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Same wheel. New hub. 9mm to 20mm. What do I need to know?

2217 Views 41 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Roasted
I've never built a wheel from scratch, but I've used my truing stand a number of times. Due to upgrading the front fork, I'm trying to wing it and get a 20mm thru axle fork instead of a 9mm QR fork. Well, that requires a new hub. I like my wheelset a lot, and I don't have a ton of extra money to throw around, so getting a new hub sounded good to me. Only thing is I'd have to re-lace it on my own. No biggie. I'm sure I can handle it.

But ahh, the big question. I know I have to match up the holes, meaning I have a 32h wheel, so I need a 32h hub with 20mm axle. Okay, fine. But what about the spoke length? Will it matter? I'm clearly assuming here, but I thought with the hubs being 20mm axle, they would in turn be larger than standard 9mm hubs, in turn requiring shorter spokes to hit the proper distance for 26" wheels.

Is this correct? Do I need new spokes?

Also - what's a good quality, but relatively affordable front hub? I currently have Deore hubs on my wheelset and I like them a lot. Something comparable would be nice. Also - there's several different kinds of hubs, right? In terms of maintenance when it comes to the need for overhauling, etc. Are the cartridge kinds better/more reliable/etc? Anyway, just suggest me what you guys think. Thanks!
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The only Shimano hubs for 20mm are centerlock so if your Deore hubs are 6 bolt...look at something else. The Deore 6 bolt hubs have pretty large diameter flanges so a 20mm hub may not necessarily be larger. You don't need to spend a lot on a front hub...they're only a shell and bearings (20mm don't even really have an axle). The Sette hub from Price Point is more than significant.

Though the two hubs (Deore M525 and Sette 20mm) have slightly different dimensions...putting them into a spoke calculator comes out with basically the same spoke length...so you should be able to do a direct swap.
Talk to your bike shop about what you want to do. Make a deal that if you buy a hub from them, they will do the swap for you.
It could save you hours of hassle and you WILL end up with a stronger wheel.
Once I replaced a hub and the charge from the shop was remarkably cheap.
mtnbiker72 said:
The only Shimano hubs for 20mm are centerlock so if your Deore hubs are 6 bolt...look at something else. The Deore 6 bolt hubs have pretty large diameter flanges so a 20mm hub may not necessarily be larger. You don't need to spend a lot on a front hub...they're only a shell and bearings (20mm don't even really have an axle). The Sette hub from Price Point is more than significant.

Though the two hubs (Deore M525 and Sette 20mm) have slightly different dimensions...putting them into a spoke calculator comes out with basically the same spoke length...so you should be able to do a direct swap.
With that hub, if the bearings in it wear out, what's the protocol for changing them? My rear hub I've overhauled already, so I have cone wrenches, etc. But just by judging by the looks of that Sette, it looks... different... is that a cartridge type, or would I apply the same cone wrenches I have to that hub if I ever needed to overhaul it?
Roasted said:
With that hub, if the bearings in it wear out, what's the protocol for changing them? My rear hub I've overhauled already, so I have cone wrenches, etc. But just by judging by the looks of that Sette, it looks... different... is that a cartridge type, or would I apply the same cone wrenches I have to that hub if I ever needed to overhaul it?
Cartridge...pop the old bearings out (may or may not need a bearing puller) and press new bearings in...no cone wrenches needed.
Well the bike shop was on backorder on some stuff, so I was just banking on buying what I need myself and taking it to them on my own accord.

I started to wonder, despite the fact we're talking 80 bucks instead of 40, what do you guys think of this wheel?

http://www.ebikestop.com/dimension_front_26__dimension_qr_20mm_wtb_dual_duty-WE8622.php

It's a single 26" wheel that fits the parameters of what I need. The advantages are it's already built and it's a sure-fire way to avoid any issues regarding spoke mismatches, even though it sounds like that's not going to be an issue.

Or do you think it's still more worthwhile for me to relace the Sette hub on my current setup and see what happens?
FWIW, I went from a XT QR hub (m756) to the Sette hub that '72 mentioned - the flange diameters were comparable and I was able to reuse spokes w/out issue.
If you're coming from a non-disc hub, you'll need to get 16 spokes that are 2mm shorter for the NDS to make sure they don't bottom out.
Naw, these are disc wheelsets I currently have. The wheelset I have wasn't stock, I got them August of 2009, however the original wheelset came with discs anyway.

