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Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting a wheelset with those rims (built by Mike C.), and I wanted to know if anyone's running them tubeless. If so, please share how you did it / what tape you used / etc.

(I looked around, and only found a few mentions of DH types running the 26" tubeless, but no mentions of parts or technique, let alone even mentioning the 29er.)

Thanks in advance. :)
 

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395 Fat Tire Council
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I'm going to be in the same boat as you with some mikec built mtx33's. While I haven't tried it with mtx33's I've never had any problems ghetto tubeless using 26" tubes.
 

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i have tried to do them with gorilla tape and with fabric tape and electrical tape type methods. Both were a fail for me.

they have a fairly deep center channel similar to the delgado I think. I suspect the gorilla tape with weather stripping might work or the Stans FR rim strips would as well.

if I get the chance I have been debating doing the split tube version but i prefer to have a repeatable ease of use system.

Hope someone has a better or bulletproof ideas here.

Great rims by the way, build up nice and true and easy to add tension to and stout without being too stiff.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Great hints - I searched for 'gorilla tape' and 'weather stripping' and found a few links.
- http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=537185.
- http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=6602717&postcount=15
- http://www.cantitoeroad.com/news/60/66/Tubeless-Conversion-for-a-WTB-Rim-with-a-Drop-Channel.php

So, from link 2 & 3, I gather the weather stripping is intended to fill in the volume of a deep inner channel? It's there so the 2nd layer of tape has a flat surface to adhere to? That makes me think I have to be careful of the width/thickness of the weather stripping.

I wonder how much that setup - with all the tape and weather stripping - ends up weighing.

I wonder which one withstands tire changes better - the tape/weather stripping, or the split tube. Never used either one. Just standard tubeless rims.

Also, I'll look into the Stans FR. They look wide enough - made for 35mm wheels. Think they can be used alone, or would they still need something to fill in the center channel?

--

rockcrusher, good to hear. I'm quite a clydesdale. I'm pretty much fated for rims like these, tubeless or not. :)
 

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I'm using the Gorilla tape method in my Blunts and, other than the fact that Nobby Nics are a pain to seal up, I've had no issues. The weather stripping isn't necessary on Blunts but it was on my Laser Disc Trails. Once you cut the appropriate length strip and hold it in your hand you won't be worried about weight anymore;) The stuff is LIGHT! I would say go for the weather stripping and Gorilla tape and you should be fine.

HINT: Put a about an inch wide strip of tape around each rim wall/bead and then do the center channel last. Leave enough Gorilla tape hanging over the edges of the rim that you'll need to cut it off with a hobby knife. Once all your taping is done, before you install the valve stem, put a tube and tire on the fresh setup and pump it up to 60lbs and leave it sit over night to help the stripping and the tape seat properly. Wait until the conversion is holding air overnight with sealant and then simply trim off the excess tape and go ride:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
good4nothing said:
I have a pair of MTX33 wheels, built by mike, and the Stans yellow tape that they came built with works fine.
Very cool.

I haven't done this stuff myself, so sorry for the nit-pick questions, but I want to make sure I have all the details right;
  • Which tape - the freeride wide rim style?
  • Just the tape, typical wrap, nothing extra?

Thanks.
 

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I emailed stans when I got the rims and they said:
Looks like the FR strips will fit.

Thanks,
Stan
NoTubes
but the promise of the yellow tape would be really nice, I just never seemed to be able to get them to grab on initial inflation. Might have had too much tape though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sweet.
I'm getting my wheels Thursday, and will have the bike built mid-next week. When I find out, I'll definitely post my experiences back to the thread.
 

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schnee said:
Very cool.

I haven't done this stuff myself, so sorry for the nit-pick questions, but I want to make sure I have all the details right;
  • Which tape - the freeride wide rim style?
  • Just the tape, typical wrap, nothing extra?

Thanks.
I'm not sure on the tape width, mine came built and already taped from Mike. It looked like a standard, single-wrap job when I set them up, but I didn't honestly pay that much attention.
 

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Figured I'd post my experiences. I tried with just they yellow tape, soap, and compressor. Bottom line, I just couldn't enough air volume through the presta valve to seat the bead. Instead I made rimstrips from 26" shrader tubes, removed teh valve cores, added stans, hit it with the compressor, and replaced the valve cores before all the air leaked out. After that it was just a matter of hand pumping it until the bead seated completely.
 

