place Cannondale blessed to work on their junk, have them deal with it.

Cannondale sucks. They didn't used to, but boy, they sure do now.
 

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Ridin' dirty!
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Send it to Cannondale.

Let them deal with their designed obsolescence garbage.

You can't change bearing preload any longer, which is likely the culprit. I see a lot come through with crazy high preload. No surprise considering it's now done by minimally paid wage slaves in China.

Unless you have access to all parts, doubtful you can get your hands on a low speed compression check valve tuning kit, but that'll soften up low speed firmness, too.

I'd also suggest removing most or all of the volume reduction, that'll reduce the firmness Cannondale seems to think everyone wants. Takes two minutes, makes a HUGE difference.

Best advice? Don't work on stuff you don't know inside and out. I fix other shops botched Cannondale work all day long, and it sucks. 88+ is in the EU, and the place Cannondale blessed to work on their junk, have them deal with it.

Cannondale sucks. They didn't used to, but boy, they sure do now.
Damn man. Sounds like you didn’t have enough coffee today....


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Ridin' dirty!
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This might help.



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Send it to Cannondale.

Let them deal with their designed obsolescence garbage.

You can't change bearing preload any longer, which is likely the culprit. I see a lot come through with crazy high preload. No surprise considering it's now done by minimally paid wage slaves in China.

Unless you have access to all parts, doubtful you can get your hands on a low speed compression check valve tuning kit, but that'll soften up low speed firmness, too.

I'd also suggest removing most or all of the volume reduction, that'll reduce the firmness Cannondale seems to think everyone wants. Takes two minutes, makes a HUGE difference.

Best advice? Don't work on stuff you don't know inside and out. I fix other shops botched Cannondale work all day long, and it sucks. 88+ is in the EU, and the place Cannondale blessed to work on their junk, have them deal with it.

Cannondale sucks. They didn't used to, but boy, they sure do now.
Is there a pointer to the instructions to remove the volume reducers?
 

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Put many trail miles on a 2016 FSI with a Lefty 2.0. Mine required the Lefty 2S upgrade to work properly. After the 2S mod and removing about 1/2 of the volume spacer, small bump compliance was much improved over stock. I was then able to see near full travel on most rides with very few resets ,using the the Cannondale recommended PSI for my weight. When I replaced the bike I had to move away from Cannondale and the Lefty after many years of being a diehard Cannondale customer.
 

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do I have one piece less?

Hi guys! I was about to write a new thread when I saw this. I am trying to understand why the suspension extends so quickly, and after excluding all other causes, I have decided to open the dumper. In the images, which I hope I have attached correctly, I only found the rebound stack and I'm wondering ... Where is the compression stack? It's normal?

The pictures shown a lefty 2.0 - 27.5 - 2016

I'm not going back to my lbs ... I don't trust him anymore...

Thanks in advance for your help guys!
 

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you're missing your shim stack on top of your piston. it kind of looks like you've got them all stacked on the bottom of the piston...
 

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you're missing your shim stack on top of your piston. it kind of looks like you've got them all stacked on the bottom of the piston...
Cool. Straight answer without any of the “new Lefties suck, replace with a Rockshox” bs like from our other experts.


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I believe so too ... does anyone know where I can buy them? I searched the web without success.
Did your bike shop opened up your fork and slapped it back together like this?


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damn hurry ... I think it's the exact opposite! The finer and smaller in diameter shims go on the rebound side and the thicker and wider ones on the compression side. The only one that I guessed right, it is the one with a diameter of 20mm that must necessarily go on the rebound side to plug the large grooves.

In the configuration that a I've posted before, I can't set any difference increasing or decreasing the rebound knob.


Now I'm trying to study and understand this helpful article:
Valve Shims - SUSPENSION TUNING SECRETS!
 

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After studing a lot of material about forks suspensions and so on, I've done for me the following scheme at my own risk.

Please NOTE: All measures are metric in mm, the shims were all of the same thickness 0.10 except for the ring shim that is 0.20.

REBOUND SIDE - from the piston out:
Ø20-Ø16-Ø12

COMPRESSION SIDE - from the piston out:
Ø18-Ø16+ring shim Ø16/Ø18 -Ø18-Ø14

The reason of this setup is explained in the following documents. One of the most important is the Ohlins one:

https://www.shimrestackor.com

On shimstackor.com, in the sample app section, you will find a lot of examples about how and why damper are made this way (with shim stack) and why a preload ring shim is used

https://www.ohlinsusa.com/files/files/Inside_TT44_Manual_p1.pdf chap. 5. Internal adjustments page 14 USEFULL!

Welcome! - SUSPENSION TUNING SECRETS! a nice description on how a damper works.

Hope it will help you too!

It's a sunny afternoon in Rome... let's get out for a test ride!

Edit.: For some reason link to shimstackor doesn't work. I've edit to point you there manually.
 

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Let us know how your test ride went!


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