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Nice! Stupid question- this is the setup to press in the bearing correct?

For extraction, do you switch this around with the 13 mm on the right side where the washers are and put a bigger socket on the opposite side to act as a cup for the extracted bearing?


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purely for installation taking them out doesn't matter if you destroy them by belting them on the inner race, the inner race is never to be pressed upon unless obviously you have no choice.
 

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Nice! Stupid question- this is the setup to press in the bearing correct?

For extraction, do you switch this around with the 13 mm on the right side where the washers are and put a bigger socket on the opposite side to act as a cup for the extracted bearing?



Yes and no...the link bushing opening is round on one side and like a "U" shape on the other....smaller opening....reversing this setup will work....just use a smaller socket....(that's how I removed the bearing) Ideally I would use something that mirrors the "U" shape to get the most even pressure on the bearing. I think I used a 7/16 socket for extraction....I was going to make a "U" shape out of some metal. I still may but I ordered new bearings and was just checking out if it would work. The smaller socket used for extraction does put more load on the bearing but I don't think it was damaged.....and if you don't care about the bearing when extracting....lots of quick options.

I only mentioned the socket size/mfg to show what worked for me. I have several socket options and that happened to be the closest fit. I think the extraction socket I used was from a different set. Also not required is the all thread. A bolt would work too.....also different size diameter too....that's just what what easy for me to grab...3/8 just barely fit the bearing hole.
I will take more pics later that show it better than I am describing.
 

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Yea the U-shape thing is weird and like Ibis mentioned when I asked them- that the upper link was designed as a replaceable unit. But that doesn’t mean people don’t try!

Yea some setup pics for both install and extract would be helpful. Thanks for trying this out and sharing! I’m emboldened to try now…


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I'm replacing has they need .. so this time just one.. maybe in 6 months another .. that will keep it running smooth and you are not just replacing the link because ...

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Good idea really. Just replace the bearing that needs it. I have an extra rocker link now and only 1 bearing is rough. Worth replacing it for about $6-7 for sure.
 

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I've got a creak I need to chase down. I think it's the bb but not sure. You can't hear it when coasting downhill so I'm pretty certain it's not in the suspension linkage. I also had the noise both before and after replacing my rear triangle. I'm pretty sure it's in the bb or rear hub as it happens when pedaling and every second or so revolution of the cranks but not all the time. Only does it on flatter climbs and not during granny gear steep climbs. I have checked the derailleur hanger, gone through the hub, re-lubed the freehub and checked the crank bolt torque. The only thing I can thing of to try next is to check the bb torque and possibly replace it. The bb does make some noise when spun on the work stand with the chain off. Anyone have a Sram bb fail on them? Seems pretty rare in my experience but.... all things wear out eventually.
 

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I've got a creak I need to chase down. I think it's the bb but not sure. You can't hear it when coasting downhill so I'm pretty certain it's not in the suspension linkage. I also had the noise both before and after replacing my rear triangle. I'm pretty sure it's in the bb or rear hub as it happens when pedaling and every second or so revolution of the cranks but not all the time. Only does it on flatter climbs and not during granny gear steep climbs. I have checked the derailleur hanger, gone through the hub, re-lubed the freehub and checked the crank bolt torque. The only thing I can thing of to try next is to check the bb torque and possibly replace it. The bb does make some noise when spun on the work stand with the chain off. Anyone have a Sram bb fail on them? Seems pretty rare in my experience but.... all things wear out eventually.
I had one noise I was chasing for a little while that was only there under certain loads and not constantly. I couldn’t make it recreate the noise at home and that’s frustrating because that’s makes it hard to find. It turned out to be the dropper post and seat rails. I just removed cleaned and lubed the outer surface of the dropper post and cleaned and lubed the seat rails and mount and happy days the noise went away.
 

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I've got a creak I need to chase down. I think it's the bb but not sure. You can't hear it when coasting downhill so I'm pretty certain it's not in the suspension linkage. I also had the noise both before and after replacing my rear triangle. I'm pretty sure it's in the bb or rear hub as it happens when pedaling and every second or so revolution of the cranks but not all the time. Only does it on flatter climbs and not during granny gear steep climbs. I have checked the derailleur hanger, gone through the hub, re-lubed the freehub and checked the crank bolt torque. The only thing I can thing of to try next is to check the bb torque and possibly replace it. The bb does make some noise when spun on the work stand with the chain off. Anyone have a Sram bb fail on them? Seems pretty rare in my experience but.... all things wear out eventually.
Get the DT350 already. It’ll drown out any creaking noise.

Kidding aside, your typical $30 BBs don’t last beyond 1500 miles or about 2 years depending how much you ride per week. Easy to remove since we are on threaded BB. Feel the bearing action too. If it’s rough, replace with a new one.

