Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
GONE
Joined
·
26,840 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 RP3 that has recently started doing something a little strange.

It seems that I have to keep the air pressure higher in order to reach a proper sag measurement. NO! I am not gaining weight, LOL!!!

I weigh 170-175. I usually ran about 175PSI in the shock, then it went up to 180 to reach the same sag measurement. Now it takes 190+PSI....

Also, it lost about 15PSI over the last 10 or so rides. I tend to think of this as a normal loss.

Any suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,266 Posts
as air shocks and forks break in, i've found that I have to add a little air to maintain the same feel. however, since your shock is a couple of years old, it maybe time for a seal service/preventative maintenance.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
16,457 Posts
To the OP,

Try this: best way is to remove the shock from the frame. Remove all the air from the main chamber. Does the damper shaft go into the body? It's ok for a few mm's, but beyond that, you have an overpressurized negative chamber. Can be helped sometimes with a simple relube of the air chamber (when was the last time you did that?) or installing new seals and lube.
 

·
GONE
Joined
·
26,840 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Jerk_Chicken said:
To the OP,

Try this: best way is to remove the shock from the frame. Remove all the air from the main chamber. Does the damper shaft go into the body? It's ok for a few mm's, but beyond that, you have an overpressurized negative chamber. Can be helped sometimes with a simple relube of the air chamber (when was the last time you did that?) or installing new seals and lube.
I will try your recommendation. Does relubing the air chamber involve disassembly? If so, it's taking a ride to PUSH for a rebuild!

Thanks guys!
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
16,457 Posts
Relubing the air chamber is a simple job, so long as it's not stuck down. Even so, it's only a couple more steps and some safety precautions to be followed. It's as easy as unscrewing the air chamber (after deflating) and that's it. Clean inside, then relube with either shock oil, automotive gear oil, or otherwise.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
16,457 Posts
Float Fluid is really thick, like 80wt gear oil. I prefer to use shock oil, but it does weep through the seals a bit faster. For cold weather riding, I don't dig it at all.

Some use Prep M or slick honey, something I don't like other than to put on the seals and glide rings.
 

·
GONE
Joined
·
26,840 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
RP3 now DOA

"Your Honor, the jury has reached a verdict."

"We jury find the defendant, RP3, guilty of suck down syndrome."

I let all of the air out of the shock and it sucked all the way in!

So....

"High-ho, high-ho, it's off to PUSH I go, to get all new seals for a really good deal, high-ho, high-ho!" ....sings my DOA shock!

Rider down and out for now...

A-hawg (boo-ho!)
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
16,457 Posts
It's not too hard to release the air in the negative. Basically, put a rag underneath the can, or remove the reducers on the bottom, insert a tool in the top eyelet (no need to remove the reducers, and then put the lower eyelet against a carpet, teeshirt, or anything to cushion it. Turn the can slowly and the pressure will release as the can shoots down. It's not with tremendous force, but enough for you to want to protect it from getting damaged.
 

·
Calm Like a Bomb
Joined
·
2,092 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,373 Posts
I got my RP3 back from push 2 weeks ago - it was blowing throu the end of it's travel stroke too easily, regardless of the psi I ran in it. I got the whole Pro Service and man it was worth it. Super smooth now, active on small stuff and now doesn't give in on bigger hits like it was before.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top