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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I know the #1 method people use to get the correct rebound for the fork is to compress the fork and release suddenly to see if the front wheel hops off the ground. I am wondering how accurate of a test this is?

The reason I ask is because I have extremely light components on my bike, would that not make the wheel hop a lot easier when using this method? Im guessing the front end of my bike is 2-3 lbs lighter then the average bike that would be using a fox 34. I am running a fox 34 step cast on my 21lbs scott spark rc 900. When i adjust the rebound using this method its about 2-3 clicks slower then what the sticker on the fork recommends, when i use the recommended on the sticker the wheel hops off the ground pretty easily

Also wondering if foxes recommended settings are with no volume spacers or with the default volume spacers? they don't explain this anywhere and it makes a MASSIVE difference, not only that but on foxes website they have specific air and rebound settings for the fox 34 step cast, but it doesn't match the sticker on my 34 step cast fork which even says 34 step cast on the sticker..... how the heck do you screw up like that? c'mon fox
 

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any "recommended" settings are simply meant to be starting points. Every bike and every rider is going to be different, and if you're really particular about your suspension settings, you might end up choosing different settings for different trails, even.

If you don't like the recommended settings, then adjust from there until you do like it. It's not Fox's or anyone else's failure that their recommendations don't match exactly what you like. It just means you prefer something a little different.

Good suspension setup isn't a 5 minute job, either. It might take you 5min to set it up initially, but you need to experiment with it. You should try settings that you know you won't like so you can bracket your preferred setting. Take the time to narrow it down. Further, there's no one way. The bounce method you describe isn't even necessarily the best way to decide on the rebound setting. It's just a static check. Optimal settings will be different for hauling ass down a chattery downhill vs. a trail that's smoother, with larger, more widely spaced discrete hits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
any "recommended" settings are simply meant to be starting points. Every bike and every rider is going to be different, and if you're really particular about your suspension settings, you might end up choosing different settings for different trails, even.

If you don't like the recommended settings, then adjust from there until you do like it. It's not Fox's or anyone else's failure that their recommendations don't match exactly what you like. It just means you prefer something a little different.

Good suspension setup isn't a 5 minute job, either. It might take you 5min to set it up initially, but you need to experiment with it. You should try settings that you know you won't like so you can bracket your preferred setting. Take the time to narrow it down. Further, there's no one way. The bounce method you describe isn't even necessarily the best way to decide on the rebound setting. It's just a static check. Optimal settings will be different for hauling ass down a chattery downhill vs. a trail that's smoother, with larger, more widely spaced discrete hits.
Thanks for the info, I increased the speed of my rebound and I will go for a ride later to see the verdict, I know its all about setting it up by testing on the trail but I am somebody just trying to dial my suspension as good as it gets. In the past i been using the bounce method and honestly I feel its wrong, I feel my suspensions packs up when i hit a bunch of roots fast, also when I hit jumps I noticed the rear end just does not come up..... sometimes my feet come off the pedals because my pedals do not come up with me in the jump, im thinking the rebound is just too slow but I guess the only real way to properly set up suspension is by riding and constantly changing things, the base settings are pretty much worthless don't even bother with them, they just throw you off more then anything when you see you are using completely different psi and rebound settings from the "experts" recommendations. Also the bounce method is kind of useless as well because it all depends on the weight of your bike and if you are compressing and releasing the handlebars properly

What was bugging me about their recommended default settings is their website and the sticker on the fork and COMPLETELY different, that's the biggest problem and both of them are WAY off from what should really be used if you ask me but i guess if you are a power newb it can help a bit :)
 

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Yeah. You really just have to try things, learn how things work and what you prefer. What works best depends on your riding and the conditions, and will change as you gain more or different experience.

Pro enduro and DH riders do a lot of suspension testing with their mechanics often using instrumentation on the bike measure suspension performance. The mechanics don't set up the suspension and tell the riders that this is best, or it is what is supposed to be. They send the riders out to see if the setting are working for the rider and to get input from the rider on what changes to make. The instrumentation allows them to characterize and keep track of what works for that rider in various conditions and to get initial setups closer, but the rider is the final arbiter.
 

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Wouldn't you want to slow your rebound if the bike is light? More rebound seems likely to launch a light bike upward with more easy.

I think if you adjust to your likely you'll be fine, but seems like you would want to slow it a click or two before making it faster.
Slower means screwing in the rebound know (so we're speaking the same language).
 

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I could see slowing the front on a lighter short travel bike. With less travel it’s more important to avoid packing. A light weight twitchy XC rig can get sketchy if you’re riding in the travel too much. I’d parking lot set it as fast as you can handle and slow it down as necessary on the trail.

The bounce test gives you some indication how fast or slow the rebound is, but it’s not how you tune rebound.
 

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How much do you weight, and have you determined if there are already reducers in fork? And actually, measuring rebound would be how quickly (frequency) the fork extends after a hit. My baseline for setting rebound is counting off the total number of "clicks" and setting it and compression half way..ie: 5 of 10 or 6 of 12 clicks and then adjusting the rebounds frequency faster or slower as needed after seeing how fast the fork extends after a hit on the trail.
 

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Just for another data point, the wheel hop test has proven pretty accurate for my Yari. Both times I did it, once when new and once after servicing, my final setting after ride testing has been within a click or two of what the hop test came up with.

The hop test works a little better with someone else watching, BTW. It's hard to see when it leaves the ground when you're over the stem pressing down.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

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I'm still figuring this out. I think the best way is to set it initially however, but then go bracket it. I need to find a gnarly section here in San Diego that I can walk back and forth.

One style of drop that always gets me is the steep downhill stair-step rocky sections. It's one thing if the section is rocky consistently. But we'll have very close but stair-steppy rocky sections that always gives me fits. Not sure how to set my suspension up or technique for that. For those around here, this is like Martha's Grove after the first climb.

Thinking I need to go and bracket it like Jordi Cortes says in the Dialed series.

Jordi Cortes


 
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