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Scott Spark Linited 2010- upgrade?!

5959 Views 25 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  jmartpr, 
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Hi all,
Bought my new 2010 Limited, should get it soon...Meanwhile, I’m forcing my gray cells about what is the best way to knock down some weight..What do you guys suggest?? What would you do first and still have a good solid riding bike?

Stock bike come like this:

Weight :9.00 kg / 19.82 lbs

Frame: Scott Spark / IMP technology / HMX NET Integrated BB (Int. BB PF92) Carbon swingarm / carbon dropouts with replaceable hanger Sealed aircraft bearings 110mm rear travel Optimised SLS kinematic

Fork: DT Swiss XC 100 Race / Air spring carbon steerer, crown & lowers reb. A. / Lockout / 100mm travel

Remote System: Scott Twinloc Remote Lever front & rear lockout activate by one lever

Shock (Rear): Scott Nude TC 3 modes / LO-TC-AT Ball joints reb. Adj.

Headset: Ritchey WCS Carbon 1 1/8" semi integrated 44/50mm

Derailleur (Rear): RAM X-0 carbon medium cage 27 Speed

Derailleur (Front): Shimano XTR FD-M971 34.9mm clamp

Shifters: SRAM X-0 Trigger multi adj. with carbon cap

Brake Levers: Formula R1 Carbon

Brakes: Formula R1 Carbon 180/F and 160/R mm Rotor

Crankset: Truvativ Noir 3.3 TM Scott Custom Carbon crankarm Giga X Pipe 44Ax32Ax22A T

BB-Set: Truvativ GXP Int. BB PF92 shell 89.5mm

Handlebar: Scott Pilot SL Handlebar combo 600mm Scott light grips

H'stem: Scott Pilot SL Handlebar combo 1-1/8" / 5° angle

Pedals: n/a

Seatpost: Ritchey WCS LTD Carbon 34.9mm

Seat: Selle Italia SLR XP Kevlar Carbon rails

Hub (Front): DT Swiss 240 S Disc IT / RWS QR

Hub (Rear): DT Swiss 240 S Disc IT / RWS QR

Chain: SRAM PC 991 Hollow pin

Cassette: Shimano XTR CS-M970 11-32 T

Spokes: DT Swiss Aerolite white

Rims: DT Swiss XRC 300 Carbon 28 H Carbon rim

Tires: Schwalbe Rocket Ron 26 x 2.1 / 127EPI Kevlar Bead Evolution triple compound
--
Thank you in advance
:)

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B
I would have gotten the RC and then bought some lighter wheels (sell the stock ones) and cockpit components: sold the Fox fork and bought a Magura Durin SL.

The XX stuff is really nice and quite light for being durable. I'm not a fan of the DT fork at all.
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A
Hi briscoelab,
I got a very good deal on the LTD..and happy with this bike!
Saying that, I'm still thinking about knocking down some weight.
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K
Don't know the weights of the Scott OEM stuff, but, maybe change the Seatpost, Stem, Cranks, Chainrings, Rear cassette, shock, seat. Everything else is pretty light. Mattias makes custom Titanium Chainrings, stronger and lighter than the ones pictured, also, Stronglight and AC. Look at the Lightening cranks or similar, Seatposts, too many to list, but some weigh in very light, as well as seats.

I like everything else, even though it may not be the lightest!

Good luck.

Kevin
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C
This bike is almoust ideal, but if you want you can shed some weight with these:
- scrub rotors insted of formula ones - 81g (you can go even lighter if you choose to use 160/140)
- tune speedneedle, token or any other light carbon seats - 50g
- seatpost 31.8 with shim - about 50g
- lightning sl extralight crankset 2x9 with mattias rings - about 250g (or more if you use clavicula)
- ritchey superlogic or bontrager xxx handlebar with some light stem - about 50g
- road front derailleur - 50g
- cassette and chain - about 80g
- titanium suspension bolts - 20g
- carbon seatclamp - 30g
- grips - 10-20g
- gripshifts instead of triggers - 30g (maybe more, I'm not sure)

That sums as about 700 grams (more less). The last on this list is probably wheelset but I'm not sure how much weight you could save with these.
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Here are some suggestions:

Seat and seatpost could be trimmed (for weight, not literally), especially if you can get away with a straight post with no setback. There is a woodman post, or the Token ones Nino has on a thread somewhere.

Cranks are also a good weight saving area, although not by much unless you're willing to spend a lot of $. Raceface next SL with XTR BB will be about 120g saving, with FRM rings or the like its 50g more savings.

Brakes - change to 160/140 rotors
Lighter bar/stem combo
Go gripshift
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Q
just got a Spark frameset myself

- trimming the seatpost from 400mm to 320mm (straight cut) yields -21g. Maybe TUNE brings out its 34.9 seatpost this year.

- with regards to cranks I went Middleburn R8 Duo and CB Cobalt. Was more a budget thing but still reasonably light

- cockpit: Syntace F99 - Duraflite combo with Ti bolts (but don't know about your weights)

- get a proper wheelset !!!

