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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently built a budget HT with mostly leftover parts that I had laying around - my goal was to spend almost no $ but build a somewhat capable HT to do some light trail riding and mucking about. I had a spare non-boost wheelset (frame is non-boost), a boost fork and a boost adapter kit, so I thought I was set.

However, since the wheels are centerlock I realized I could not use the 5mm spacer for the rotor out as these only work with 6-bolt - I mounted it up with the entire wheel 5mm off to one side (both axle spacers on one side) and it looks a bit funny but it seems to work

However, I'm wondering if it is either unsafe, akward, unstable, or just not a good idea for reasons I have not considered - I was thinking that I could probably center it a bit more with some re-dishing but didn't even want to get into this if this was just a flawed idea from the start

Anybody smarter than me have any thoughts? Just re-dish a bit and ride it or is this just a bad idea and I need to try to maybe trade for a different fork or front wheel

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the helpful replies - the centerlock adapter is pretty cool but looks like I have to order from Europe - I am going to attempt the 5mm re-dish approach 1st

Thanks again!
 

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transmitter~receiver
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Nope. Its 100% fine, works admirably and gives you all the benefits of boost for a cost of a 10mm sleeve you add on the drive side. You just need to dish the wheel by 5mm.
The main advantage of boost hubs is the wider bracing angle of the spokes. An adapter gives you none of the benefits of boost, it just lets you run a regular wheel in a boost fork.
 

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The main advantage of boost hubs is the wider bracing angle of the spokes. An adapter gives you none of the benefits of boost, it just lets you run a regular wheel in a boost fork.
You say the advantage of Boost is the wider bracing of the spokes. Lets be clear wider flange spacing can provide the ability to build a more lateral stable wheel but it is only one part of the equation. Also not all Boost hubs have wider flanges. Plenty of MFG's just put wider end caps on there non-boost hubs and call it good.
 

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transmitter~receiver
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You say the advantage of Boost is the wider bracing of the spokes. Lets be clear wider flange spacing can provide the ability to build a more lateral stable wheel but it is only one part of the equation. Also not all Boost hubs have wider flanges. Plenty of MFG's just put wider end caps on there non-boost hubs and call it good.
What are the other parts of the equation?
 

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Elitest thrill junkie
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I recently built a budget HT with mostly leftover parts that I had laying around - my goal was to spend almost no $ but build a somewhat capable HT to do some light trail riding and mucking about. I had a spare non-boost wheelset (frame is non-boost), a boost fork and a boost adapter kit, so I thought I was set.

However, since the wheels are centerlock I realized I could not use the 5mm spacer for the rotor out as these only work with 6-bolt - I mounted it up with the entire wheel 5mm off to one side (both axle spacers on one side) and it looks a bit funny but it seems to work

However, I'm wondering if it is either unsafe, akward, unstable, or just not a good idea for reasons I have not considered - I was thinking that I could probably center it a bit more with some re-dishing but didn't even want to get into this if this was just a flawed idea from the start

Anybody smarter than me have any thoughts? Just re-dish a bit and ride it or is this just a bad idea and I need to try to maybe trade for a different fork or front wheel

Thanks!
You can use the MRP brake adapter to run a centerlock non-boost front wheel on a boost fork, the only negative is you have to run at least a 180mm rotor, but for most people that's the best choice anyway. There is also a european company making an adapter for "centerlock", but I found it only seems to work for DT swiss, it will not work with a shimano centerlock hub.

It works great, been running it for nearly a year.

Bicycle part Bicycle accessory Bicycle wheel rim Spoke Bicycle drivetrain part
Bicycle tire Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle part Bicycle accessory Spoke


The rear end is trickier if you run centerlock, I was able to use the brake adapter from said european kit above on a rear DT swiss hub and I bought a shim to space the brake out a bit more in the splines, having measured the required ID for the spacer with my calipers. Then just use the 3mm spacer kits that exist in abundance, but you need to know what you are doing, it's far simpler to do rear boost adapters on non-centerlock hubs. 3mm spacers on each side and a 3mm spacer ring for the brake rotor. The derailleurs have plenty of range for this IME and since the cassette is essentially unchanged in it's position, you don't need a boost crankset/chainring either.

Luckily for this bike only 1 of my two wheelsets has the centerlock rear, so I didn't end up having to do this all twice.

People are running around with 24 and less spoke count wheels, and carbon wheels are massively stiff, so I'm not concerned about a minimal increase in wheel stiffness that I may be missing out on, my wheels were already great because I built them that way. No reason for me to "upgrade" until I am forced to buy a new hub for some other reason, like a catastrophic failure.
 

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transmitter~receiver
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Hub choice,spoke selection, nipples, rim and the build process. As with any thing the difference in a high quality, durable, long lasting wheel that provides the ride quality for the intended purpose and rider is in the details. Sometimes those details are not obvious.
My point was a 10mm adapter doesn't get you "all the benefits of boost," and it doesn't. The required redishing can help balance spoke tension depending on the rim offset, but the blanket statement is still inaccurate.
None of what you're talking about is particular to boost- all of those things are equally applicable to a build regardless of the hub spec.
The only benefit a boost hub allows over a 100mm hub is the ability to optimize flange spacing in a different way because it relaxes the clearance constraint. Adapting a 100mm hub doesn't capture that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You can use the MRP brake adapter to run a centerlock non-boost front wheel on a boost fork, the only negative is you have to run at least a 180mm rotor, but for most people that's the best choice anyway.
That offset MRP adapter is pretty cool - do you happen to know where you got it or what the official name is? - I searched for it and could not find it, not even on MRP site
 

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