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Thanks, that's comforting my mind :thumbsup:

Do you happen to have a picture of the clearance between chainstay and chain at the lowest point, when you are at the 10T rear?

I would go with an SRAM XX1 crank, because I like to use Chris King PF30 bearings. The Campy style connection of the S-Works cranks uses a carbon sleeved tube, that fits in between the BB30 bearings. Don't think I can use it with Chris King bearings though, so XX1 crank it will be.
 

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The Raceface Next SL with 28 tooth chainring works perfectly on the SW WC. There are some things that influence whether a ring size will work on a specific crank/bike combo, Q factor being one of them.

If you can get your hands on one, the Next SL is a great crankset. It's as light (or lighter?) than the S-Works, and I believe you can run anything from a 26-36T chainring. If you later want to move it to another bike and use it as a 2x10, you can do that as well. You just have to buy the spider.
 

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Thanks. I saw that post, but everybody says the chain will grind on the chain stay with the 28T's smaller diameter and the WC's larger chain stays. No issues? Still running the chain stay protector? Shouldn't the chain stay clearance be the same for all types of cranks? So could you run a 28T on the Epic Expert WC's original crank set by switchting the spider to XX1 with its smaller BCD (required for the XX1 28T) and have the same effect?
 

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"Shouldn't the chain stay clearance be the same for all types of cranks? So could you run a 28T on the Epic Expert WC's original crank set by switchting the spider to XX1 with its smaller BCD (required for the XX1 28T) and have the same effect?"

I couldn't speak as to whether any other crank besides the Next SL on an SW WC would work, although I am sure there would be no difference with an Expert WC. Perhaps the RF crank has a wider Q factor and the chain is a hair more outboard?

I just went out and looked at the clearance for the first time. I was surprised that it is only 3-5mm. There isn't a mark on the rubber chainstay cover, so I guess the clutch in the XX1 RD really works perfectly.

That made me think of something else. The reason I went with a 28T chainring is that I ride a lot of very steep climbs. When I went 1x11, I made the decision to give up top end, rather than lose bottom end gearing. The decision was made easier by the fact that I have zero use for a higher gear than 28x10 on the trail. In fact, I rarely use the 10 unless I am riding roads to and from the trails. If I were racing and hammering a rough downhill in the 28x10, I might get some chain slap. Even if I did, with the way the rubber guard is designed, I don't see how the chain could ever hit the chainstay. And of course, if I were racing, I would likely be using a 32T chainring.
 

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I'm running a 32T on S-works crank with a SRAM X9 type 2 rear derailleur and I get quite a bit of chain slap. My frame was a warranty but they didn't give me the protector so its fairly noisy.

Anyone have a chain stay protector for a WC frame they want to sell? The website lists a bunch of different models but not a WC version.
 

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If you are running the new Sworks cranks i don't believe there is a 28 tooth ring to fit the BCD on those cranks yet.
I could be wrong, but last time i looked there was not
 

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I just wanted to chime in here in case anyone else encounters this on the 2014/2015 WC edition..

So the stock 2014 WC S-Works Epic that I have has a 32T on it right now. I have the chain stay protector, but I still get a fair bit of chain slap on rough terrain even with a properly sized chain.

I briefly tried a 30T wolf tooth components front ring, and the chain slap was significantly worse.

The chain slap was bad enough that it was actually chewing up the plastic lip edge (not the rubberized black part) on the protector.. I gave up the 30T and went back to a 32T over it.

I ride a medium frame & everything is stock. Anyone else get a fair bit of chain slap in their 3 smallest cogs in the back even w/ the 32T?

Regards,
 
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