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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This probably jinxes my bike, but I just got back from a 9 day drop in Moab, and my '17 RIP9 sure was a fabulous bike for that.

Great mix of trails, up down and over, from Bar-M to Ahab to Porc Rim, never let me down and had a great time.

2nd trip to Moab on the bike, last trip was 27.5 wheels with 2.8, this one 29er with 2.6, still lovin' it.

Peace.

Nature Natural environment Landscape Plant community Soil
 

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Chilling out
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think if I was Mr. Freeride and looking towards truly beat-down dropping and DH style that the 27.5 may be better, but for me ... I don't like flying more than 4 or 5 ' vertical, the 29x2.6 (Maxxis Rekon) were definitely fabulous.

Not a lot of room in the rear triangle though with the tire, would not want to ride wet in some areas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That was my exact feeling too. I also went with the 2.6 Rekon. What rims are you running?
Flow Mk 3, wrapped on I9 Torch hubs.

Aside from the infrequent crash induced damage they've been bomber, very little maintenance (great local wheelbuilder at Sicker's Bikes in Clarkes Summit PA). I can build good wheels but it takes me about 4 hours to do right.
 

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WTF!!! How can you be riding a bike that old with outdated geometry? I am surprised it has not exploded on you....

Wait...

I am still riding my 2011 SIR 9 (though I purchased the frame new in 2016) and having a blast.
 

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Still hanging in there with mine too. Just got back from NC and riding Dupont and Pisgah (black mountain). I still really dig this bike and have ridden several other during demos but I still see no reason to switch.

I've been keeping my coil shock on more and more. Even with rides with more than 2500' of climbing fire roads I'd rather have the bike on a coil.

I did just swap to 800mm bars before this trip. Was running 750mm with a 70mm stem and now the 800 bars with a 50mm stem feels more connected.

Also swapped in the taller lower headset cup for more BB height. Didn't see any adverse affects and it maybe calmed the bars down just a bit.

These are still great bikes. Anyone who is looking at new bikes should take a second to ride this previous model Rip and check sites having blow out sales. There are some really good deals out there. If I can find a new orange frame I may pick it up.

That is all, terrible out.
 

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Been riding a Rip 9 RDO for last year or so, time flies when you're having fun! Amazing ride in sketchy terrain and pedals way better and lighter than the bike weight, as I was coming off an earlier Jet 9 RDO that was under 25lbs. The Rip is probably way more bike than I need but so much fun to ride.

My only complaint is those damn pedal strikes! Thought it was something I would figure out and eventually go away with some technical adjustments but still getting whacked. Even though it doesn't look like that in pic, the bottom bracket is low!

Footwear Tire Wheel Bicycle wheel Bicycle frame
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yeah, the bb is *just* on that cusp of too low. in NE PA I definitely favored 29x2.4 or x2.6 and never thought about it and rarely hit pedal, but with 27x2.8 I did noticeably more.

in NC, CO, UT, no real issues with pedal strike though with either wheelset. Just different per region I guess. {shrug}
 

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Been riding a Rip 9 RDO for last year or so, time flies when you're having fun! Amazing ride in sketchy terrain and pedals way better and lighter than the bike weight, as I was coming off an earlier Jet 9 RDO that was under 25lbs. The Rip is probably way more bike than I need but so much fun to ride.

My only complaint is those damn pedal strikes! Thought it was something I would figure out and eventually go away with some technical adjustments but still getting whacked. Even though it doesn't look like that in pic, the bottom bracket is low!

View attachment 1252500
Look into the taller lower headset cup. Just did that with mine before a ride in pisgah and it helped a lot.
 

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Can't complain myself either. Camo RIP rdo is a great bike!!! Singletrack, bike park, it does it all pretty well.

Curious how you've installed the lower CVA link, dry, loctite on threads only, greased the bolts/bearing surfaces etc? I am trying to silence a creak, turbine cinch interface/chairing mount always seems to creak, XT cassette pins seem to creak, threaded bb should be fine, checked crank and crank arm bolts, anything else obvious you've found creaking? Or any setup you do specifically?
 
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