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Salt Lake City, UT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '13 SB 95 with the OE Fox CTD fork and shock. I have the fork set to 120mm right now, but plan to adjust it to 140mm.

But, it feels really stiff, especially for small-bump compliance. I've been messing with various pressures / sag levels and will continue to do so, but is it just me, or is there an issue I need to address? The initial travel is either being blown right through, or it isn't reacting fast enough to deal with all of the smaller chatter on the trail. Yesterday I hit a chuck-hole that about ripped the bars out of my hands.

I recall Bear stating something to the effect that the '13 fork internals can and should be swapped out to the '14 internals to help with the fork blowing through the initial stroke too quickly. This is what I believe may be the issue - if I run lower pressure in the fork, I'm guessing that it is riding too low in the travel to begin with, which is possibly why it feels so stiff, as it is riding in the lower portion of the stroke.

Bottom line: I want better small-bump performance from the fork - does anyone else have this issue and what can be done?
 

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You should swap out the internals for the 2014. I did so and noticed a it difference. I no longer have to run my pressure really high to adjust for the initial blow through of travel. You now get 3 distinct levels from the CTD. Money well spent.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
 

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Chilling out
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Has it been always like this?

When was it last serviced? The service interval isn't long ... like 30 hours riding time, at lest for the lower bath oil, seals, etc. If the lower bath is dry or dirty that could have a large impact on initial stiction ... which would play into small compliance. While I had the Fox fork I kept up on the lower bath lubing, didn't always change the dust wipers on top but did keep the oil fresh.

Using the wrong oil on the lower bath can also cause really high initial sticktion. I personally used Bel Rey cartridge fork oil, or Torco RSF, and never had a problem.

I'd also use Slick Honey on the bushings internally and dust wipers when reassembling.

But, assuming all that isn't a factor, ... you should call Fox and complain ... nicely ... but ... persistently.

There was a time when they'd do the work and upgrade the damper for a very reasonable fee. That was a while ago, so who knows what the deal is now, but asking politely can't hurt.
 

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Salt Lake City, UT
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Has it been always like this? When was it last serviced?
Yeah - I bought it as a demo with a couple hundred miles on it, and I've since put about 450m on it already since January. So yes, it is due for a service which I will do yet this week myself. I'm sure that is part of the issue, but I felt that it is so harsh that maybe there was an issue beyond that.

I have Fox's 10wt and Slick Honey as well - I'll go through it and see if that does the trick - might even do it tonight and take it out tomorrow to see how that plays out.

Thanks for the input and yeah my plan was to call Fox to talk to them about the '14 internals - they've always been really great to deal with; I'm sure they'll be helpful.
 

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Salt Lake City, UT
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update: took my fork apart this morning - oil was very clean, but it didn't seem like much came out of the air spring side. Foam rings were totally dry (soaking in oil right now) and the bushings were dry too. So there's part of my issue.

My fork does have the black travel-limiting spacer, so I'm going to go ahead and remove that while I'm at it to see how I feel with the 140mm.

I called Fox to comment about the performance of the current setup (super rough in the chatter) and he said they '14 air spring kit is a big improvement over the 13 that I currently have, and more-so, the setup I currently have is an older setup they had to use exclusive to the SB 95 to be able to get a 34 fork at 120mm.

He said I could buy the '14 140mm air spring kit for $50. Cheap. Also worth nothing, that '14 140mm kit can only be reduced down to 130mm.

I'm putting my fork back together today and will see how it is later this afternoon.
 

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Salt Lake City, UT
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
FYI - did a basic service, cleaned, lubed and re-assembled the fork, removing the black coil spring spacer to set the fork at 140mm.

Gigantic, monumental difference in performance. I would have to think that they service and oil change is what made the big difference, but the extra travel couldn't have hurt either. I felt like I could bomb down anything and with a ride just the day before on the same trail, the difference was very obvious. Now the CTD functions really stand out.
 

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Salt Lake City, UT
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Photo Apr 19, 10 25 58 AM.jpg BTW, once I removed my spacer, I'm getting a measurement of 150mm of travel, from the top of the dust wiper to the crown. Is this normal / correct and they just call it 140?
 

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I did the upgrade to 2014 internals on my '13 Talas CTD and it was the single best improvement to that bike yet. Went from stiff to plush like a float. It was the Talas side that was swapped out. Also had it extended to 150mm from 140mm stock with the same stanchions. Not sure if it was just spacers or they put a different size Talas in. Fox was great about it and price was reasonable.


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How did you take the spacer out, I'd like to try it on another bike...
FYI - did a basic service, cleaned, lubed and re-assembled the fork, removing the black coil spring spacer to set the fork at 140mm.

