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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

This is my first post on MTBR. I'm in my 40s and started riding last summer and was instantly hooked.
I ride my local trails in the SF bay area and currently have a Cannondale Trail 5 HT. I like the bike overall but it doesnt have a dropper post which means whenever I climb with my saddle high, I need to lower it as soon as I get to a flat section (or moderate climb) or I get groin pain. I think the issue will be solved by getting a dropper post but I also understand that saddle shape has a big part to play in relieving groin pain.

I am considering getting a dropper post (or upgrading to a nicer HT that comes with one and also has better fork with LO, better drivetrain such as the Cannondale Trail SE3). Do you guys think this will solve my problem or do I still need to look into a different saddle?

Thanks!
 

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I think you should dial in the correct seat height first, riding comfortably didn't just happen after dropper posts came around.

If the seat height is right it will work well for climbs and flats. Downhills should still be manageable but obviously not optimal.

Once you get it set give it a little time before doing any saddle shopping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think you should dial in the correct seat height first, riding comfortably didn't just happen after dropper posts came around.

If the seat height is right it will work well for climbs and flats. Downhills should still be manageable but obviously not optimal.

Once you get it set give it a little time before doing any saddle shopping.
I have not found a seat height that works equally well for both flats and climbs. The one that is good for flats is suboptimal for climbs (less efficient, more strain on the knees) whereas the high position that's good for climbs (12-17% grade for the trails I ride on) gives me a sore groin on the flats.
 

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I have not found a seat height that works equally well for both flats and climbs. The one that is good for flats is suboptimal for climbs (less efficient, more strain on the knees) whereas the high position that's good for climbs (12-17% grade for the trails I ride on) gives me a sore groin on the flats.

That's not a normal thing, using a dropper to alleviate your issue is a band-aid approach to solving a deeper issue.

That said get a dropper for sure, just for different reasons :)
 

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I have not found a seat height that works equally well for both flats and climbs. The one that is good for flats is suboptimal for climbs (less efficient, more strain on the knees) whereas the high position that's good for climbs (12-17% grade for the trails I ride on) gives me a sore groin on the flats.
12-17% climbs I don't think I could do still seated. That is very steep!
As mentioned, flat and climbing position shouldn't be any different. Play with the saddle angle as suggested, maybe the front of the saddle a couple degrees/mm down will help. The saddle will also be able to slide back and forth too. I can't remember the exact suggestion but if have your leg straight with your toes on the pedals that's a good starting point as when you have your foot on the pedals normally your legs will have a slight bend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
12-17% climbs I don't think I could do still seated. That is very steep!
As mentioned, flat and climbing position shouldn't be any different. Play with the saddle angle as suggested, maybe the front of the saddle a couple degrees/mm down will help. The saddle will also be able to slide back and forth too. I can't remember the exact suggestion but if have your leg straight with your toes on the pedals that's a good starting point as when you have your foot on the pedals normally your legs will have a slight bend.
I follow the guidance for seat height for flats which works very well (leg straight with heel on the pedal which equates to knee slightly bent with the balls of my feet on the pedal). For climbs, I raise the saddle higher by at least another inch and have noticed that it helps my climbing a LOT. I do climb seated. Will try lower the front a bit and see if that helps.
 

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ok let me take a look at mine. It's been rainy here but hopefully will get to ride in the next week and can report back then.
Another available adjustment: you should also be able to slide your saddle fore or aft on its rails.
=sParty
 

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I'd start with the dropper, followed by a new saddle.

Pnw components make pretty great droppers for the money.

Saddle wise a good shop should have a saddle trial program. Find a saddle that's perfect and it really improves a ride. That's where I fell in love with my wtb Volt Pro... So nice!

An upgraded bike isn't really any different that getting a dropper & saddle for yours. Sure a nice bike is nice, but I'd wear yours out and buy a super nice one gently used. I've never gotten along with a stock seat. And dude, dropper posts are amazing... Seriously great.
 

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Sound like you are climbing with your saddle too high.

Lots of way to check saddle height. Simplest one is that with you heel on the pedal your knee should be locked and your hips level. This will get you into the ball park.
 

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Lots of way to check saddle height. Simplest one is that with you heel on the pedal your knee should be locked and your hips level. This will get you into the ball park.
Seconded.

Also, tilting the saddle nose down helps (level saddle is only really for road riding). This will make sure you are actually sitting on it vs. crushing your bois in on it.

Cheap saddles that come on cheap bikes actually tend to be more comfortable. I like this one Bontrager Sport Bike Saddle | Trek Bikes

And yes, by all means, get a dropper for descending.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sound like you are climbing with your saddle too high.

Lots of way to check saddle height. Simplest one is that with you heel on the pedal your knee should be locked and your hips level. This will get you into the ball park.
This is exactly how I set the saddle height for flats and mild ascents - see my comment above.

However it doesn't work well for steeper climbs. I climb seated. Are you doing steeper climbs seated, and with this saddle position?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Seconded.

Also, tilting the saddle nose down helps (level saddle is only really for road riding). This will make sure you are actually sitting on it vs. crushing your bois in on it.

Cheap saddles that come on cheap bikes actually tend to be more comfortable. I like this one Bontrager Sport Bike Saddle | Trek Bikes

And yes, by all means, get a dropper for descending.
yeah looking into the saddle angle. will also look at alternate saddles next and then the dropper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'd start with the dropper, followed by a new saddle.

Pnw components make pretty great droppers for the money.

Saddle wise a good shop should have a saddle trial program. Find a saddle that's perfect and it really improves a ride. That's where I fell in love with my wtb Volt Pro... So nice!

An upgraded bike isn't really any different that getting a dropper & saddle for yours. Sure a nice bike is nice, but I'd wear yours out and buy a super nice one gently used. I've never gotten along with a stock seat. And dude, dropper posts are amazing... Seriously great.
Makes sense!
 
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