Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,707 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm doing a double Regina XP-G for a friend of mine and decided that mine runs so dang cool...I may as well lose some mass. Similar diameter, shorter barrels, a little more bored out tail end. Gonna round the top of the mount off for aesthetics.

Much lighter...a few cosmetic touches to sort out, but I'm happy with it so far.




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,707 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I believe it's a sealed unit. I'll check when I get home. Anything can be altered though, right? Heck man...it's only $5. You could always try to open it with a hot knife and epoxy it back together. Machine or sand it flat again...and you're good to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts


I'm also building a double regina.

That switch looks nice, but shipping costs to Europe are just "#$$% ....

You are using snap rings to close the light, how do you make it water resistant?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,707 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
LOL! I only run one pair at a time, hahaha.

No more snap rings. The first double barrel Regina traded snap rings for O-Rings. On that one, I have an O-ring on top of the reflector with some silicone around it sealing it. Then I have the lens. Then I squirted some more silicone in the snap ring groove and mashed an O-Ring in there. The pressure from the guts pushes the O-ring harder into the groove...but the Silicone is a "fail safe" just in case.

This second build will be done the same way I think. It looks much better IMO...and the extra seal with 1 more O-ring + the silicone just gives me a little peace of mind.

See this picture...O-rings and silicone retain the guts:



Originally though...I did plan to use a snap ring.


Either way it was sealed b/c the pressure from the snap ring pushed against the O-ring which caused it to spread out against the lens and housing making it water resistant.

I also use silicone around the wire exit holes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
So it's a o-ring behind the snap ring or just the o-ring with the silicone... that means that I must be very precise with the snap ring grove placement... humm..

tks chelboed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,707 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There is no snap ring...snap ring go bye-bye. Now it's an O-ring before and after the lens. Please read the captions and don't just look at the pictures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
I did read the captions, was just mentioning my options based on what you did and mumbling about how precise the placement of the grove must be.

tks again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,707 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
bravellir said:
I did read the captions, was just mentioning my options based on what you did and mumbling about how precise the placement of the grove must be.

tks again
Ahhh...I get it.:thumbsup:

It doesn't need to be "that" precise. I think if you get within .25-.5mm...you can rely on the compression of the O-ring to pick up some slack.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Very nice revision Chelboed. It just keeps getting betterer and betterer! :thumbsup:

Can I ask what the OD is on this new version and if you don't mind, what wall thickness do you have in the LED board/reflector area of the light ... ignoring any groves you've cut for O-rings.

Where these dimensions derived from the LED board diameter and also the availability of a suitable cover glass and O-rings? Or did you set the dimensions from the diameter of the Regina and then found suitable glass and rings? Only asking to understand what's important in designing such a neat housing.

Cheers, Bobblehat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,707 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OD is approx 24mm...I may try to go smaller. Wall thickness between 1-2mm. I started with the diameter of the Regina...19mm. I got the Xp-G's on 20mm stars, so I machined the star down to 19mm.

Glass is 20mm watch crystal. O-rigs are 20mm GITD inners and 21mm black outers.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top