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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have two frames...both Ti...same geometry. One is super light 2.6 lbs. The other is close to one (1) lb. heavier. I like the way the 'heavier' one rides. I have to return one frame to the builder (long story). The lighter one is twitchy and kinda noodle-y. The heavier one rides smoother and tracks better. The real difference was the way the downtube and toptube were doublebutted...Anyways....
I would love to drop a pound off the bike. Everything is superlight (wheelset, bar, post, stem), except for the drivetrain. I have Duraace rear derail., but the rest is Ultegra 9spd. Can I lose weight by upgrading the drivetrain? If so, to what (keeping the rear derail-since I just bought it)...without too much expense? Fire away.
 

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More carbon fiber please!
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Alan said:
The lighter one is twitchy and kinda noodle-y. The heavier one rides smoother and tracks better.
To me that says it all. If it's not a comfortable-handling ride then why go that route especially on something you'll be racking up the miles on?

I know that when I hop on my road bike (which is no real lightweight but isn't real bad) it sure rides easier than any mountain bike would on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
IAmtnbikr said:
To me that says it all. If it's not a comfortable-handling ride then why go that route especially on something you'll be racking up the miles on?

I know that when I hop on my road bike (which is no real lightweight but isn't real bad) it sure rides easier than any mountain bike would on the road.
I am not sure you grabbed my question...since I will keep the 'heavier' one, I want to drop some weight from it. The only place left is the drivetrain...can you dump a pound from the drivetrain?
 

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What is your budget if I may ask?

Check eBay first for deals then shop around too. Recommendations I feel comfortable making for drivetrain upgrades along with a suggested brand that I know makes lightweight parts for your needs:

New chain (KMC), new cassette (KCNC), new derailleur pulleys (KCNC or Token).

Crankset, chainrings, and bottom bracket I'm not familiar with for road bikes, but you can dump a lot of weight there. Front derailleur you could shave grams too.

Lastly toss in a few Ti bolts for chainring and derailleur.

You can drop a pound, but it won't be cheap. You may want to do it a couple stages or else you may drop a few pounds too, as a result of not being able to afford food.

If you haven't done it, skewers and seatpost clamp are places where you can drop perhaps 100 grams depending on your current parts.
 

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it is possible but it wont be cheap.

crankset and bottom bracket are a biggy, reducing overall weight is great but rotational weight is by far the most noticeable. new chain, pedals? (what are you running?) be a little less generous with the bar tape get cork bar ends not the plastic stuff with the expanding bolts, new skewers, cassette, pulleys ect ect

replace all the bolts (hit up ebay for titanium), trim the cables to a bear minimum, if you have reflectors on the bike get rid and opt for a light weight race flasher (the small rubberized band type ones)

but if you can hunt the rotational weights, i get so many guys coming in for the lightest frames available, but their budget allows them really poor running gear ad hence really heavy rotational weights so in fact their bikes dont really feel all as easy as they should to ride
 

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Alan said:
...can you dump a pound from the drivetrain?
here is about the lightest yet durable parts you can possibly buy

Crankset:
Zipp Vumaquad
my compact crankset with 34/50 chainrings weighs 559g.that's lighter than some THM Claviculas that cost more than double the price!

chain:
KMC X10SL...expect it to weigh about 225g

cassette:
there's those nice Recon(-Nino) Titanium Cassettes. i also have a SL-kit which reduces weight some more...11-23 SL(10s): 113.6g

you can for sure drop weight elsewhere as well but to give you better advice i would need more details like your current spec or the budget you have etc...
 

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