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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 Rockshox lyrik fork with 20mm travel spacer and fresh overhaul kit on the air and damper side. The fork rides horrible when riding fast single tracks; does well with small drops and large bumps. The fork feels horrible at high speeds over small bumpy trails. I would just like some input from anyone with this fork or help rectifying this issue. I also played around with the sag, air and rebound, but it has given me minimal results. Please help me I'm lost!:madman:

Thanks
 

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I have a 2011 Rockshox lyrik fork with 20mm travel spacer and fresh overhaul kit on the air and damper side. The fork rides horrible when riding fast single tracks; does well with small drops and large bumps. The fork feels horrible at high speeds over small bumpy trails. I would just like some input from anyone with this fork or help rectifying this issue. I also played around with the sag, air and rebound, but it has given me minimal results. Please help me I'm lost!:madman:

Thanks
What model do you have? 170mm? What are your HSC/LSC settings? What is your damper oil height?
 

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Did it work better before the overhaul, or is this a "new to you" fork that doesn't feel right?
Things to note or check, not in any specific order.
1. was the right weight oil used? Maybe it was and you had a lighter weight oil in it before? Different oil weights will affect performance. Too thick and you will end up with poor small bump sensitivity.
2. turn the HSC and LSC to full open (counter clockwise) and see how it rides.
3. does it have the floodgate? If so is it turned on? If you don't use it, consider removing it. There are how to videos on removing it. You won't have it with the DH damper.
4. Try burping the fork. The fork should be assembled in the fully extended position. If it's compressed any amount when putting in the top caps or bolts to the lowers you can get into a place where the lowers will have additional pressure, and the damper will have a vacuum when extended. This will lead to bad fork performance. If I suspect this on my fork, I will remove the damper, fully extend the fork, then tighten the damper. Then flip the fork upside down, and remove the two bolts from the lowers, pushing rods in slightly to equalize air pressure, then put the bolts back in.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Did it work better before the overhaul, or is this a "new to you" fork that doesn't feel right?
Things to note or check, not in any specific order.
1. was the right weight oil used? Maybe it was and you had a lighter weight oil in it before? Different oil weights will affect performance. Too thick and you will end up with poor small bump sensitivity.
2. turn the HSC and LSC to full open (counter clockwise) and see how it rides.
3. does it have the floodgate? If so is it turned on? If you don't use it, consider removing it. There are how to videos on removing it. You won't have it with the DH damper.
4. Try burping the fork. The fork should be assembled in the fully extended position. If it's compressed any amount when putting in the top caps or bolts to the lowers you can get into a place where the lowers will have additional pressure, and the damper will have a vacuum when extended. This will lead to bad fork performance. If I suspect this on my fork, I will remove the damper, fully extend the fork, then tighten the damper. Then flip the fork upside down, and remove the two bolts from the lowers, pushing rods in slightly to equalize air pressure, then put the bolts back in.

HTH
Yes, this is a new to me fork with overhauled seals. The fork just does not feel right at all! The fork was rebuilt using sram's tech manual with no deviation from the instructions. The lyrik is a R type with only rebound adjust. I may have to try burping the fork. Thanks for the help I will have to burp the fork tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What model do you have? 170mm? What are your HSC/LSC settings? What is your damper oil height?
It's a 2011 160mm R with the factory 10mm travel spacer and rebound adjust. My understanding is that the 2011 160mm fork is a 170mm with a 10mm spacer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Does the burping method give any indication when done such as a hissing or popping sound! I extended the fork all the way and opened the damper cap and did not hear an air seal breaking sound or hissing noise. Thanks everyone for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oil levels and weights are up to srams tech manual specs. I did use spectro fork oil too, if that makes a difference.
 

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Does the burping method give any indication when done such as a hissing or popping sound! I extended the fork all the way and opened the damper cap and did not hear an air seal breaking sound or hissing noise. Thanks everyone for the input.
It depends. I've had a few where I unscrewed a lower leg bolt or the damper and hear a hiss, others have made no sound.
your fork may actually not need a burp, but it's one more thing you can verify and cross of the troubleshooting list.
My Lyrik for feels like ass compared to my Rev dual lair. This weekend I dropped the PSI to 70. It made a huge difference. I'm about 225lbs ready to ride, and that psi is quite a bit lower than the SRAM recommended pressure. I did one drop that was about 5' to flat and did not bottom the fork, but came very close.
What is your weight and PSI?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It depends. I've had a few where I unscrewed a lower leg bolt or the damper and hear a hiss, others have made no sound.
your fork may actually not need a burp, but it's one more thing you can verify and cross of the troubleshooting list.
My Lyrik for feels like ass compared to my Rev dual lair. This weekend I dropped the PSI to 70. It made a huge difference. I'm about 225lbs ready to ride, and that psi is quite a bit lower than the SRAM recommended pressure. I did one drop that was about 5' to flat and did not bottom the fork, but came very close.
What is your weight and PSI?
Interesting, I did burp my forks and no hiss or sound. One thing that I was going over when I rebuilt the fork is the possibility that the grease I used to lube the seals was not suspension oils soluble (maxima NLGI #2 grease). I was thinking that this could be a reason?

My riding weight is 196lbs @ 65-55 psi. Drops feel decent, but fast small single track bumps feels horrible. I will open the fork up tomorrow and clean the grease off. I do have 20mm travel spacer. Could this be the issue? I really do appreciate the help. Thanks.
 

