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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got mine installed and going to ride it today.

A few questions on settings

Compression:
  • Is fully open perpendicular to the shock or inline with the shock?
  • Is it normal for the lever to have a decent amount of resistance and not much positive feedback when moving it from closed to open?
Rebound
  • I assume this is just a dial with zero feedback when increasing/decreasing rebound.

I'm about 175 ride weight. Im around 125psi for 11mm sag. I was going to start with rebound at 50% an go from there.

What are others running?

Thanks!
 

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You are correct on the compression and rebound adjustments. I run about 200psi which gets me around 11.5mm of sag(I'm 230lbs). I haven't bottomed and have been running middle position for compression lever.

This shock changed the bikes feel dramatically imo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You are correct on the compression and rebound adjustments. I run about 200psi which gets me around 11.5mm of sag(I'm 230lbs). I haven't bottomed and have been running middle position for compression lever.

This shock changed the bikes feel dramatically imo.
Thanks...normal to have a squishing sound? Seems similar to my CCDB shocks.
 

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Fully open is perpendicular to the shock. I run mine fully open all the time these days. Rebound about half way. I'm at 150psi and probably 192lbs with gear. If you haven't done it already, I'd suggest reseting the negative chamber and putting some grease on the seals. Rebound knob has no clicks unfortunately. As for compression, haven't used it in a while and don't recall...I think there are 5 distinct positions. How are you liking it?

Edit: Yes squishing sound is normal.
 

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195 lb, running 145psi

Compression lever is fully open when perpendicular to shock body...moves smoothly w 2 detents on the way to fully closed at 90 when parallel to shock body. Fully closed, shock still moves but is significantly stiffer on compression. On ripley I always just have the shock on full open and never reach for the lever

rebound knob useable range seems small, for me the most useful spot is between 3/8 to 1/2 turn from fully closed. Not clicks on the rebound. There's a McLeod thread here that directly applies to the Mara, for the most part.

Agree w the re-set of the air can if you haven't done this.

Just got mine installed and going to ride it today.

A few questions on settings

Compression:
  • Is fully open perpendicular to the shock or inline with the shock?
  • Is it normal for the lever to have a decent amount of resistance and not much positive feedback when moving it from closed to open?
Rebound
  • I assume this is just a dial with zero feedback when increasing/decreasing rebound.

I'm about 175 ride weight. Im around 125psi for 11mm sag. I was going to start with rebound at 50% an go from there.

What are others running?

Thanks!
 

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893 Posts
Just got mine installed and going to ride it today.

A few questions on settings

Compression:
  • Is fully open perpendicular to the shock or inline with the shock?
  • Is it normal for the lever to have a decent amount of resistance and not much positive feedback when moving it from closed to open?
Rebound
  • I assume this is just a dial with zero feedback when increasing/decreasing rebound.

I'm about 175 ride weight. Im around 125psi for 11mm sag. I was going to start with rebound at 50% an go from there.

What are others running?

Thanks!
I'm the same weight, run the same pressure and get the same sag. Yes, fully open is when the lever is perpendicular to the shock. I run mine in position 2 most of the time.

As for rebound I'm not quite sure what you mean by 50%. Yes, unfortunately the rebound is just a dial without clicks or any type of tactile feel. I run mine between 3/4 to 1 turn from fully open. One note on this, I do check my rebound setting often. Because of the lack of clicks I find it is subject to changing if it accidentally gets bumped or rubbed.

Yes, the squishing sound is normal. I have one Mara and two Mcleods and they all make this noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm the same weight, run the same pressure and get the same sag. Yes, fully open is when the lever is perpendicular to the shock. I run mine in position 2 most of the time.

As for rebound I'm not quite sure what you mean by 50%. Yes, unfortunately the rebound is just a dial without clicks or any type of tactile feel. I run mine between 3/4 to 1 turn from fully open. One note on this, I do check my rebound setting often. Because of the lack of clicks I find it is subject to changing if it accidentally gets bumped or rubbed.