I actually like the Formula rotors. Tried different lighter ones last year but always went back.
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C
You can also look at Nino's bike for weight savings.
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limba
Yup. Do what Nino did. He's the Scott weenie expert.
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B
quax said:
just got a Spark frameset myself

- trimming the seatpost from 400mm to 320mm (straight cut) yields -21g. Maybe TUNE brings out its 34.9 seatpost this year.

- with regards to cranks I went Middleburn R8 Duo and CB Cobalt. Was more a budget thing but still reasonably light

- cockpit: Syntace F99 - Duraflite combo with Ti bolts (but don't know about your weights)

- get a proper wheelset !!!

I actually like the Formula rotors. Tried different lighter ones last year but always went back.
Click to expand...
All good suggestions. I love the F99 stem, but I wish the Duraflite carbon 25.4mm bar was a little wider. The 9* sweep is great, but the outside of my hands get sore after an hour or so of riding on the narrow bar. I have been using a Salsa carbon 25.4mm bar with 11* sweep trimmed to about 620mm on my bike that has a F99 on it.

The Rotor 25.4mm stem is amazingly light at 83grams.... but it is like $200.

Another great combo that would add only a marginal amount of weight would be one of the new F109 stems and a 31.6mm Duraflite carbon bar. You get the same sweep, with a width of about 630mm. The wider oversized bar actually weighs nearly the same as the narrower 25.4mm bar (mine where within 4 grams of each other). The F109 stem also comes standard with Ti bolts and is really quite light.

You could also go with a lighter saddle, like a Speedneedle and save some weight.
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Q
actually have to correct something from above: the stock wheelset does not look too bad (weight-wise), I had missed the carbon rims. Not really necessary to spend $$$ for an upgrade if you like them.
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A
These are some excellent ideas !!!
Now I will have to make a serious Priority list :) ... Defiantly going to study Nino's Bike.
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amillmtb
Get rid of the 180mm rotor...I think its overkill.
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amillmtb
Double Post
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C
Similar "problem" as I had last year having bought a 2009 Spark Ltd. Only difference to 2010 bike is no ISP. My experiences were:

Good upgrades: Claviculas, XO twist grips, Selle Italia C64 saddle, Ti bolts, ceramic jockey wheels, Emporelli Dolomiti bollte cage, go tubeless with existing wheels/tyres, Alligator i-Links, PowerCordz, Syntace F99 stem, Easton monkeylite SL bars.

Upgrades I did then binned: Scrub rotors, KMC chain, KCNC Al cassette.

By binned I mean that they did not work properly and I returned the bike to original spec of R1 rotors, PC991 hollow pin chain and XTR casette. I would probably also leave cable upgrade till last, although I would do it again.

Best upgrade? Without a doubt the Claviculas.

It is a bike I would definitely buy again so enjoy it!
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Q
celestequattro, how much weight did you shave off with the Ti bolts? Same with me with the Scrub rotors. Regarding rotor size, this really really depends on where you live and how you use your bike. I also tried the 160mm up front but went back to 180mm. Felt safer in my biking environment.
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C
I don't recall how much weight I saved - had to do it for the sake of "completeness". Seemed to be no point in lugging steel bolts around if Ti lighter and prettier (i.e. gold finish to match bike). Did not do bolts on main pivots, rear shock etc. as I know somebody who did and one sheared off.

Oh, and I did go to 160mm up front and left it there. I am technically inept (both bike riding and IT wise!) and tend to drag my brakes everywhere, so not such a bit issue for me as perhaps it ought to be....
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C
Stock suspension bolts - 40g
(M6x35 * 2 + M5x16 * 6)

Ti bolts - 21,5g
(M6x35 - 5,2g, M5x16 - 1,85g)

So about 20g less.
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N
Celeste. Do you have pics?
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celestequattro said:
I don't recall how much weight I saved - had to do it for the sake of "completeness". Seemed to be no point in lugging steel bolts around if Ti lighter and prettier (i.e. gold finish to match bike). Did not do bolts on main pivots, rear shock etc. as I know somebody who did and one sheared off.

Oh, and I did go to 160mm up front and left it there. I am technically inept (both bike riding and IT wise!) and tend to drag my brakes everywhere, so not such a bit issue for me as perhaps it ought to be....
Click to expand...
Correct - I would NOT change the rear shock bolts either. I recently changed my DT shock for a Fox RPL. When I removed the M6 bolt and set it on the workbench, it rolled with a whop whop whop. Sure enough it was BENT. Now this is a case hardened 12.9 steel bolt - (160,000psi). Thats a tough bolt. I think the problem is the pivot type bushings that DT Swiss uses. The Fox bushing is a solid one piece unit, the DT Swiss is a two piece and it puts a lot of stress on the center of the bolt. I had to find a nut/bolt supply house to get a replacement 12.9 M6 bolt. I'm also 190lbs loaded - so YMMV on your bike.
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