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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guess what My RM7 just fell apart for the third time. Oh well i have some parts to sell now. 2003 Monster T. Hayes HFX9 front and rear. race face north shore cranks and BB, SRAM X.0 shifters and grip shift. The RM7 design sucks and the warranty sucks so much worse, hey drop $3,000 to $4,000 on a bike and we at Rocky Mountain will be so gracious that you supprot us we will stand behind our product for an astonishingly log 6 months. Oh well I am pissed if anyone needs parts let me know or tell me if your RM7 or other Rocky fell apart.
 

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RYNOMOTO said:
Hey Guess what My RM7 just fell apart for the third time. Oh well i have some parts to sell now. 2003 Monster T. Hayes HFX9 front and rear. race face north shore cranks and BB, SRAM X.0 shifters and grip shift. The RM7 design sucks and the warranty sucks so much worse, hey drop $3,000 to $4,000 on a bike and we at Rocky Mountain will be so gracious that you supprot us we will stand behind our product for an astonishingly log 6 months. Oh well I am pissed if anyone needs parts let me know or tell me if your RM7 or other Rocky fell apart.
Man, I am sorry to hear about your RM7. I have heard about the "dogbone" on the rear linkage breaking before, but I haven't had any problems with mine outside of the usual bearing changes. what broke on your frame?
 

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noMAD man
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I'm going to alert Homeland Security about SCUM.

zedro said:
welcome to the year 2000....
Sounds to me like one of them thar Alqueda splinter groups just hiding under the skirts of a bicycle website. I'm gonna keep my eye on you guys...LOL!
 

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DO YOU HAVE AN RM7 FOR FREERIDING OR FOR DHING? I WASNT SURE THEY WERE GOING TO MAKE AN RM7 FOR FREERIDING.
 

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Jm. said:
DO YOU HAVE AN RM7 FOR FREERIDING OR FOR DHING? I WASNT SURE THEY WERE GOING TO MAKE AN RM7 FOR FREERIDING.
My frame downtube says "RM7fr" which is obviously for freeride. as much as I like my frame, and I do use it for DH runs, I would never consider it a DH frame. but it does jump/drop nice
 

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ViolentVolante said:
HOLY FREAKIN $HIT STOP RIGHT NOW, ITS FOR FREERIDE ONLY, BOTTOM LINE, LISTEN TO JM WHEN HE SPEAKS, HES SMART, MUCH SMARTER THAN YOU. IF IT DONT SAY DH ON IT IN BIG LETTERS THEN DONT FVCKIN DH ON IT, SHEESH
Man I'm glad we worked that out, I was going to take it DH this weekend!! I better just sell it!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
RM7 said:
Man I'm glad we worked that out, I was going to take it DH this weekend!! I better just sell it!!
The thrust link swing arm attaches to the main pivot just above the bottom bracket. Mid ride the c clamp bolt on the thrust link which is the two small bolts that hold the entire swing arm piviot together loosend. the main pivot spindle quicklw worked its way out of the small black retainer and bent the c clam bolts out like dog ears. i callled rocky and on one of the customer service guys said that the two bolts do not even have to be there for the system to work?. and that I had overtightened the bolts and hence the failure. well that makes no sense that the only thing that keeps the rear end of the bike suspension working in any way close to a straight line and is the rear ends only way to stop the lateral movement does not have to be there (or at least that is what the Rocky Guy says). Oh and the first time the f* ing cheap hardware that they use bent in half and took out my "dogbone" ane all of the other suspension linkage. Hence the completely changed linkage for 2004 and the loewered spring rate to minimise the force exerted on the rest of the bike. Sell the 03 and mabey try you luck with a 2004 but the warranty is still cheap 6 months.
 

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Sounds to me like the Rocky rep meant the side bolts on the main pivot don't need to be there. Or he's just wacked! You have to take out the drive side-side bolt to run some chainguides. He's nuts if he thinks you don't need the swingarm clamp bolts. Give me some flex please.

I remember my RM7 had the typical play in the links cuz the bolts seemed a tad too small. Just about every RM6 and 7 owner said they had this play in the dogbone and links. But when I called Rocky to ask about it they said they had never heard of it. Suuuuuuuure! I replaced all the bearings, got the dogbone upgrade kit, and got new hardware and there was still some play. Main pivot was fine, but still sloppy links. The only way to get it to go away was to overtorque the crap out of the bolts and bind everything up, or use bearcan shims that lasted about a day. And when I asked for a torque spec for the links I was told "finger tight to snug". WTF? They couldn't even give me a torque spec! If I ran that stuff finger tight there would've been more chatter than a dozen monkeys in the rear end!

I liked the way the frame rode (and flexed laterally haha), but with that slop in the rear my friends could hear me coming from a mile away.

But atleast my trusty old lime green RM6 said DH on it. I'm still tryign to figure out what the RMX is for.....must be a cyclo-cross bike.
 

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Yeah they suck ass!