I guess part of this is laziness. I know truing a wheel is tedious work, but I've never built a wheel, so I fear it'll take me hours upon hours and the weekend will roll around with gorgeous weather and I have a wobbly front wheel that's a truing work in progress, bangin shock (I did just order the Tora SL Solo Air btw) and otherwise ready-to-go bike.

If the Dimension would be comparable in quality, it might not be a bad idea. But I've never heard of them, unlike Sette who's had a good reputation with me through quite a few different products.

Maybe I should grab the hub and see what happens... worst case scenario I drop a few bucks @ the LBS to get the proper spokes...
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Roasted said:
Well the bike shop was on backorder on some stuff, so I was just banking on buying what I need myself and taking it to them on my own accord.

I started to wonder, despite the fact we're talking 80 bucks instead of 40, what do you guys think of this wheel?

http://www.ebikestop.com/dimension_front_26__dimension_qr_20mm_wtb_dual_duty-WE8622.php

It's a single 26" wheel that fits the parameters of what I need. The advantages are it's already built and it's a sure-fire way to avoid any issues regarding spoke mismatches, even though it sounds like that's not going to be an issue.

Or do you think it's still more worthwhile for me to relace the Sette hub on my current setup and see what happens?
That sounds like a way better idea to me.
Getting all the tensions right and even, with the rim perfectly centered, and without any run out (wobble), is not easy, especially if you don't have all the specialized tools like a tension guage, alignment guage, truing stand etc. You would probably end up with something that seemed "ok", but I doubt it would fool anyone as a factory built wheel.
Probably not too many people say that the first wheel they ever built came out perfect...
smilinsteve said:
That sounds like a way better idea to me.
Getting all the tensions right and even, with the rim perfectly centered, and without any run out (wobble), is not easy, especially if you don't have all the specialized tools like a tension guage, alignment guage, truing stand etc. You would probably end up with something that seemed "ok", but I doubt it would fool anyone as a factory built wheel.
Probably not too many people say that the first wheel they ever built came out perfect...
Well, I'm pretty experienced with truing wheels, I've done it a number of times. I can't imagine building a wheel is any different besides the obvious steps of lacing a wheel up.

My 2 fears are basically this:

- I hate to get all of the gear and have it sit there waiting for me to get done lacing the wheel up. It's basically impatience I know I'll have with it.

- I hate to get that built wheel and find out "Dimension" is actually a low quality wheel, while the Sette I know is a decent brand and I'm sure it'll be a sure-fire win...
smilinsteve said:
That sounds like a way better idea to me.
Getting all the tensions right and even, with the rim perfectly centered, and without any run out (wobble), is not easy, especially if you don't have all the specialized tools like a tension guage, alignment guage, truing stand etc. You would probably end up with something that seemed "ok", but I doubt it would fool anyone as a factory built wheel.
Probably not too many people say that the first wheel they ever built came out perfect...
Gotta learn sometime ;)

OP take a look at Mike T page - he lays out the steps quite nicely.
http://miketechinfo.com/new-tech-wheels-tires.htm
Neither he or I started building wheels with all these funky doo-dads (that was even before spoke calcs :eek: what a pain)
I tension by feel and ear (so does mike), I dish and true in a frame or fork.

*Disclaimer - I do not claim to be as prolific as Mike! :D

Yeah, your first wheels may be a pain, but if you follow the steps, you can do it if you have any mechanical aptitude.

Or don't - either way is cool w/ me ;)
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highdelll said:
Gotta learn sometime ;)

OP take a look at Mike T page - he lays out the steps quite nicely.
http://miketechinfo.com/new-tech-wheels-tires.htm
Neither he or I started building wheels with all these funky doo-dads (that was even before spoke calcs :eek: what a pain)
I tension by feel and ear (so does mike), I dish and true in a frame or fork.

*Disclaimer - I do not claim to be as prolific as Mike! :D

Yeah, your first wheels may be a pain, but if you follow the steps, you can do it if you have any mechanical aptitude.

