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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I bought a "new-take-off" RS Reverb stealth post from a forum member on a different board.

Finally got it installed, used the RS bleed kit & that was easy enough.

But there is nearly an inch of up/down movement when I sit on the saddle. Same if i grab the bike by the saddle & lift, significant movement up as well.

I verified there is 250psi in the post as well.

Even though it's "new" I'm not the original buyer so......anything I can do or does it need to go back to RS?

Thanks!
 

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on the stealth, that usually means the inner seal head has come loose or sprung a leak.

The lower shaft needs to be removed, the inner seal head removed and the oil topped off. Check the IFP height while in there.

Reassemble and bleed the remote. If the post is more than a year old, a basic service kit is recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info.
So there is a basic rebuild kit for $8, or full for $36....?....

Only thing that worries me, very beginning of the SRAM video, they say if it's squishy (mine is doing exactly like the video shows) that it needs to be sent in...
 

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Thanks for the info.
So there is a basic rebuild kit for $8, or full for $36....?....

Only thing that worries me, very beginning of the SRAM video, they say if it's squishy (mine is doing exactly like the video shows) that it needs to be sent in...
The process I described is a short cut bleed for fairly new posts that sag. I've seen a few stealth post that had the inner seal head come lose. Its only part of the sram rebuild. Its a 1 hour job that requires special tools like the bleed kit, oil height tool, soft vise jaws, crowfoot wrenches, etc.

I very seldom see anyone needing a full kit unless there is excessive side to side play, which only needs fresh brass keys from the full kit. I'd go with the basic kit.

An average person can do it. If you don't care to spend 3 hours figuring it out, or afraid to mar the post surfaces disassembling, and live in Los Angeles, I can do a basic rebuild, a full bleed and turn it around overnight.

Oh, and I'm familiar with that compression blurb. I never had a problem after a full bleed on the ifp and internal cartridge.

West LA Bicycle - Venice - Venice, CA | Yelp
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The process I described is a short cut bleed for fairly new posts that sag. I've seen a few stealth post that had the inner seal head come lose. Its only part of the sram rebuild. Its a 1 hour job that requires special tools like the bleed kit, oil height tool, soft vise jaws, crowfoot wrenches, etc.

I very seldom see anyone needing a full kit unless there is excessive side to side play, which only needs fresh brass keys from the full kit. I'd go with the basic kit.

An average person can do it. If you don't care to spend 3 hours figuring it out, or afraid to mar the post surfaces disassembling, and live in Los Angeles, I can do a basic rebuild, a full bleed and turn it around overnight.

Oh, and I'm familiar with that compression blurb. I never had a problem after a full bleed on the ifp and internal cartridge.

West LA Bicycle - Venice - Venice, CA | Yelp
Thanks again!
Got it apart and the fluid that was in there was foamy.....installed the basic kit, put back together, seems solid!

Appreciate the advice!
Jeff
 

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on the stealth, that usually means the inner seal head has come loose or sprung a leak.
The lower shaft needs to be removed, the inner seal head removed and the oil topped off. Check the IFP height while in there.
Reassemble and bleed the remote. If the post is more than a year old, a basic service kit is recommended.
My post is doing the same thing. I can press it down about 5mm. So, to do this procedure do I need the RockShox Reverb Bleed Tool, RockShox Reverb IFP Height Tool and RockShox Reverb Oil Height Tools?
 

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My post is doing the same thing. I can press it down about 5mm. So, to do this procedure do I need the RockShox Reverb Bleed Tool, RockShox Reverb IFP Height Tool and RockShox Reverb Oil Height Tools?
The stealth and the standard post are a little different. The stealth doesnt need the RS height tool but does need a standard oil height tool. Check the service manual on Rockshox website for a complete list. YOU WILL NEED A VISE AND SHAFT CLAMPS. If in West LA, I'm having a winter discount on mtb services, I'll do it for less than the cost of the tools :) West LA Bicycle - Venice - Venice, CA | Yelp
 

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The stealth and the standard post are a little different. The stealth doesnt need the RS height tool but does need a standard oil height tool. Check the service manual on Rockshox website for a complete list. YOU WILL NEED A VISE AND SHAFT CLAMPS. If in West LA, I'm having a winter discount on mtb services, I'll do it for less than the cost of the tools :) West LA Bicycle - Venice - Venice, CA | Yelp
Thanks for helping me figure this out.

I am up in the PNW. I do have a Stealth, so if I understand correctly, I just need the oil height and the bleed tools? I do have a vice and shaft clamps, tools, etc...
 

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Thanks for helping me figure this out.

I am up in the PNW. I do have a Stealth, so if I understand correctly, I just need the oil height and the bleed tools? I do have a vice and shaft clamps, tools, etc...
page 6 here has the complete list. https://www.sram.com/sites/default/...00000004211_service_manual_reverb_stealth.pdf

you do need the Reverb IFP height tool, and you will need a fluid height tool as well, which is not a Rockshox made product. Amazon.com: Motion Pro 08-0121 Fork Oil Level Tool: Automotive
 

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Thanks for the info.
So there is a basic rebuild kit for $8, or full for $36....?....

Only thing that worries me, very beginning of the SRAM video, they say if it's squishy (mine is doing exactly like the video shows) that it needs to be sent in...
Been there done that. Took 3 weeks to get back.
 

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Aaaand it's doing the same thing again after a week of exercise in Pisgah.....
This thing is starting to tick me off....
You got a full 10 months on it. Generally, I rebuild the post once a year. If the squishiness is minor, lots of miles can cause your issue. Much like a fork, the post needs tlc quite after so many service hours. I'd try another rebuild with the basic kit. If it last another 10 months, then thats your cycle. If it needs bleeds every couple of months, you've got bigger issues.

Lastly, I saw a couple of posts and one now with me losing air from the bottom. Check the o-ring and valve core for leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You might have scratches on the IFP tube (inner tube) that is causing air to leak into the oil.
Everything looked perfect inside last time, I'll look closely at it again though.

You got a full 10 months on it. Generally, I rebuild the post once a year. If the squishiness is minor, lots of miles can cause your issue. Much like a fork, the post needs tlc quite after so many service hours. I'd try another rebuild with the basic kit. If it last another 10 months, then thats your cycle. If it needs bleeds every couple of months, you've got bigger issues.

Lastly, I saw a couple of posts and one now with me losing air from the bottom. Check the o-ring and valve core for leaks.
You have a point there. I service my forks and shocks at least that often, guess I should plan on the post too.

After driving 8 hours back from bike trip, there was some mysterious oil on the bottom of my frame.....
hoping it didn't come out of the post we'll see once it's been delivered home.

Thanks guys
 

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on the stealth, that usually means the inner seal head has come loose or sprung a leak.

The lower shaft needs to be removed, the inner seal head removed and the oil topped off. Check the IFP height while in there.

Reassemble and bleed the remote. If the post is more than a year old, a basic service kit is recommended.
Hey man, i am unaware of this technique, i thought the squish needed the full job, im a mechanic in Canada, does an oil top off need the speciality tools as well? I have a couple clients with squish, normally i send in the post to be serviced but would love to do it myself. thanks man
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Old post bump.

I've since moved away from these crappy posts.

Have a Lev on one bike and Brand X on another. Both zero issues, don't need rebuild after only a year. Just a fresh cable and done.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
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