RYNOMOTO said:
Hey Guess what My RM7 just fell apart for the third time. Oh well i have some parts to sell now. 2003 Monster T. Hayes HFX9 front and rear. race face north shore cranks and BB, SRAM X.0 shifters and grip shift. The RM7 design sucks and the warranty sucks so much worse, hey drop $3,000 to $4,000 on a bike and we at Rocky Mountain will be so gracious that you supprot us we will stand behind our product for an astonishingly log 6 months. Oh well I am pissed if anyone needs parts let me know or tell me if your RM7 or other Rocky fell apart.
When I graduated from my 5" bike to my "sick" 2003 RM7 W.S about a year and a half ago I had no idea what was in store for me. I started riding it the way it was intended to be ridden right from the get go. I bent bolts, bent the dogbone, and ultimately completely ovalized the whole swing arm. Rocky Mountain was super cool about it...NOT! I have a Kona/888 set up now, and as long as I keep an eye on the main pivot bolt, the bike's good to go. Ohh yeah, I eventually got the new parts for the RM and sold it to a dude in Ireland that could appreciate it.
 

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FISHLEG said:
I remember my RM7 had the typical play in the links cuz the bolts seemed a tad too small. ........
does it use #6000 bearings? because for some reason all the ones i have come with play in the bearing. I dont know why they're specced like that but thats how some of them come new. In such a high leverage ratio system, its enough to equal big play.
 

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On those 6000 bearings.

zedro said:
does it use #6000 bearings? because for some reason all the ones i have come with play in the bearing. I dont know why they're specced like that but thats how some of them come new. In such a high leverage ratio system, its enough to equal big play.
I was looking for some EnduroMax 6000s today for a couple of wheelsets/hubs I have built up in a couple of our supplier's catalogs. I was a little surprised I could only find the standard bearings in that size. Seemed like a popular wheel bearing size.
 

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TNC said:
I was looking for some EnduroMax 6000s today for a couple of wheelsets/hubs I have built up in a couple of our supplier's catalogs. I was a little surprised I could only find the standard bearings in that size. Seemed like a popular wheel bearing size.
yeah, at 24/10/8 its well suited to 10mm qr based systems. But the load rating is pretty poor. I used them on my bikes linkage although i know its less than ideal.
 

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zedro said:
yeah, at 24/10/8 its well suited to 10mm qr based systems. But the load rating is pretty poor. I used them on my bikes linkage although i know its less than ideal.
Can you elaborate on above and #13 thread - interested in knowing more about the RM7 failures. One friends is dead, and another friend seems to have the chainstay/main pivot problem.

What does the 24/18/8 represent, and what would be ideal. Thanks in advance Zedro.

On another RM topic - how many Switch failures are there? I have another friend that broke his 03 Switch.

Kona is holding up well . . .
 

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24/10/8 means 24mm OD, 10mm ID, 8mm width, and 6000 is the designation for that size.the Rm6/7's design puts a ton of stress on the linkage system, and the bearing are also overstressed. If you look at the new RMXs, you'll notice a much beefier setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well hey whern i talked to the rep he insisted that i over tightened the c clamp bolts for the swing arm pivot and that all of the suspension linkage bolts MUST be tightened to 60 ft/lbs of torque. Oh so the linkage has to be tightend but the only thing holding the rear end from changing lanes while i go down hill dosent need any bolts. hey that is just what he said. Not that i believed him. well i have given up on the full suspension life and am a happy traveler on a Brooklyn machine works park bike with 24" wheels 6" Z150 up front set up single speed with a 22 front and an 18 tooth rear. the hard tail steel bike lands a 6 foot drop to flat better than the RM7 would any day and if there is transition there is no comparison. give up the gears and the saggy butt. hard tails for tight trails.


Hey i still want to hear everyones horror stories for all the saggy butt RM 7's out there.
 

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I'm starting to feel embarassed...I've had my 03 RM7 for 2 years now and have had ZERO problems with it. In fact, it feels very stable and I couldn't be happier with it.

I admit I'm not the most 'core' rider out there, but this bike has seen many hours at Whistler (Schleyer, Aline, Upper/Lower DH, Garbanzo, etc) in all sorts of conditions. The only thing i noticed is some play when you grab the seat and wiggle the rear wheel, but then again the bearings in the linkage are 2 years old.

I admit the 6 month warranty is lame, but so far, so good.
 

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I'm don't know if it was the bearings, I always thought the links bolts seemed a tiny bit too small. But I could be wrong. I know when I made some beer can shims and put them in the dogbone and links the play went away. But of course an aluminum shim that thin lasted only a few hours. I just did it to confirm that the bolts seemed to small.

I remember reading the reviews of the RM6 and RM7's and many of the riders said they had some play in the rear end. The main pivot was fine though. It's just weird that my RM6 had it and the RM7 I bought used had only a few rides on it (and you could tell cuz teh frame was spotless and there wasn't even any cable rub on it)and allready had play in the rear.

I posted about this problem several times and some people said that Rocky modified all their pro's bike to fix this problem. And yes the leverage ratio was insane, my RM6 had a 900# spring and I only weighed about 165 back then. The RM7 I had was better, but I still think I ran a 750 or something close.
 
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