Or don't - either way is cool w/ me ;)
Good tip. Let's take our chances with that Sette hub and see what happens. :thumbsup:
highdelll said:
FWIW, I went from a XT QR hub (m756) to the Sette hub that '72 mentioned - the flange diameters were comparable and I was able to reuse spokes w/out issue.
If you're coming from a non-disc hub, you'll need to get 16 spokes that are 2mm shorter for the NDS to make sure they don't bottom out.
FWIW = fwom what I wemember?

:D
Roasted said:
Well, I'm pretty experienced with truing wheels, I've done it a number of times. I can't imagine building a wheel is any different besides the obvious steps of lacing a wheel up.

My 2 fears are basically this:

- I hate to get all of the gear and have it sit there waiting for me to get done lacing the wheel up. It's basically impatience I know I'll have with it.

- I hate to get that built wheel and find out "Dimension" is actually a low quality wheel, while the Sette I know is a decent brand and I'm sure it'll be a sure-fire win...
Dimension is a house brand for QBP (and Sette a house brand for Pricepoint). They offer decent parts at a good price. Not low quality.

I have the wheel in the link. Well built, strong, good parts, though it does use straight gauge spokes to cut cost. Not light, but the price is right. The hub is convertible from 20mm to 9mm QR (parts included), wide WTB Dual Duty FR rim. I could not have built a wheel from scratch anywhere near the same cost.
smilinsteve said:
FWIW = fwom what I wemember?

:D
Sure!:thumbsup:
shiggy said:
Dimension is a house brand for QBP (and Sette a house brand for Pricepoint). They offer decent parts at a good price. Not low quality.

I have the wheel in the link. Well built, strong, good parts, though it does use straight gauge spokes to cut cost. Not light, but the price is right. The hub is convertible from 20mm to 9mm QR (parts included), wide WTB Dual Duty FR rim. I could not have built a wheel from scratch anywhere near the same cost.
Well, thanks to this post I cancelled my PricePoint order on the Sette hub because it looks a whole lot more attractive now that I know what the scoop is on the wheel, brand, etc.

Plus the 9mm to 20mm convertible setting is EXTREMELY nice, meaning there won't be any downtime from me riding besides the fork install...

What is bad about straight gauge spokes? I can't imagine my spokes are anything top notch quality. After all, the wheelset I bought was http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/12...eore-Disc-Wheelset-w/-Sun-Rhyno-Lite-Rims.htm If anything I'm sure this wheel is on par, if not, a hair better...

Is the hub one of those cartridge styles?
Roasted said:
Well, thanks to this post I cancelled my PricePoint order on the Sette hub because it looks a whole lot more attractive now that I know what the scoop is on the wheel, brand, etc.

Plus the 9mm to 20mm convertible setting is EXTREMELY nice, meaning there won't be any downtime from me riding besides the fork install...

What is bad about straight gauge spokes? I can't imagine my spokes are anything top notch quality. After all, the wheelset I bought was http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/12...eore-Disc-Wheelset-w/-Sun-Rhyno-Lite-Rims.htm If anything I'm sure this wheel is on par, if not, a hair better...

Is the hub one of those cartridge styles?
Better than what you have.

Butted spokes are lighter and more durable than straight gauge but cost more.

Your current wheels are also straight gauge.

Cartridge bearings, as are most 20mm hubs.
shiggy said:
Cartridge bearings, as are most 20mm hubs.
I can't think of one that isn't :p
highdelll said:
I can't think of one that isn't :p
Hey man, 20mm hubs are a new world to me. Learning a piece at a time. :p Good tip to know, though!

Are all 15mm and 20mm dropouts closed? Or is there such thing as an open dropout for 15mm or 20mm setups?
Roasted said:
Hey man, 20mm hubs are a new world to me. Learning a piece at a time. :p Good tip to know, though!

Are all 15mm and 20mm dropouts closed? Or is there such thing as an open dropout for 15mm or 20mm setups?
Yes.
No, and you'll notice that they'll usually have a "through-axle" tagged in there somewhere.
the "through" indicates that it a closed 'drop-out'.

-well that's my take anyway.
(Now someone will chime in with an obscure frame that was made in Atlantis 9000 years ago and prove me wrong :p)
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