Gigantic, monumental difference in performance. I would have to think that they service and oil change is what made the big difference, but the extra travel couldn't have hurt either. I felt like I could bomb down anything and with a ride just the day before on the same trail, the difference was very obvious. Now the CTD functions really stand out.
 

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Salt Lake City, UT
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I did the upgrade to 2014 internals on my '13 Talas CTD and it was the single best improvement to that bike yet. Went from stiff to plush like a float. It was the Talas side that was swapped out. Also had it extended to 150mm from 140mm stock with the same stanchions. Not sure if it was just spacers or they put a different size Talas in. Fox was great about it and price was reasonable.
My last bike had a Talas on a 150mm fork - hated it. Swapped it out with a Float and it was worlds better.

And I'll say it again, speaking of, now that I put my bike to 150mm (if anyone would speak up about that, that would be great - everyone says the fork is a 140mm, but look at my measurement above - I'm seeing 150mm); Now it's a whole different-bomb-anything machine.

Heading out right now as a matter of fact...
 

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I did the upgrade to 2014 internals on my '13 Talas CTD and it was the single best improvement to that bike yet. Went from stiff to plush like a float. It was the Talas side that was swapped out. Also had it extended to 150mm from 140mm stock with the same stanchions. Not sure if it was just spacers or they put a different size Talas in. Fox was great about it and price was reasonable.

My last bike had a Talas on a 150mm fork - hated it. Swapped it out with a Float and it was worlds better.

And I'll say it again, speaking of, now that I put my bike to 150mm (if anyone would speak up about that, that would be great - everyone says the fork is a 140mm, but look at my measurement above - I'm seeing 150mm); Now it's a whole different-bomb-anything machine.

Heading out right now as a matter of fact...
It really matters what year the Talas is. In the 2014 model, they fixed the problem, iot has less seals now and it is just like my float on open setting. I agree, if you had an earlier model, you probably weren't happy. I talked to fox today about the 2015 models coming out this July. A 150 & 160mm /36mm for a 29er w/ RC2 and a 34mm Talas in a 150mm as well.
....Just got back myself. Chumash Trail and Side Action, awesome!
 

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Salt Lake City, UT
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It really matters what year the Talas is. In the 2014 model, they fixed the problem, iot has less seals now and it is just like my float on open setting. I agree, if you had an earlier model, you probably weren't happy. I talked to fox today about the 2015 models coming out this July. A 150 & 160mm /36mm for a 29er w/ RC2 and a 34mm Talas in a 150mm as well.
....Just got back myself. Chumash Trail and Side Action, awesome!
I missed your question about the spacer - sorry:

Drop the lowers as if you're doing an oil change. There is a snap-ring cir-clip deal (at the bottom-most part of the inner tubes) that you'll need to remove on the air spring side (once the lowers are removed). Then pull the air spring assembly out, or just far enough until you see the coil spring. You should then see a black spacer above the coil spring.

Pry it out - it only partially wraps around the inner rod, so it can be easily removed. You can pop it off by hand.

That's it. Reassemble and you'll have 140 or 150....I thought it was 140, but like I've said above, I'm at 150.

(and yeah, after talking to Fox I learned that I had the Talas V3 - they said the V5 remedied the stiction issues and I'm sure even later version will be that much better. But for me, I don't want to be messing with a switch at all, so I just don't like what Talas offers. Every time I used Talas before, I would suddenly come up to a drop or downhill section and my bike would be stuck down at 120 with weird geometry due to that, etc. I run my stem low enough that I feel good at any climb).
 

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And I'll say it again, speaking of, now that I put my bike to 150mm (if anyone would speak up about that, that would be great - everyone says the fork is a 140mm, but look at my measurement above - I'm seeing 150mm); Now it's a whole different-bomb-anything machine.
Its normal for Fox legs to measure ~10mm longer than the actual travel.
 

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I've got a 2014 bike but my Fox fork (34 140 Float) isn't as plush as I expected. How can I tell what model year the fork is?
Not 100% sure about the differences in '13-'14 with the Float. I can tell the difference of the CTD Talas by the air cap between '13 and '14. It might be the same air cap on the Float(?)
The '13 is a small blue hexagon shaped cap while the '14 looks more like a plus (+) symbol. This is the case on the Talas at least.
Is your Float a CTD?
Using fork butter on the stanchions or a little fork fluid on the seals before a ride always makes a noticeable difference to me. It is really dusty out here and the bike is covered in fine powder after just a few miles. That powder tends to clog everything up.
 

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Salt Lake City, UT
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I've got a 2014 bike but my Fox fork (34 140 Float) isn't as plush as I expected. How can I tell what model year the fork is?
The serial number under the crown will date the fork; you may be able to look up the serial number on Fox's website, or just call them.

I called them last week about my fork - they claimed that the '14 air spring cartridge was another big improvement over the '13 unit, especially for soaking up the small, sudden harsh hits.
 
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