If you are running SRAM chain ring, check the bolts of the Direct mount. Loose bolts there can cause creaks too.


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I've got a creak I need to chase down. I think it's the bb but not sure. You can't hear it when coasting downhill so I'm pretty certain it's not in the suspension linkage. I also had the noise both before and after replacing my rear triangle. I'm pretty sure it's in the bb or rear hub as it happens when pedaling and every second or so revolution of the cranks but not all the time. Only does it on flatter climbs and not during granny gear steep climbs. I have checked the derailleur hanger, gone through the hub, re-lubed the freehub and checked the crank bolt torque. The only thing I can thing of to try next is to check the bb torque and possibly replace it. The bb does make some noise when spun on the work stand with the chain off. Anyone have a Sram bb fail on them? Seems pretty rare in my experience but.... all things wear out eventually.
I found my drive side BB cup loose, I took everything apart and finally found it.


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Yea the U-shape thing is weird and like Ibis mentioned when I asked them- that the upper link was designed as a replaceable unit. But that doesn’t mean people don’t try!

Yea some setup pics for both install and extract would be helpful. Thanks for trying this out and sharing! I’m emboldened to try now…


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Here’s a few more pics. Gearwrench 11mm fit the “U” pretty good. 13/16 big enough to allow the bearings to come all the way out. There is another “press” way that I did last night… didn’t take pics. Last one of the stuff I used. None of the bearings felt “tight” or took a lot of pressure to remove….. I’m not sure if they are damaged… they all look and feel fine to my untrained eyes and calibrated fingers. Hope this helps.
1939832
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1939834
 

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I thought I had removed and installed all the bearing last night….Tonight I removed three without much effort…. But the last one took a lot more pressure and “popped” when it broke loose. Doesn’t appear to be any damage. The bearings definitely spin more freely when installed and have the extra leverage of the upper link compared to “between the fingers” spin. But they certainly don’t spin. When my new ones show up I’ll compare.
 

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Get the DT350 already. It’ll drown out any creaking noise.

Kidding aside, your typical $30 BBs don’t last beyond 1500 miles or about 2 years depending how much you ride per week. Easy to remove since we are on threaded BB. Feel the bearing action too. If it’s rough, replace with a new one.

If you are running SRAM chain ring, check the bolts of the Direct mount. Loose bolts there can cause creaks too.


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Thanks for tips on the creaking guys. I'll check everything mentioned. The seatpost and seat is always on my radar for noise. They're the culprit 9/10 times on my rig. I suspect the bb this time so will get that removal cap and BB tool soon so I can check it.

As for the DT350s, I ran across the great write up below by DT. They recommend 36 POI in their hubs as a good middle ground. This is to still leave a bit of leeway for frames more prone to pedal kickback. The Ibis hubs are also 36 POI so there's not much to gain going with DTs. I figure if I'm going to upgrade, it'll be to I9, Onyx or something else down the road. At that point, I'd probably go for a full custom build with XM 481's or equal with direct pull spokes and colored nipples. That's more planning than I'm interested in right now. With all my bike issues lately, I just want to get back on the trail so having the shop just re-lace my rim to the stock hub right now!

 

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I took apart my rear cassette and realized that the cassette splines had twisted over/into the drive splines....I think that's what they are called. I was able to break it free and put back together. This of course made me think now is the time to change out.......I was going to get the next level up Sram GX cassette and cranks....with a smaller crank...apparently the stock is depleted!!!! I also know that I would have to replace the driver to fit the GX....with a better engagement. I already bought new BB bearings so I was hoping to stay with something that would be bolt on.....It looks like the Truvativ is identical to Sram (same company). Any thoughts on Truvativ? Or other budget friendly options that would be in stock? Or less likely sold out.
When I first got my bike there were a lot of complaints about the NX stuff....but it seemed easy to change the driver to fit the GX......would that also get me more engagement?
Would it be easier/better to get a different mfg crank/cassette/driver and a BB to fit?
thanks
 

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1940023

was surprised at how different of a measurement these two were, definitely feels way different just having a bounce round the street cant wait to try it out, feels alot harder to push through the travel
 

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Hello! Very interested in the ripmo af but saw a couple mentions of stiffness? As a bigger rider 6’3” 230lbs I’m a little concerned if the bike will be stiff enough for me. Just wondering if the ripmo v2 would be a better choice?
 

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was surprised at how different of a measurement these two were, definitely feels way different just having a bounce round the street cant wait to try it out, feels alot harder to push through the travel
From my experience, if your shock settings are similar to what they were before, it should end up being easier to initiate travel in the beginning stroke, and firm up more towards the end. And yeah, I didn't measure mine to compare, but 4.5mm is a significant difference. I look forward to hearing how you like it! There are more of them out there now, but not much detailed feedback yet to compare with how I'm feeling about it.
 

