29er for life!!
JUst wondering guys my seatpost/saddle is just a lil bit higher up then my handlebars...does that make any diffrence? Or does the saddle need to be leval with my handlebars?Thanks alot:thumbsup:
Agreed....This method will put you in the ball park but be sure to set this height with your cycling shoes on and not street shoes or sneakers.Gasp4Air said:Funny, just posted this on another thread about a guy with knee pain. A standard method of determining seat height: set it so your leg is fully extended when the pedal is at 6 o'clock with your heel on the pedal. At this setting, your knee should be slightly bent when the ball of your foot is on the pedal at the same 6 o'clock position.
This is generally considered the optimal setting for seated pedaling efficiency. Many riders lower the seat for technical or downhill sections, trading some pedaling efficiency for a lower center of gravity while seated. Use it as a starting point.
So, if you seat height is good, then to your question: While many riders (including me) keep their handlebar grips about level with the top of the saddle, there's no requirement for it to be so. If you're comfortable, especially while descending, then that's all that matters. If you're curious, try a riser bar or a stem with more angle and see if you like it better.
+1 on this advice. Just experiment a little to fine tune for comfort. Most of my saddles end up being level or an 1/8" up tilt or down tilt. It depends on the bike and or the brand of saddle.AndrwSwitch said:I don't know. But I'll tell you how I figure it out.
If the saddle is tipped forward too much, I slide forward on it and get a turbo-wedgie. If it's tipped back too much, it puts pressure on my taint. Neither of these situations is okay with me. .
Start with it level and ride it for a while. Usually having the saddle tipped forward will result in a slow forward slide as you are riding. You'll end up pushing yourself back against the bars all the time. Not a good thing. A rearward tip will produce the oposite effect (obviously) and have the nose of the saddle pushing into the soft tissues of you nether regions as the others have noted. This is also not a good thing, both for your comfort and any future off spring you may be planning on.NCMt.Biker said:Ok since i have my saddle higher up then my handlebars...should i have my saddle leval or tipped forward a bit or tipped back..or does that matter?Thanks for the help guys
Reminds me of this thread:gradeAfailure said:Easiest way I've heard of determining roughly where your optimum saddle height for pedalling efficiency should be is to measure your inside leg and subtract 4". Put the top of the saddle that distance from the centre of the crank. Works for me: inside leg 33", top of saddle 29" from centre of crank. For general offroad stuff where I'm not going to be seated much I'll run it 2-3" lower than that though to give me room to move about, but it's a good starting point.
I actually use this to rough in my saddles. I find I'm better if it's a fully locked knee, and minimal pressure at the heel. But it's fairly dependent on how built up your shoes are at the forefoot vs. heel, if you pedal toes-down, foot length, all the usual caveats.gradeAfailure said:Another way - sit on the saddle, put your heel on the pedal, over the spindle. At max saddle height your leg will be pretty much straight but not locked out. Hence, when you put the ball of your foot on the spindle you'll have the correct knee bend.
A very small change in seat angle can make a huge difference.bigbeck said:Just experiment a little to fine tune for comfort. Most of my saddles end up being level or an 1/8" up tilt or down tilt. It depends on the bike and or the brand of saddle.
If it's tilted down a hair too much I find I'm always sliding forward and pushing myself back which often causes a little hand or wrist pain if I keep riding like that. If it's tilted up a hair too much, it only takes about 10 pedal strokes to feel discomfort.