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Interesting, I did burp my forks and no hiss or sound. One thing that I was going over when I rebuilt the fork is the possibility that the grease I used to lube the seals was not suspension oils soluble (maxima NLGI #2 grease). I was thinking that this could be a reason?

My riding weight is 196lbs @ 65-55 psi. Drops feel decent, but fast small single track bumps feels horrible. I will open the fork up tomorrow and clean the grease off. I do have 20mm travel spacer. Could this be the issue? I really do appreciate the help. Thanks.
The grease issue is worth exploring. My RS forks feel like ass after a rebuild because of it. In my case it goes away by the end of the first ride however.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The grease issue is worth exploring. My RS forks feel like ass after a rebuild because of it. In my case it goes away by the end of the first ride however.
I have two rides on the rebuild and was hoping it was a break-in issue, but the issue still linger. I will drain and clean the forks tomorrow. Will report back if I find any abnormalities.
 

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That grease doesn't look like it would be appropriate to lube the seals/wipers.
Use Slick Honey. You can also try dropping some fork oil in between the wipers and stanchions to see if that helps. When I do it, the forks feel super smooth for about a mile, then the oil goes away. It would be a quick way to see if the grease is the problem, without having to take the fork apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That grease doesn't look like it would be appropriate to lube the seals/wipers.
Use Slick Honey. You can also try dropping some fork oil in between the wipers and stanchions to see if that helps. When I do it, the forks feel super smooth for about a mile, then the oil goes away. It would be a quick way to see if the grease is the problem, without having to take the fork apart.
I think the grease was a bad choice. I will try the fork oil trick and if it yields no results a full clean and fill will be in order. Using slick honey this time for sure :thumbsup:
 

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If the grease is not the problem, try going to a thinner oil in the damper. All weights are not equal. One companies 5 may be another companies 7.
I use 2.5wt in all my forks to help with small bump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If the grease is not the problem, try going to a thinner oil in the damper. All weights are not equal. One companies 5 may be another companies 7.
I use 2.5wt in all my forks to help with small bump.
I'm getting the feeling that this fork may not suit my single track needs. I was talking to a bike tech who told me the lytik fork is an aggressive fork and may not give me the buttery plush ride that I'm looking for on fast single tracks.

The oil bit is worth a try. I have spectro 5 wt in there right now. I have heard others love this fork and say how smooth and plush it can be. I on the other hand have not experienced this. I hate to go back to my 32 talas (tooth pick fork) that trek fits on new remedy's now.

I could be wrong? let me know.
 

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I, and probably many other riders, can assure you it can be buttery smooth. I would expect a longer travel fork to always be smoother, it's got more travel to work with.
Here's the list of things I think you could to to change the fork performance.
1. thinner oil
2. enduro fork seals
3. get the DH damper/rebound
4. if still not satisfied sell it or convert it to coil
I went from a coil, which was buttery smooth, to a solo-air, which is less smooth. Last week I ordered the parts to convert my air to a coil, though dropping the PSI this weekend really made a difference in how it felt.
 

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Did you use the same grease on the air spring O rings as you did the seals? Using the correct grease is a big deal. If you regular grease, it drys up rather quickly and turns to a glue like texture.

The other thing that comes to mind is that the air piston is not letting the negative air chamber fill. That would cause a very harsh ride, most noticeably over smaller bumps.

I second the move to coil as well. The small bump sensitivity and mid stroke support are worth the added weight. The low maintenance is an added bonus as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I, and probably many other riders, can assure you it can be buttery smooth. I would expect a longer travel fork to always be smoother, it's got more travel to work with.
Here's the list of things I think you could to to change the fork performance.
1. thinner oil
2. enduro fork seals
3. get the DH damper/rebound
4. if still not satisfied sell it or convert it to coil
I went from a coil, which was buttery smooth, to a solo-air, which is less smooth. Last week I ordered the parts to convert my air to a coil, though dropping the PSI this weekend really made a difference in how it felt.
Thanks for the info. I will look into these options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Did you use the same grease on the air spring O rings as you did the seals? Using the correct grease is a big deal. If you regular grease, it drys up rather quickly and turns to a glue like texture.

The other thing that comes to mind is that the air piston is not letting the negative air chamber fill. That would cause a very harsh ride, most noticeably over smaller bumps.

I second the move to coil as well. The small bump sensitivity and mid stroke support are worth the added weight. The low maintenance is an added bonus as well.
Okay, I pulled the forks apart this afternoon and cleaned all of the grease on the seals and suspension parts. The grease did not look like it was turning to a glue like texture, but I only have two rides on the rebuild. I cleaned it up and re-oiled burped and sealed her up. Fork feels fine on the street, but the trail will be the real test this weekend.

How can I rule out if the air piston is not letting the negative air chamber fill? Coil does sound pretty plush!
 

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I run the Lyrik a few psi below recommended as well. I was doing quite a lot of aggressive riding this weekend on the lifts. I think the Lyrik is a bit overdamped for normal xc-type riding. For aggressive xc, I'm a Revelation guy every day. When the going points down (and points down for a long time), I'm a huge fan of the Lyrik.

Good luck with your issues. I think you can solve without going to coil. Having air is so nice if you ride in a variety of places like I do.

mk
 
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