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Hello! Very interested in the ripmo af but saw a couple mentions of stiffness? As a bigger rider 6’3” 230lbs I’m a little concerned if the bike will be stiff enough for me. Just wondering if the ripmo v2 would be a better choice?
I'm 175 lbs + gear, own the AF but have demo'd the V1 carbon but not a V2. For you, I think it depends on what type of rider you are and your terrain. For xc and trail riding and mellow to moderate terrain, you'll be fine with the AF. If you look and handle an AF frame, you'll know that the front triangle is not where any flex is coming from. Any gain in stiffness of carbon would be from the rear triangle and it's going to be an improvement but not night and day. IMO if you are 230 and a really aggressive rider (fast and hit big jumps), neither Ripmo would be the best bike for you. I'd go for a one of the slightly longer travel carbon bikes.

I live in the Sierras and ride in Tahoe/Truckee and even at 175 lbs, I ride the AF right up to what's it's capable of. The carbon wouldn't change that much. If anything would add more capability to my AF, it'd be a Smashpot coil conversion for the front, coil shock and DD tires but I'm not interested in pushing that weight around right now. For some of our bigger jump trails, the Ripmo (either one) is a bit outgunned. I don't ride those trials usually though. It could be done but you'd be on the hairy edge all the time. For those an Enduro, Sentinel, Megatower coil, new mullet Bronson, etc. would be better suited.
 

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I took apart my rear cassette and realized that the cassette splines had twisted over/into the drive splines....I think that's what they are called. I was able to break it free and put back together. This of course made me think now is the time to change out.......I was going to get the next level up Sram GX cassette and cranks....with a smaller crank...apparently the stock is depleted!!!! I also know that I would have to replace the driver to fit the GX....with a better engagement. I already bought new BB bearings so I was hoping to stay with something that would be bolt on.....It looks like the Truvativ is identical to Sram (same company). Any thoughts on Truvativ? Or other budget friendly options that would be in stock? Or less likely sold out.
When I first got my bike there were a lot of complaints about the NX stuff....but it seemed easy to change the driver to fit the GX......would that also get me more engagement?
Would it be easier/better to get a different mfg crank/cassette/driver and a BB to fit?
thanks
That's not uncommon for cassettes that aren't on a unified carrier (loose individual cogs) vs. an HG driver, since it's steel vs. aluminum. It depends on how bad the driver splines are mashed, but you can lightly file off the mashed material that makes it more difficult to remove/reinstall the cassette, and that at least helps to make it "not worse" the next time you take it off.

First, an XD driver won't give you more engagement, it will only adapt the XD compatible cassettes. Second, I've had some pretty good luck using Sunrace cassettes that mount on a mostly unified carrier (I think only a couple smallest cogs are loose), and those are relatively inexpensive and really good for not wearing down the standard aluminum HG driver. You could also order a new HG driver if your's is mangled too much, or XD driver with a new GX cassette. IMO, a new crank/cassette/BB/driver would be the last possible option, as I'm all for gains/$ ratio, and that's a lot of cake if you're not necessarily hell-bent on running Shimano. I was all set to switch over to my pre-purchased Shimano SLX cassette/derailleur/chain before I realized I needed a special chainring that adapts my NX cranks/BB to Shimano stuff, on top of a new MicroSpline driver. In the end, I just installed the Shimano derailleur/shifter with all my stock NX stuff, and called it a day (projecting toward 2.5-3 seasons worth of wear before replacement needed). Sold the SLX cassette/chain for more than I paid for them.
 

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I took apart my rear cassette and realized that the cassette splines had twisted over/into the drive splines....I think that's what they are called. I was able to break it free and put back together. This of course made me think now is the time to change out.......I was going to get the next level up Sram GX cassette and cranks....with a smaller crank...apparently the stock is depleted!!!! I also know that I would have to replace the driver to fit the GX....with a better engagement. I already bought new BB bearings so I was hoping to stay with something that would be bolt on.....It looks like the Truvativ is identical to Sram (same company). Any thoughts on Truvativ? Or other budget friendly options that would be in stock? Or less likely sold out.
When I first got my bike there were a lot of complaints about the NX stuff....but it seemed easy to change the driver to fit the GX......would that also get me more engagement?
Would it be easier/better to get a different mfg crank/cassette/driver and a BB to fit?
thanks
If you want to save money but still get an upgrade, you could leave the driver, cranks and BB. Just install a last generation 11 speed setup on the bike. It'll fit your driver and is sometimes lighter because the cassette isn't as big. You can drop a tooth or two up front to make up for it. There's also the mentioned Sunrace stuff and Box Components that have some interesting options. Modern 12 speed isn't the only good option out there.
 
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