[SurgeTheScurge]

Hi I wanted to put road gears, cranks and derailers on a mtb frame. I would like to use this bike for touring.

I have not purchased the mtb frame yet, but know for a fact that it will be a rigid frame.

Does anyone have any experience in this or advice?

Suggestions for frames and parts would also be great.

btw I am looking to spend maybe 200$ on a frame.

 

[Call_me_Clyde]

My understanding

Please recognize that Icould be leading you down the wrong path here, but my understanding is that the f & r derailleur and the cassette shouldn't be a problem. With regard to cranks, check the bb shell dimensions to see if a road bb and crankset will fit. The other issue is shifters. It could be that the handlebar diameters are different than mtb handlebar diameters, so road shiters might not fit.

I know there are people on this board who have experience with road components on MTB's as this is where I have my understanding of the issues as a result of reading their posts. Hopefully, my recollection is true. In any event with any luck someone with first hand experience will be along to confirm my suspicions or correct me.

Let us know how things pan out. I'd be interested in a definitive answer, too.

Good luck in the build.

Bob

 

[SurgeTheScurge]

thanks. Hopefully someone will post there experiences, as I am not sure where to start.

 

[Bikinfoolferlife]

Why not just get a touring or cyclocross frame? More suitable to the purpose stated, or do you have other uses for the bike than touring? That's a pretty low price point for a quality frame of any kind.

 

[FrozenK]

Regarding cranks, beside BB shell width, you may have issues with chainring size clearance. Road cranks come with a 39T or so middle ring, MTB cranks are 32T so you may have problems with the middle ring rubbing against the chainstay. You could always use a longer BB spindle than recommended, but that (c)would mess up your chainline. Or you could use a smaller middle ring. Now, if you are planning on using a triple road crankset on a MTB frame, I am almost certain you'll have problems with the small ring (likely to be in the 30T range) clearing the frame.

As for cassette and derailleurs, the cassette would work just fine. The rear derailleur would work just fine, some people actually use them. Front deraillleur should fit, not sure if perhaps the clamp size could be an issue. Shifters, road bars do have a different diameter, so if you want to use STI shifter/brake levers you will need to run a road drop bar (which you would be doing anyway if you are running those levers). But, keep in mind that road levers have a different throw, so if you run a road bar/lever combo you will have to run adapters to use v-brakes (you can always use cantis or road discs) Mountainbike shifters are compatible with rear road derailleurs (provided you are not using a 10 spd road system)

Now, what I am not sure is why use road gears on a mountainbike. Specifically, road cranks, other than the big ring, you won't have a signifficant gain. If you want to use road components, I would go with a road frame, a touring or ciclocross frame will likely work better for you than a MTB frame. I'd look at Nashbar's touring frame (you can get it for 200 bucks with the fork) and use strong cross wheels. Me 2 pennies.

 

[SurgeTheScurge]

Thank you everyone.

The main reason for me wanting a mtb frame is because I like the geometry(sp?) of the frames. The posture needed for a road bike is uncomfortable and seems dangerous for a long tour.

I checked out the Nashbar touring frame and it looks great, but unfortunatly I am too short . I need like a 46-47cm frame.

The main reason I want road components is so I can get up to high speeds that are not possible with what I have seen offered for mtb's.

 

[Hecubus]

I think you're better off getting a touring frame. Besides possible chainline issues its very likely a road crankset will not clear a MTB frame. Also depending on what shifter and derailleur combo you use, road front derrailleurs have a different cable pull ration than MTB. Rear will be no problem if you mix and match derailleurs/shifters.

 

[Bikinfoolferlife]

How do road components get higher speeds on an mtb frame/wheels? You plan on spinning out in a 53x12 often? You can achieve a fairly high gear with mountain gruppos, especially for the purposes of touring (you'll need the lower rather than higher gears; gravity will do plenty when you point a loaded tourer downhill).

 

[SurgeTheScurge]

I have not seen too many bikes with 53x12 gearing, could you point me towards some parts or manufacturers?

Thank you everyone, I am learning more everyday I'm here

 

[Bikinfoolferlife]

53x12 is a fairly common high gear on road bikes. What road components you have in mind?

 

[shiggy]

Most touring bikes, whether they use 26" mtb wheels or 700c road wheels, use mtb components. Better suited to the demands of extended touring.

You can use road STI dropbar levers with mtb derailleurs if you want.

 

[shabbasuraj]

Ultegra RD works great on some of my XC race setups...

Been there done that.

