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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i'm 6' 2", 225 lbs. (looking to get down to around 200).

does anyone of similar proportions have insight regarding road bikes of carbon, steel, aluminum, or other materials? not for racing--just long solo and group rides.

(i've been sifting through roadbikereview.com forum topics for perspectives on this same matter, but figured that this forum might be a good spot, too)
 

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My primary road bike has an old lightweight brazed-lugged steel frame and I have put many 1000s of kms without a problem. About two years ago I noticed one of the seatstays was pretty badly bent, probably from banging into other bikes hanging up or laying in a heap at the shop where I worked. I bent it back close to straight and I have put another 1500kms on it without a problem.

I have also ridden aluminum and aluminum/carbon bonded frames, but I prefered the security of my old steel bike. I prefer the ride and familiarity of it. The weight difference is maybe a pound or two (but I weigh 250lbs + so it is not a big deal at all)

Steel is real (so are aluminum and carbon, but neither of those rhyme with 'real').
 

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I am 6'2" and 235 and I ride a KHS Flite carbon roadie with no problems. My previous ride was a Trek 1500 aluminum with carbon fork and no problems there either. Unless you are really big I think most frame materials will be fine.
 

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im 220lbs-ish and my carbon/aluminum Flite 700 has had no problems with it, except for the cheaper wheels that it came with. I commute with it too, so it sees some less than stellar pavement. Upgraded to Mavic Aksiums and they have been perfect.
 

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You should be OK as long as you stay away from the seriously weight weenie frames, and soft wheels. Wheels is probably the thing you need to pay attention to most.
 

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bike materials

At 235 lbs, I ride a Fuji Team Pro. It is an all carbon rig, and I love the ride! No issues at all.:thumbsup:
 

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Im 6'3" 250 and ride an orbea orca with carbon forks cranks and bars.The complete bike weighs in at 17 lbs.I hammer on this bike and have not had any issues at all.I used to ride an aluminum road bike but it was too rigid and i would feel every bump in the road.The carbon absorbs more of the smaller bumps and is a very comfortable.
 

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perttime said:
You should be OK as long as you stay away from the seriously weight weenie frames, and soft wheels. Wheels is probably the thing you need to pay attention to most.
+1

As a general rule I would stay away from the elite racers. Being 200+ lbs kindof negates any benefit a real light bike will have and why have to worry about failure if you don't need to?

The wheel choice is probably going to be the biggest concern as mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
jabpn said:
+1

As a general rule I would stay away from the elite racers. Being 200+ lbs kindof negates any benefit a real light bike will have and why have to worry about failure if you don't need to?

The wheel choice is probably going to be the biggest concern as mentioned.
Both excellent points--they're sort of my operating principles while shopping around.

This feedback so far basically confirms my existing assumptions: all in all, seems like at a given price point, a "bad" choice really isn't possible.

My trail (Niner S.I.R. Nine) and commuter (Surly Karate Monkey) bikes are steel and I love them. I've also had aluminum trail bikes that I loved. I had a scandium CX bike that I rode as a road bike--it was uncomfortable, but mostly because it was too small. My LBS dude is pushing me hard toward carbon (Specialized Roubaix); clydesdale buddies who own both steel and carbon road bikes say they feel crushed after long rides on carbon (early 2000s-vintage Trek 5200) and less crushed after long rides on steel (mid-'90s vintage LeMond).

Re wheels: Anyone had particularly good or bad experiences with specific setups?
 

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godsey said:
Re wheels: Anyone had particularly good or bad experiences with specific setups?
I don't know a lot about the newer style pre-build wheel kits like Mavic and Shimano (and many others make) with regards to clyde durability, but I did see a lot of broken spokes on the first few years of Shimano wheels.

Personally I prefer custom wheel kits where you specifically selct a hub, rim, and spokes and have them professionally hand laced. It can be substantially cheaper and replacement spokes (should you need them) can be found anywhere. And you get to decide it you want super-light, super-tough, or somewhere in-between.
 
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