Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a rize 3 back in may, the bike is by far the best bike i've ever ridden or owned, exceptional on climbs & decents, love the lefty fork too, very stiff & very plush too, however, a couple months ago, I noticed that the fork was stuck about 1/2 an inch the the travel, so I took it in the LBS where I bought it, the guy there was able to service it & told me that there was oil in the main chamber & thats what causes it to stick, I got the bike back & after about 20 or so more rides its doing it again!, i took it in again to get fixed, hopefully its the same thing and they can fix it quickly, I was just wondering if any of you other rize owners are experiencing the same thing with your fork, I hope this isn't going to be a reoccuring thing. any input guys?
 

·
I Love my Rize
Joined
·
830 Posts
Sounds like ya needed a bearing reset. Learn to do it yourself it takes less than 5 minutes to do. the only tool you need is a shimano outboard bb tool and a shock pump. If you ride over really sharp and abrupt bumps like big roots and rocks at speed the bearings need resetting more often. I think he's bullsh.....you on the cause.
 

·
I Love my Rize
Joined
·
830 Posts
Here ya go

Even a caveman could do it

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Just reset mine yesterday(PBR alloy 130)..........easy as pie, took about 2 minutes and I never did one before. All you need is a shock pump, Shimano hollowtech bottom bracket tool, tape measure,grease (just a little needed) I reset it with the bike on the Saris bones trunk rack on my car as I could strap the bike in when I whacked the front fork down. I leave the wheel on as it is easier. The first thing you do is let ALL the air out of the fork, then unscrew the top cap with the shimano hollowtech bb tool then raise the tire up to move the fork up a little and then remove the two split rings and little poly washer and put them in a safe place until I reassemble. I will then bring the wheel all the way up and whack it back down a few time and you will see the rebound knob start to sink into the tube once the bearings start resetting. measure the bottom of the fork to the top of the tube. It should measure between 720 mm to 730 mm ( 28.350 to 28.740) fully extended. You will hear the difference when it's reset mostly, kinda a solid bottom out as opposed to a hollow clunk. Once you get that put a little grease in the split ring grooves and put you rings back on noting the marked top of the split ring then put your little poly washer back on and screw on your top cap and torque down to tight, then re-air and blammo all done. Like I said even a caveman could do it....note no offense to cavemen.
__________________
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top