I'm happy with mine. seems to work well and wear seems similar to a steel rotor. I've had mine for about 3 months and 1400 miles.
worth the money to me.
worth the money to me.
SCRUB rotors - how do you like them?
I had heard about these a while back, but not much lately, then I found their website www.scrubcomponents.com and I'm assuming at $150 to $165 a rotor that is probably the reason why you don't hear much.
At only 56 grams for a 160 they are darn light...
My Questions:
How well do they work?
How long have you had them?
Stopping power?
Wear resistance?
Other comments?
Thanks and Happy New Year!
At only 56 grams for a 160 they are darn light...
My Questions:
How well do they work?
How long have you had them?
Stopping power?
Wear resistance?
Other comments?
Thanks and Happy New Year!
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
I realy like mine. Good power and excelent modulation.
Light and nice shape.
Make sure you follow the Scrub instructions for initial period and be prepared for very weak and maybe noisy first Kms, with time and after all contact area is covered with dust they start performing the best and no noise (unless they are wet). You need a complete black layer on rotor.
Make sure you use them with Kool-Stop organic pads, for me this is the team, Scrub & Kool-Stop.
Others I tried did not work.
Light and nice shape.
Make sure you follow the Scrub instructions for initial period and be prepared for very weak and maybe noisy first Kms, with time and after all contact area is covered with dust they start performing the best and no noise (unless they are wet). You need a complete black layer on rotor.
Make sure you use them with Kool-Stop organic pads, for me this is the team, Scrub & Kool-Stop.
Others I tried did not work.
I like mine, front and rear, will buy them again when these wear out. The kool-stops work well with them.
A buddy of mine has them. If it's dry I can say they are, at best, ok. If it's slightly wet: useless! This is 160/140 with Formula R1.
For racing you can ride much faster if you have brakes you can trust everywhere/anytime!
For racing you can ride much faster if you have brakes you can trust everywhere/anytime!
does he have the correct pads? Have they been bed in properly?Buoyen said:A buddy of mine has them. If it's dry I can say they are, at best, ok. If it's slightly wet: useless! This is 160/140 with Formula R1.
For racing you can ride much faster if you have brakes you can trust everywhere/anytime!
your review is pointless unless you have plenty of time on them to give an honest review
Yes, I think he has the Kool stop pads. Should be good enough?
I raced a 75km 5 1/4 hr event with approx. 8,000' of climbing and about 7,000' + of descending with these rotors (160/140) and R1 brakes with Kool Stop pads, and some of it was wet. I had no trouble at all, and my race weight was about 87kg. When they were wet, they squealed like a banshee, and the braking power was slightly reduced, but otherwise, they were fine.
That's odd. Maybe we have to check this setup again then..
They work decent, not as much power as a stainless rotor. For sure you can feel the weight difference as you accelerate though...
I've been using mine for about a year and a half and my thoughts echo what others have said - in the wet, they scream. When they get hot, they scream. Now that I'm using them in the winter, they are fantastic - silent and powerful.
180mm & 160mm? Or 160mm & 140mm?onixbonilla said:Here are mines, going on a 29er! Will report!!!:devil:
I'm pretty sure they're 180/160 judging from the weight and the appearance of the spokes.
Oh, they are 180mm-160mm.:thumbsup:
Perfect... and the right color, wanna send them to me and I'll see if they are any good?!onixbonilla said:Oh, they are 180mm-160mm.:thumbsup:
Scrub rotors
once bedded-in, stopping power is only slightly less than with SL steel rotors (used with ceramic pads, sintered metallic pads are best) a 180mm Scrub Metal Matrix rotors upfront dissapate heat amazingly quickly and doesn't cook & glow as easily as regular SS rotors on prolonged descents - just as long as they have a few seconds to cool & braking pressure isn't continuous
almost a year old, they are still going strong we are expecting to get at least another 1,000 miles out of both sets, brake pad wear is fast especially when contitions are bad, we always now have a spare set of brake pads onhand
if the Scrub rotors have not bedded in properly the pads and rotors can develop a glaze that can make them scream and resonate (great for making hikers jump out of the way not much else!) this can be removed easily with fine grade sandpaper or a copper wire brush, used in an outward or circular motion on both rotors and pads
slightly out of shape Scrub rotors can usually be bent back to true in a few seconds, even easier than SS rotors
my (semi) magnesium Marta's sometime suffer from sticky pistons, if both pistons are not working equally this can also contribute to braking noise, its easily sorted by pushing back both piston with something soft like a toothbrush handle (or chopstick) and then re-centering the caliper
worn through 2 sets of pads already with my Scrubs, dedicating a set of ceramic/kevlar/brass/resin SwissStop pads to each rotor also helps keep hard braking noise down and speeds up bedding-in
for some reason SwissStop pads seem to work better on the wifes bike and KoolStop on mine - still not sure why, perhaps i did a better job of bedding hers in, anyway blah lucky for me as KoolStops are alot cheaper
hope that's of some help
(pics: my 1 year old Scrubs 180mm is 62g, 160mm 55g)
..........edit for typo('s)..........
we've been using Scrub rotors for almost a year on 2 XC bikes with both SwissStop and KoolStop pads 180/160, on 6 bolt hubs they became silent very quickly but on my centrelock hubs it took longer for them to quieten downCactusJackSlade said:How well do they work?
How long have you had them?
Stopping power?
Wear resistance?
Other comments?
once bedded-in, stopping power is only slightly less than with SL steel rotors (used with ceramic pads, sintered metallic pads are best) a 180mm Scrub Metal Matrix rotors upfront dissapate heat amazingly quickly and doesn't cook & glow as easily as regular SS rotors on prolonged descents - just as long as they have a few seconds to cool & braking pressure isn't continuous
almost a year old, they are still going strong we are expecting to get at least another 1,000 miles out of both sets, brake pad wear is fast especially when contitions are bad, we always now have a spare set of brake pads onhand
if the Scrub rotors have not bedded in properly the pads and rotors can develop a glaze that can make them scream and resonate (great for making hikers jump out of the way not much else!) this can be removed easily with fine grade sandpaper or a copper wire brush, used in an outward or circular motion on both rotors and pads
slightly out of shape Scrub rotors can usually be bent back to true in a few seconds, even easier than SS rotors
my (semi) magnesium Marta's sometime suffer from sticky pistons, if both pistons are not working equally this can also contribute to braking noise, its easily sorted by pushing back both piston with something soft like a toothbrush handle (or chopstick) and then re-centering the caliper
worn through 2 sets of pads already with my Scrubs, dedicating a set of ceramic/kevlar/brass/resin SwissStop pads to each rotor also helps keep hard braking noise down and speeds up bedding-in
for some reason SwissStop pads seem to work better on the wifes bike and KoolStop on mine - still not sure why, perhaps i did a better job of bedding hers in, anyway blah lucky for me as KoolStops are alot cheaper
hope that's of some help
(pics: my 1 year old Scrubs 180mm is 62g, 160mm 55g)
..........edit for typo('s)..........
Nice, interesting words everyone, thanks!
But you pay the shipping!!!:devil:CactusJackSlade said:Perfect... and the right color, wanna send them to me and I'll see if they are any good?!
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
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