Yes, the squishing sound is normal. I have one Mara and two Mcleods and they all make this noise.
Thanks, but 50% on the rebound, I meant 1/2 turn from fast/slow. I felt like I needed to slow it down after the first ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
First ride was good, but I think I need to give a few more rides on purposely fast, rough trails where I felt the DPS just rolled over and gave up.

I did slow down the rebound a bit. I started at 1/2 turn. Felt a little jumpy.

I plan to reset the negative chamber today before I ride. Did not realize I needed to fully remove the can so need to take shock off.

What grease are people using on seals? SlickHoney?

What are people doing to increase progressively? I Read a while back just adding a glob of grease...where? How much? What kind?
 

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The can should have two volume spacer in it already. Mine did. From my own experience at 165, so I’m guessing up on the air pressure from my own. I’d remove both volume spacers, reduce air to 111, try 5/8 of a turn from full slow on rebound and full open for compression. Sag for me is around 36%

And I used slick honey, cause that’s what I have.
 

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I thought the spacers in the mara were to adjust travel down to 190 x 45mm, and were required? If removed, should double check to see that the shock does not end up larger than 190 x 45...

The can should have two volume spacer in it already. Mine did. From my own experience at 165, so I'm guessing up on the air pressure from my own. I'd remove both volume spacers, reduce air to 111, try 5/8 of a turn from full slow on rebound and full open for compression. Sag for me is around 36%

And I used slick honey, cause that's what I have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I thought the spacers in the mara were to adjust travel down to 190 x 45mm, and were required? If removed, should double check to see that the shock does not end up larger than 190 x 45...
Yeah I did not think there were spacers. I know I read a year or so ago the way to add "spacers" was to add grease, but I'm not sure how to do that
 

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You had me second guessing myself, so I measured the stroke and all I have is 45mm. The two spacers add up to 11mm, one 6mm, other 5mm. Manitou documents calls them spacers, not travel or air, I checked the McLeod and Mara Pro too. So I'll email them for clarification. But I don't see me putting the back in as nothing is in hitting under full extension. They do nothing to stop full compression. Fwiw, this is medium Ripley and I've been running it this way for some time. Added the last pic of the yoke and seat tube gap, measured from the bottom of the yoke to the seat tube is 4mm. Anyone want to measure their distance?
1942036
1942038
1942042
 

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You had me second guessing myself, so I measured the stroke and all I have is 45mm. The two spacers add up to 11mm, one 6mm, other 5mm. Manitou documents calls them spacers, not travel or air, I checked the McLeod and Mara Pro too. So I'll email them for clarification. But I don't see me putting the back in as nothing is in hitting under full extension. They do nothing to stop full compression.
The danger in removing spacers that limit extension is that over time the negative air side will lose air, if it loses it faster than normal maintenance will compensate for you will get extra extension and the clevis may hit the frame on top out. If there were a seal issue this scenario could develop rapidly, even during a ride. Without the spacers you are relying on negative air to maintain top out extensions limits.

As to using grease as a positive side spacer to increase progression, just use some method to repeatably measure a good dollop of Slickoleum or equivalent and put it in the large main chamber before closing it back up. Adjust to preference.
 

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Let the air out and see how far it goes under full compression.
Not to sounds sarcastic, but I'll let you think about this one yourself.

The danger in removing spacers that limit extension is that over time the negative air side will lose air, if it loses it faster than normal maintenance will compensate for you will get extra extension and the clevis may hit the frame on top out. If there were a seal issue this scenario could develop rapidly, even during a ride. Without the spacers you are relying on negative air to maintain top out extensions limits.

As to using grease as a positive side spacer to increase progression, just use some method to repeatably measure a good dollop of Slickoleum or equivalent and put it in the large main chamber before closing it back up. Adjust to preference.
Yeah, this was my initial concern. The shock physically won't extend it that far, I've tried. Maybe something is there I don't see or understand?

I'll post up Manitou's reply once received.

Oddly enough PB had an article yesterday on negative spring spacers…I'll leave this here.

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