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SocalSuperhero said:
Figured I'd post my experiences. I tried with just they yellow tape, soap, and compressor. Bottom line, I just couldn't enough air volume through the presta valve to seat the bead. Instead I made rimstrips from 26" shrader tubes, removed teh valve cores, added stans, hit it with the compressor, and replaced the valve cores before all the air leaked out. After that it was just a matter of hand pumping it until the bead seated completely.
some presta tubes have removable valves too.
 

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I had the same experience with home style ghetto gorilla tape method. Couldn't get enough air through the bontrager valve stems that I had from a previous set of wheels. You really need a lot of air pressure to get the tire out of the center channel.

Stans recommended the FR strips, which come with schrader valves and I may give them a try. Especially cause I am debating ordering some dissents for my bike.
 

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rockcrusher said:
I just never seemed to be able to get them to grab on initial inflation.
Painting the beads with moldbuilder latex has never failed to air up first time... with a floor pump, including set-ups that were previously a super pain ever with my 175-psi, 30-gallon compressor.
I use it on every tubeless set-up I do. Can't beat it! :thumbsup:

 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got the bike back from the LBS, and the mechanics said they aired up just fine. No muss, no fuss, and just with the yellow tape. No back flips necessary.

I'll have to see if they burp on some harsh bumps, but they didn't get fazed when I slammed them into sharp curbs in my test ride around the block.

I'll follow up in a month or so with any more info.
 

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FYI the stans FR strip will not work. It is the right width uninstalled but once installed it stretches and gets thinner so no go.

I used the gorilla tape method and it worked well with rampages and with some intense tires. The WTB stouts however would not seat as they are too tight even with no tape. Perhaps they would work with a very thin layer of tape (stans yellow tape) but with gorilla tape it was no go as well.

So ghetto with removeable core valve stems I cut out of some old tubes worked well with these wheels and normal diameter tires. Will update again once my Dissents arrive.
 

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rockcrusher said:
FYI the stans FR strip will not work. It is the right width uninstalled but once installed it stretches and gets thinner so no go.

I used the gorilla tape method and it worked well with rampages and with some intense tires. The WTB stouts however would not seat as they are too tight even with no tape. Perhaps they would work with a very thin layer of tape (stans yellow tape) but with gorilla tape it was no go as well.

So ghetto with removeable core valve stems I cut out of some old tubes worked well with these wheels and normal diameter tires. Will update again once my Dissents arrive.
Interesting - I'm running Stans yellow tape without any problems, and both the kodiaks and dissents were pretty painless to get seated on the first shot. I was going to try the disent front/stout rear combo for a longer ride next weekend, and will report back
 

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good4nothing said:
Interesting - I'm running Stans yellow tape without any problems, and both the kodiaks and dissents were pretty painless to get seated on the first shot. I was going to try the disent front/stout rear combo for a longer ride next weekend, and will report back

I think the yellow tape is much thinner than the gorilla tape. I wish I had gotten a roll vs. the gorilla tape as they both cost about the same.

I had put about 60-70 psi in the stout as a test and it never popped onto the bead. I bet it would have had as it would seat fine with a tube and no gorilla tape. These rims are large, which makes sense as a FR/DH style rim.

I did do a long shake out run on them yesterday on a nice rocky trail and even just 20hr after being sealed up for the first time I had no burps or leaking of stans on the sidewall like I did with practically every other set I have set up in my life. So that is a really good sign.
 

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SocalSuperhero said:
Figured I'd post my experiences. I tried with just they yellow tape, soap, and compressor. Bottom line, I just couldn't enough air volume through the presta valve to seat the bead. Instead I made rimstrips from 26" shrader tubes, removed teh valve cores, added stans, hit it with the compressor, and replaced the valve cores before all the air leaked out. After that it was just a matter of hand pumping it until the bead seated completely.


Perhaps a picture is worth a 1000 words, the next time you are in there. BTW, thanks for being a pioneer with that Niner WFO, I wish I could be up there again for this Tuesdays VC races, they were a lot of fun!
 

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I was finally able to get my MTX 33s setup tubeless with Maxxis Ikons. It was kind of a pita. I had to wrap the tire with electrical tape to compress the bead and get it to take air. So far things are looking good. Setup it stans yellow tape, ikons and sealant.
 
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