 

[SurgeTheScurge]

I was thinking of going with a SHIMANO ULTEGRA 6500 CRANKSET with 53/39 gearing. Does anyone know of any cheap mtb frames that would accomidate this?

shabbasuraj how do you like that derailer? I read some pretty dodgy reviews on it.

 

[LyNx]

I was thinking of going with a SHIMANO ULTEGRA 6500 CRANKSET with 53/39 gearing. Does anyone know of any cheap mtb frames that would accomidate this?

shabbasuraj how do you like that derailer? I read some pretty dodgy reviews on it.

Not to sound nasty or anything, but ...Have you read and understood any of the replies you recieved??
MTB frames aren't made to accomodate that big of chainrings, they will not turn as they will hit the chainstays. AND the 53/12 gear combo refers to the front ring and rear cog which is a 1:4.46 ratio and MTB 44/11 combo gives you a 1:4 ratio and I'll be you wouldn't as said spin that out too much.

As said MTB gearing is better suited to touring - if you're actually refering correctly to what you wish to do - as a loaded down bike will need to have the low gearing that MTBs usually have. If you really want slightly bigger gearing check out Shimano's actual touring crankset which runs a 48/36/26 ring combo and is actually made specifically as a touring crankset - this "may" actually fit a rigid MTB frame.

 

[SurgeTheScurge]

I'm sorry I responded after getting back from new years and was not in the right mindset.

Based on everyones recomendations I think maybe a TRUVATIV HUSSEFELT CRANKSET with 22/32/44 gearing, If need be I will just change the cog to a bigger one.

Thanks everyone, and sorry for some of the dumb ass responses.

 

[cmdrpiffle]

it's the small chainring....

The little chainring is going to be the issue on some mtb frames. If it's too big, it can hit the chainstay. That said....

I run a 48/36/28 just fine on my mt bike. With a 48 tooth chainring, and say...an 11 in the rear...you should have plenty of stand up and hammer for those slight downhills.

My point is...there really isnt a super good reason to get a road crank. Many companies make 48X chainrings for mountain cranks. You'll have to move the front derailleur up a bit higher.

For winter road riding I change the rubber to some semi slicks, and put on my old Sugino Mt. crank. It's the 5 arm standard. I forget the measurements...110 or 94. Anyhoo, it's got 48/36/28 on there. I got the 28 tooth chainring from my first mt bike. (Paramount pd70) or p something. Those days (91) a 28 tooth chainring was common. It's even steel!. I've had it on each of my successive mt bikes since, at some point or another. So its higher gearing, and hi-pressure tires for the next 2 months till things dry out up here. I used to take off the shock...uhh suspension fork for road riding as well, but now leave it on. Can't seem to live without it. Especially with hi press tires, it takes a lot of the pain out of the arms.

 

[SurgeTheScurge]

this may seem stupid but I was wondering why you go to slicks with hi presure?

Personaly I get wide nubby tires and go as low pressure as possible to give me more traction.

 

[cmdrpiffle]

one more thing

Before I'm private messaged to death again...

There isn't ANY issue with 'measurements' and shifting compatibility between the 2 cranksets. Even if one was manufactured 12 years before the other. (yes, I change bottom brackets as well) I know they're different 'widths'. Like you could even tell.

I use a gripshift XO twistie for the front derailleur. It's like a friction shifter, with clickers!
(tastes great, less filling, but plenty of clicks) I don't pay attention to where the little pointer is on the shifter, I just turn it till it shifts, then adjust it so it don't rub.

Cmdr 'click click click" Piffle
PS...take off the expensive knobbies for touring. Lots of companies sell fairly inexpensive slick/semi slick tires in 26". I use Contis low end, wire bead. I highly DON'T recommend them. They, like most wire beaded tires are a royal biatch to seat.
Another caveat is if it's a mt frame...with a suspension fork, and skinny tires, and big gearing.....yer gonna look like a dork. It's prolly best to concoct a story about how this is the next new thing in 'aggro/cold weather training.
t

 

[cmdrpiffle]

no question is stupid

this may seem stupid but I was wondering why you go to slicks with hi presure?

Personaly I get wide nubby tires and go as low pressure as possible to give me more traction.

I'm assuming you are riding on the road. Higher pressure, non knobbed tires are more efficient on the road. If yer off/road...you may want a hybrid. I'd leave the full on knobbies for dedicated dirt riding.

And finally...if you do find yourself on asphalt, at speed, in say a descending turn....your partially inflated knobbies can kill you.

 

[shiggy]

this may seem stupid but I was wondering why you go to slicks with hi presure?

Personaly I get wide nubby tires and go as low pressure as possible to give me more traction.

Do you really know what type of riding you want to do with this bike? It seems like every time you post your "requirements" change.