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Class Clown
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3,773 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Removed bolts and did the tap. Have compression damper and air side topcap out. I believe it is the airside that is the problem. I cannot compress the fork all the way. Tried putting the bolt and topcap back and pumping air.

Seems like I need to relieve the pressure somehow. My guess is air stuck in the chamber, negative chamber? If I remove the lower leg bolt and push against the air side rod it pushes back.

Not sure what to do next.
 

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Class Clown
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3,773 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
PHP:
I was able to get the pump to work pumped it up to about 130, let it down to 70 and cycled the fork a few times, then released air. Same issue though can't compress fork all the way and lowers stuck on.
 

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I typically leave the forks extended, let the air out unscrew the bolt half way. I then put a foldable hex tool in the bolt and give it a good whack. The foldable tool give a nice area. If that does not work, put your thumb where the stanchions meet the lowers and hold the fork from compressing, with the air out of the fork, a good whack or two should push the bolt inward towards the lowers.
 

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Class Clown
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3,773 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
managed to push both the rebound damper and air spring out the top of the fork and the dang thing still wouldn't budge. Knowing there wasn't much left internally I used a little persuasion (ie rubber mallet) and finally got them off! This was a lot harder than it should have been as I've done this before. Maybe cause the bikes been sitting all winter.

In any case I think all my air pressure ideas were bogus and it just needed a little force, as I know I tapped those bolts good!

I think it was my relative inexperience with air forks that had me worried I was missing a step. In any case maybe this will help someone in the future (probably not).
 

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Ouch, that looks like the coating and anodizing have been eaten up. There isn't much you can do to fix it if that's the case... Is that where dust seals sit, or where bushing contact stanchions inside?
 

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Class Clown
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3,773 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Looks like it happened just above the lower bushings. I have a few ideas from some threads so I will attempt to get rid of the buildup and put some protection over the area. At least it is deeper in the fork and won't be going past the seals. Ultimately I'll probably get a new CSU though.

I took this bike out for maybe 1 or 2 rides in the snow this past winter and cleaned it after. So yeah only beater bike for winter streets from now on.
 

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Class Clown
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3,773 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK so here's what happened next...

Used 220 sandpaper to get rid of the buildup.

Taped off the area then applied JB Weld using razor blade. Let is setup for a half hour and removed tape. Thinned JB Weld very carefully by hand.

Waited a day and began sanding, going from 400 to 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and lastly 2500 grit. This took a good while to get it smooth enough to slide through the bushings. I wouldn't say it was perfect but pretty good.

Reassembled everything, some superslick grease on bushings and 15wt lowers oil. From testing by hand fork feels pretty darn smooth and I doubt I could tell the difference from when I first got it.

Not sure what Time will think of my repair. Looked into new CSU but it's better just to get a new fork and swap in my upgraded dampers. I also decided to change travel down to 100.

Ok, now pics.
 

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Class Clown
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3,773 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Looks fine as do bushings and is still smooth. Glad it's on the inside :)

One thing I would have done differently is a lighter coat of jb weld. The coat was pretty light actually but not compared to bushing tolerances and it takes a good while to sand that stuff. But that just says it's strong and should hold up fine.

Can't tell on the trails rides like it always has, but still gnaws my brain sometimes.
 
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