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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I followed the directions in the sticky thread, but I cant get the lower axle to release. I have hit this thing hard and its not moving, im a little confused, I was hoping this would be a piece of cake. Anyone have any good suggestions? Im out of ideas :mad:
 

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the problem is that when you hit the pivot with a punch it causes the end of the pivot to bur a little. If you can get it through the first bearing you are ok. You can use the cap bolt if the punch isnt working. Once you get the axle through the swing arm dont try to hit it all the way through. If you do you will break the 609 loctite seal on the bearing and the bearing will come out with the axle. The trick is to free the swing arm, then with the arm out of the way tap the axle back through enough to see the end. Now you can sand the burs off the end and it should go through the bearing no problem. As for the bearings you can just pop of the dust caps,spray them with wd40, wipe off excess and then lube with an aproved lube. I use slick honey on my pivots and bearings and it works great. You can also use ant-sieze compound on the pivots to increase longevity.Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Sugar, but I have tried to use the dust cap bolt and nothing. It feels solid, just completely stuck. Im hoping that no lock tight got on the axle. I need to bring it to my lbs and see if they can free it. It really shouldn't be this hard to remove.
 

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I had the same issue when I rebuilt mine. I went with a bigger hammer and bigger punch, then I layed the frame on the floor (with some wooden blocks at key areas for support) and went to town. The axles did come out eventually, one came out with one of the bearing attached which was a bit of a nightmare. So then I rebuilt it with the new pro-pack, I coated everything in Noseize and the rebuilds have gotten much easier. Good luck.
 

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Ridge_Rider said:
I had the same issue when I rebuilt mine. I went with a bigger hammer and bigger punch, then I layed the frame on the floor (with some wooden blocks at key areas for support) and went to town. The axles did come out eventually, one came out with one of the bearing attached which was a bit of a nightmare. So then I rebuilt it with the new pro-pack, I coated everything in Noseize and the rebuilds have gotten much easier. Good luck.
That;s EXACTLY what I did, my axles were toast too.
 

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Had the same problem with my Superlight pivot bolt. I whacked on it with a hammer for about 2 hours before taking it to the LBS. They got it out and told me "we must have just hit it harder than you did". Rebuilt it with new bolts and bearings and noseize. Hopefully the next rebuild won't require so much hammering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OhSchitt said:
you can use a large clamp, us like a large deep socket at one end and use a small bolt on the other, and try to "press" it out.

If that didn't make sense, let me know, but i've gotten some stuff that was "really stuck" out that way.
Ohschitt that sounds like a good idea, im not really comfortable whacking at it with a bigger hammer, maybe pressing is the way to go.
 

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You guys are spelling out my nightmares. If you are having so much trouble with this it would be best to let a shop get at it who have done this a few times before (not just joe blow with a couple bolts and nuts and no bearing press kit/santa cruz overhaul instructions), and or bite the bullet and get a pro pack then knock that crap out.
 

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TNC said:
Maybe utilize a c-clamp and a tool socket?
I tried this and also tried using an Arbor press, both didn't work. The hammer and punch were my last ditch effort which worked. I already had a pro-pack, so at that point my only concern was getting the axles out, I could have cared less about saving them or the bearings. It was a good lesson about the merits of regular service and the use of anti seize.
 

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noMAD man
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RR, I know what you mean about not needing to worry about saving parts you know that you're going to replace, but my only concern is potential damage done to the frame/swingarm when removal is occurring. This whole thread brings up that issue that I've mentioned before. I think SC should have used steel pivot axles at those two locations. Antiseize would still be a staple for easy installation and removal, but this galling would not occur IMO. That said, I haven't had any issues on my alloy pivot axles on my Nomad as long as antiseize is used. I'm running the original axles that are over 2.5 years old, and they've only been treated with antiseize twice...once when new and back in April '07.
 

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TNC said:
RR, I know what you mean about not needing to worry about saving parts you know that you're going to replace, but my only concern is potential damage done to the frame/swingarm when removal is occurring. This whole thread brings up that issue that I've mentioned before. I think SC should have used steel pivot axles at those two locations. Antiseize would still be a staple for easy installation and removal, but this galling would not occur IMO. That said, I haven't had any issues on my alloy pivot axles on my Nomad as long as antiseize is used. I'm running the original axles that are over 2.5 years old, and they've only been treated with antiseize twice...once when new and back in April '07.
Yeah, I definitely see your point and I was also very nervous about hammering my frame. Stripping the frame bare, laying it on a solid surface and placing wooden blocks in key locations really did help alleviate most of my concerns. Once the frame was properly supported, it only took a few hits to free them up which was comforting. Had I followed SC regular maintenance adivce this could have been avoided, the bearings fused to the axles because they were left untouched for over a season. So it was a good lesson - I have since pulled the axles out on regular basis with zero problems and your recomendation of Antiseize has been one of the BEST tips hands down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry for the delay...I ended up hitting harder! I just wound up and cracked it good. I was scared but it all turned out okay. Thanks to everyone's responses and great ideas, I appreciate all the detail. cheers
 

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modelo151 said:
Sorry for the delay...I ended up hitting harder! I just wound up and cracked it good. I was scared but it all turned out okay. Thanks to everyone's responses and great ideas, I appreciate all the detail. cheers
Yeah, scared the hell out of me when i did it too, but all ended well.

Nowadays I sleep with antiseize under my pillow, jut in case.
 

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noMAD man
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It's not really important on a real specific brand of antiseize. The difference in "most" of them is usually a result of the temperature levels at which they'll be effective...not a big deal for what we're using it for here. That said, just about any antiseize that you can get at most automotive stores will be suitable for this application. You could probably find an antiseize of some exotic blend or compound that might not be as suitable, but I think you'd really have to seek it out. This stuff works great.
 

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