Hey guys, I'm hoping to get some help with an issue I've been having with my 2018 Rockshock 160mm Pike RC Solo Air where my stanchions are stuck mid-travel into the lowers. It's less than a year old now and Rockshox told me to open a warranty claim with the seller I got it, but I'd prefer to solve this myself if possible. For some context, this occurred in pretty low temperatures (0 deg F) on a casual ride with my trial pup and I've noticed other cases that happened in lower temps as well.
I've noticed that this has occurred to a few people with their solo air RS forks, but I'm having trouble narrowing down my options to a definite solution. And just to point out, I did a ton of research and tried many options before posting this and I understand that there is air trapped in the negative chamber of the fork. :madman:
The methods that I've found and tried are as follows:
Burping the negative chamber with a zip tie through the fork seals
This method involves taking a zip tie and carefully pushing it through the seals into the lowers to relieve any pressure built up in the negative chamber. Done to both the damper and air spring side, you can hear an audible hiss come out as the zip tie breaches the seal. While this does work, I believe it is intended for smaller build ups of pressure (~5PSI). Note that there are different theories on how this should be done regarding if the fork should be pressurized to normal pressures or with zero PSI in it (burp with the fork extended or not). I have tried both methods to no avail.
Add PSI until the fork is fully extended and slowly release pressure
This method involves slowly adding pressure to the fork via a shock pump until the fork is fully extended and then slowly releasing all pressure to allow positive and negative chambers to equalize. I personally did not pay mind to max PSI values as I assume that these correlate to the max PSI without load, so I added approximately 80 PSI passed the max value of 163 PSI to get the fork fully extended. I followed instruction and using a shock pump, slowly reduced the pressure in the fork until there was none left in the fork. This had zero effect on the issue I was facing, though. Was I supposed to use a zip tie and burp the seals as I reduced the pressure?
A firm pull
As simple as it sounds, this seems to have the best success rate. It involves removing the wheel, reinstalling the axle, and then pulling the lowers as hard as possible until an audible pop can be heard and the fork is fixed. I tried this, but I didn't want to cause potential issues and risk the fork by pulling too hard. I've noted that this method requires significant force to be feasible. I don't mind doing this but wanted to consult here to ensure it's a safe bet.
I would be willing to service the fork as I've raced it for a season and rode a lot otherwise, but I'm a college student and it's hard to find time to get out on the trails let alone service my fork. I will, however, prioritize a service if it's the safest method to fix this and avoid any risk of damaging the fork.
Thanks in advance for any help and advice. I just want to (safely) get back on the trails as the weather warms up! :thumbsup:

I've noticed that this has occurred to a few people with their solo air RS forks, but I'm having trouble narrowing down my options to a definite solution. And just to point out, I did a ton of research and tried many options before posting this and I understand that there is air trapped in the negative chamber of the fork. :madman:
The methods that I've found and tried are as follows:
Burping the negative chamber with a zip tie through the fork seals
This method involves taking a zip tie and carefully pushing it through the seals into the lowers to relieve any pressure built up in the negative chamber. Done to both the damper and air spring side, you can hear an audible hiss come out as the zip tie breaches the seal. While this does work, I believe it is intended for smaller build ups of pressure (~5PSI). Note that there are different theories on how this should be done regarding if the fork should be pressurized to normal pressures or with zero PSI in it (burp with the fork extended or not). I have tried both methods to no avail.
Add PSI until the fork is fully extended and slowly release pressure
This method involves slowly adding pressure to the fork via a shock pump until the fork is fully extended and then slowly releasing all pressure to allow positive and negative chambers to equalize. I personally did not pay mind to max PSI values as I assume that these correlate to the max PSI without load, so I added approximately 80 PSI passed the max value of 163 PSI to get the fork fully extended. I followed instruction and using a shock pump, slowly reduced the pressure in the fork until there was none left in the fork. This had zero effect on the issue I was facing, though. Was I supposed to use a zip tie and burp the seals as I reduced the pressure?
A firm pull
As simple as it sounds, this seems to have the best success rate. It involves removing the wheel, reinstalling the axle, and then pulling the lowers as hard as possible until an audible pop can be heard and the fork is fixed. I tried this, but I didn't want to cause potential issues and risk the fork by pulling too hard. I've noted that this method requires significant force to be feasible. I don't mind doing this but wanted to consult here to ensure it's a safe bet.
I would be willing to service the fork as I've raced it for a season and rode a lot otherwise, but I'm a college student and it's hard to find time to get out on the trails let alone service my fork. I will, however, prioritize a service if it's the safest method to fix this and avoid any risk of damaging the fork.
Thanks in advance for any help and advice. I just want to (safely) get back on the trails as the weather warms up! :thumbsup: