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Isn't banshee .. sort of DW link ??
Similar, yes. But Banshee had been working on their design in 2004, at the same time as Weagle was filing for his DW patent.

 

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Does anyone have a picture of the drive side bottom bracket with the ISCG05 mount installed? I'm installing ISCG mount, an AB chain ring and bash guard this afternoon and want to make sure I have the spacer orientation correct. Ibis site says... "2mm spacer inside the drive side crank arm against the bottom bracket shell", but i'm not sure if that is in addition to the spacer that is already there. I have the Deore build with Shimano BB. Here is what I have now,,,

View attachment 1911418
On the SRAM set up you put the ISCG adapter then a 2mm spacer between it and the BB cup and no other spacers outside of that for correct alignment. Not sure if Shimano is the same or not.
 

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On the SRAM set up you put the ISCG adapter then a 2mm spacer between it and the BB cup and no other spacers outside of that for correct alignment. Not sure if Shimano is the same or not.
Thanks OZIbis. I just got done with the install and I did not use any spacers. When I took a closer look at the mount the lip looks to be just about 2mm which is the size of the spacer that was on there originally. I don't have caliber for super accurate measurements but using a ruler the chainline looks to be just about 52mm which I believe it is supposed to be. And shifting through all the gears is good with no adjustments.

Out of curiosity do you recall what spacers were used on SRAM without the ISCG adapter?

I should have taken the after pic before installing the bash guard but didn't think about it.

1911499
 

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This has been posted before but here are the specs. I am not sure how to search thread after the recent forum ‘upgrade’
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Mojo and HD4 are 68mm shell
Ripley V3 and V4 and Ripmo are 73mm shell
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GXP Sram 68= 2.5 spacer DriveSide and 2.5 on NonDrive side
GXP Sram 73= No spacer - just cups to frame

Dub Sram 68=2.5 DS / 2.5 ND There is a 4.5mm spacer that goes between DS crank and outside of BB cup.
Dub Sram 73= NO SPACERS under bb cups, 4.5mm spacer between DS crank and outside of BB cup *If using the ISCG adapter then the IBIS will need to get you a 2mm spacer to replace the 4.5mm spacer

Shimano 11 & 12 speed 68= 5mm DS / 2.5 ND
Shimano 11 & 12 speed 73= 2.5 DS / none ND

RaceFace NextR 12S 68= 3.75 DS / 2.5 ND
RaceFace NextR 12S 73= 1.25 DS / none ND

ISCG Adapter thickness is 2.5 mm
 

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Where the hell is everyone. Haven’t seen this forum this dead since I joined.
HAHA. I think this is the first time I've been on in the past couple of weeks and saw your message. Not sure about the rest of you, but living in WA state, it rains almost every F'ing day so I've been in Snowboard mode. Need to just sack up and get some mudfest rides in... Maybe you guys in AZ and CA and those places need to post some more trail porn pics to keep the rest of us suckers stoked.
 

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Thanks OZIbis. I just got done with the install and I did not use any spacers. When I took a closer look at the mount the lip looks to be just about 2mm which is the size of the spacer that was on there originally. I don't have caliber for super accurate measurements but using a ruler the chainline looks to be just about 52mm which I believe it is supposed to be. And shifting through all the gears is good with no adjustments.

Out of curiosity do you recall what spacers were used on SRAM without the ISCG adapter?

I should have taken the after pic before installing the bash guard but didn't think about it.

View attachment 1911499
I’m going to assume 2 spacers or about 4mm at a guess. I never had the bike without a bash guard/chain guide on it but with the ISCG adapter and no spacer it worked but the alignment wasn‘t perfect. It required a 2mm spacer with the adapter to get perfect alignment. The adapter that was on the AF didn’t just sit on the ears on the frame it also went down over the outside and was wedged between the frame and the BB cup. The V2 came with the exact same adapter and I’ve got a One Up bash guard/chain guide fitted WITH a 2mm spacer between the adapter and the BB cup. The alignment is perfect just like it was on the AF.
 

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Agree! Love working on my bike... when I get the time! I’m a sucker for nice tools too (habit formed from 16 years in the aerospace industry).

Where we differ in opinion is that you are way beyond the freak level. Freaks do it without reason. You do it out of love for your machines and components and dive deeper to improve a known method. I thoroughly enjoyed the damper maintenance video you made- not only the how but the whys fully explained.

As such, can you do a new maintenance video on how to drift or beat those blasted bearings out from the link? <~ see what I did there?

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Yeah yeah I know exactly what you are trying to do. I’m afraid it’s going to be a little until I delve into the rocker link bearings seeing as though the V2 obviously has brand new bearings and from experience I now know that any creaking noises are unlikely to come from there so in the unlikely event that the V2 develops a creak, because I’ve already done what stopped the creak in the AF so I don’t get one 🤞, I won’t be going there to try and solve it.
The bearings are dead easy to get out and reasonably easy to get back in they are just fiddly. One of the reasons why is because the areas where the bearings go in aren’t parallel on both sides so it’s hard to get the rocker link to sit still and level so you can drive or press the bearings back in making it hard to get them to go in straight initially.
The bearings go in from the outside of the rocker link on one end and they are a piece of piss to get back in but the ones that go in from the inside of the rocker link are the painful ones. It’s really only the very last one you install that’s a real head ache just because of a lack of room.
Also it seems like you get me with the maintenance thing. For me it’s not just about the ride it’s about pride of ownership and appreciating the machine itself as well. On top of that my bikes always ride amazingly and I have less ongoing costs as a general rule because everything is lubed and running smoothly not grinding and wearing out.
 

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HAHA. I think this is the first time I've been on in the past couple of weeks and saw your message. Not sure about the rest of you, but living in WA state, it rains almost every F'ing day so I've been in Snowboard mode. Need to just sack up and get some mudfest rides in... Maybe you guys in AZ and CA and those places need to post some more trail porn pics to keep the rest of us suckers stoked.
The last time Oz posted bike porn pics , I ended up with a huge hole in my wallet!

Weather is obviously wonderful here in AZ now but I’ve only been riding once or twice a week to avoid the crazy crowds. Late afternoon to sun down seems like the best times and everything I get to ride, I’m just thankful I can. Figure there’s only a handful more rides with this beautiful machine before the new bike arrives so gotta make every ride count!







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Ordered Magura Trail Sports for mine. Looking forward to consistent bite points and rotors that don't warp every ride :D
Pics!! Are Magura like Hope where the anodized bits can have matchy matchy colorways? I wanted to go with Hope at one point but didn’t like fiddling with DOT fluids.

Shimano’s are like workhorses. Strong bite points and reliable enough but man are they boring in terms of aesthetics.


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For those of you with code brakes, what is the width of the stock bleed block? Setting up my new to me brakes, I’m getting a tiny bit of rub. The block I used was ~11mm thick. Wondering if I need to clean and lube the pistons, or if I overfilled the system. When bleeding I turned the contact point adjuster all the way (opposite the arrow) and had the lever about 80 mm away from the centreline of the handlebar. Anyone have any tips/tricks?
 

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For those of you with code brakes, what is the width of the stock bleed block? Setting up my new to me brakes, I’m getting a tiny bit of rub. The block I used was ~11mm thick. Wondering if I need to clean and lube the pistons, or if I overfilled the system. When bleeding I turned the contact point adjuster all the way (opposite the arrow) and had the lever about 80 mm away from the centreline of the handlebar. Anyone have any tips/tricks?
Set the pad pick up point adjuster to around the middle of the range. Bleed the brakes with the wheels on. Put the syringes on with 3/4 full in the caliper and about 1/4 or so in the master cylinder with both clips closed. Open the clip on the caliper syringe pull the brake lever in then push the syringe to push the lever back out. Open the clip on the master cylinder syringe. Push the fluid through until there is about 1/3 or so left in the caliper syringe. Close the clip. Vacuum bleed the master cylinder push the syringe in when you’re done to refill the master cylinder then close the clip remove the syringe then refit the bolt. Open the clip on the caliper syringe and vacuum bleed the caliper. Pressurise the system by pushing on the syringe then release the pressure on the syringe until you can JUST see light between the disk and pads. Close the bleeding edge, close the clip on the syringe and remove it. You may well have a little rub at this stage. Open the bolt on the master cylinder only just until a tiny bit of fluid comes out and close it straight away. Keep doing that until you’ve got no rubbing. Adjust the pad pick up point dial until it’s where you like it and you should be good to go. This is the process I used on my Code R’s on the AF except for the pick up point adjuster because they obviously don’t have one and the process I used on my Code RSC’s 2 days ago and they feel amazing. No rub and crazy good stopping power and modulation. I also used the same process on the G2 RS‘s my wife has on her new bike when I built it during the week and it worked just as well. It was actually a big eye opener because after I bled the G2’s and gave them a test run I thought yep they feel good then I got on my bike with the Code RSC’s and test rode it after the bleed and the difference in power is HUGE. Those Codes are a bloody amazing brake.
 

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Pics!! Are Magura like Hope where the anodized bits can have matchy matchy colorways? I wanted to go with Hope at one point but didn’t like fiddling with DOT fluids.

Shimano’s are like workhorses. Strong bite points and reliable enough but man are they boring in terms of aesthetics.


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Magura has little rings you can change the color of in the calipers, they look to be pretty customizable. I think if I change anything it'll be putting a 4 pot caliper on the rear but we'll see how the 2 pot caliper does. Feel like the 4 pot SLX rear just locks up way too easy so a little more modulation and less wandering bite point with the Maguras sounds nice.
 

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Set the pad pick up point adjuster to around the middle of the range. Bleed the brakes with the wheels on. Put the syringes on with 3/4 full in the caliper and about 1/4 or so in the master cylinder with both clips closed. Open the clip on the caliper syringe pull the brake lever in then push the syringe to push the lever back out. Open the clip on the master cylinder syringe. Push the fluid through until there is about 1/3 or so left in the caliper syringe. Close the clip. Vacuum bleed the master cylinder push the syringe in when you’re done to refill the master cylinder then close the clip remove the syringe then refit the bolt. Open the clip on the caliper syringe and vacuum bleed the caliper. Pressurise the system by pushing on the syringe then release the pressure on the syringe until you can JUST see light between the disk and pads. Close the bleeding edge, close the clip on the syringe and remove it. You may well have a little rub at this stage. Open the bolt on the master cylinder only just until a tiny bit of fluid comes out and close it straight away. Keep doing that until you’ve got no rubbing. Adjust the pad pick up point dial until it’s where you like it and you should be good to go. This is the process I used on my Code R’s on the AF except for the pick up point adjuster because they obviously don’t have one and the process I used on my Code RSC’s 2 days ago and they feel amazing. No rub and crazy good stopping power and modulation. I also used the same process on the G2 RS‘s my wife has on her new bike when I built it during the week and it worked just as well. It was actually a big eye opener because after I bled the G2’s and gave them a test run I thought yep they feel good then I got on my bike with the Code RSC’s and test rode it after the bleed and the difference in power is HUGE. Those Codes are a bloody amazing brake.
Lots of great tips there, thanks. I have always removed the wheel when bleeding. I did see a video where someone used some old pads and a rotor.
 

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1911705


Scoping out the new little lines that the local kids keep coming up with. This one was super chill.
 

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Merlin has great prices on magura product.

The mezzer just doesn’t get any love from the media Bike Radar Enduro Fork Shoot Out 2021

I’m tempted to try a Z1 coil. 250 grams heavier than a diamond. I loved my old super T:)
Ripmo AF/Bomber Z1 owner here. The small bump is obviously great and it holds a line ridiculously well through chunk. I don't feel like I've given up much going from a Grip2 to Grip Sweep damper; it's less puzzling and more riding. Only drawback is the weight you mention and it's not quite as poppy as an air spring. Otherwise the traction is absurd. Looks pretty rad too.
 

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Ripmo AF/Bomber Z1 owner here. The small bump is obviously great and it holds a line ridiculously well through chunk. I don't feel like I've given up much going from a Grip2 to Grip Sweep damper; it's less puzzling and more riding. Only drawback is the weight you mention and it's not quite as poppy as an air spring. Otherwise the traction is absurd. Looks pretty rad too.
Yours is the silver AF with red fork? That things does look BA! I've been on several demos with the 36 Performance and actually really liked the regular Grip damper. It's very smooth and good for moderately aggressive enduro riding. It might not be enough for EWS racing but I'm no EWS racer anyways! Haven't been on a Grip2 yet to compare. I'd for sure pass on a Fit damper but I think most people know they're not the best at this point.
 
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