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Equal opportunity meanie
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2,781 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my R9 frame is now sitting in my garage since it has some odd flex in the chainstay that didn't used to be there. This is the (hopefully) suitable replacement. It is the one on the right, and the one on the left is that of JBaltaxe - rewelded by Turner.



She's stiff and fast, that's for sure. Already getting back up to speed quick on it and should be pushing things a bit more shortly. First ride on it was pretty tentative as I was on a new bike on new terrain and far undersprung, but it did decently. A better shock and more appropriate springrate and this thing just took off.

It should tide me over until FTW/Sinster has a VST offering....
 

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Glad to Be Alive
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43,010 Posts
worst pics I have seen....do the bike some justice and take some nice pics or bring it to my house and I will take some nice pics......that bike color is strait pimp.....gold with sparkles sounds dumb but it looks so rad
 

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Slap happy crappiness
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1,090 Posts
It was a good time riding with you down here. Sorry I was being a baby and sick.
And sweet new rig!
Question, what Teflon product did you use to treat your fork? And what did you do exactly? It was by far the smoothest feeling 888 I've ever felt, makes me want to give my 40 some Teflon love.
 

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Equal opportunity meanie
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2,781 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, Iphone picture. I just need to find some time when I have daylight to get it up on the hill with some sunset lighting. The gold does look just rad.

I am worried about it getting all f'ed up in SLO though. Might have to put some 3M tape on the downtube or something.

Fred, no worries man, we'll have to get together again soon.

The Teflon thing is mostly applied to the inside walls of the air cartridge, which doesn't help you much. It won't help in the oil either since you cartridge is closed (and you don't want to be running Teflon through a shimmed damper as it will gunk up the small spaces). What you can do is clean off your stanchions real real good with acetone, don't spray it down into the seals as it eats rubber, but just wipe down your sliding surfaces, then go get some Silicone Teflon spray at Lowe's/Home Depot (I believe it's made by DuPont) and wipe that onto the stanchions. The last thing I do is drop a tiny bit of 15w-20w motor oil down into the seals (remove the steel ring from the dust wiper and pry back the lip to let it seep down) and cycle the fork a bunch of times. I do this after every ride or so and it keeps the seal drag to almost nothing. It works well on the 40's too.
 

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Equal opportunity meanie
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2,781 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I do still own a Sinister Splinter MX. That is still probably the most versatile and innovative bike I have ridden to date. Nor am I getting rid of the R9, though I don't really ride it anymore...

Turners/Sinisters = just too nice to get rid of.
 

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Registered
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3,183 Posts
DHidiot said:
Yeah, Iphone picture. I just need to find some time when I have daylight to get it up on the hill with some sunset lighting. The gold does look just rad.

I am worried about it getting all f'ed up in SLO though. Might have to put some 3M tape on the downtube or something.

Fred, no worries man, we'll have to get together again soon.

The Teflon thing is mostly applied to the inside walls of the air cartridge, which doesn't help you much. It won't help in the oil either since you cartridge is closed (and you don't want to be running Teflon through a shimmed damper as it will gunk up the small spaces). What you can do is clean off your stanchions real real good with acetone, don't spray it down into the seals as it eats rubber, but just wipe down your sliding surfaces, then go get some Silicone Teflon spray at Lowe's/Home Depot (I believe it's made by DuPont) and wipe that onto the stanchions. The last thing I do is drop a tiny bit of 15w-20w motor oil down into the seals (remove the steel ring from the dust wiper and pry back the lip to let it seep down) and cycle the fork a bunch of times. I do this after every ride or so and it keeps the seal drag to almost nothing. It works well on the 40's too.
2 years riding a 2001 Monster T on the old DHR and never any maint except the 1 time a year oil change thats riding alot Tunnel 2-3 times a month and mutiple grade runs! I cant believe how anal you are. But forks now a days just aren't as durable.
 

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Equal opportunity meanie
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2,781 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ianjenn said:
2 years riding a 2001 Monster T on the old DHR and never any maint except the 1 time a year oil change thats riding alot Tunnel 2-3 times a month and mutiple grade runs! I cant believe how anal you are. But forks now a days just aren't as durable.
The best you've ridden is the best you know!

Also the old Monsters ran more oil than the newer forks do on their spring side and stayed lubricated better...that upper bushing doesn't see much splash from the <50cc of oil on that side.
 

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Equal opportunity meanie
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2,781 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ianjenn said:
Floodgates, platforms, HS, LS, COMP... all BS its all about shims and springs!
HS/LS comp is shim based.....but Marzocchi has never had shims in their DH forks. Just a spring loaded ball valve with adjsutable preload and the oil height for bottom-out.
 

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Equal opportunity meanie
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2,781 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Rb said:
Tried telling ScottyJ that.......................

:rolleyes: ;)
Don't worry, his old R9 is in good hands at the moment....it has a Splinter companion with its current owner.

Besides, that guy goes through bikes like cheap whores go through rubbers.
 

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Banned
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1,391 Posts
DHidiot said:
Don't worry, his old R9 is in good hands at the moment....it has a Splinter companion with its current owner.

Besides, that guy goes through bikes like cheap whores go through rubbers.
to bad cheap whores don't use rubbers. retard:thumbsup:
 
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