Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 39 Posts

·
Catholic MTBR
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all. Long time no post. I've got about $2K to spend on a rigid 29er SS and was looking for advice. At present, I'm leaning towards piecing this together with individual parts so I can get the most bang for my buck by deal shopping. I think I'm leaning towards a steel frame but I'm kinda' a weight weenie so the thought of paying two grand for a rigid SS that still weighs 26 pounds seems silly to me. I'm looking for a very low maintenance, lightweight bike that can handle local trail systems in the midwest. Hopefully it will look really cool and so forth but at the end of the day, I'm looking for function first and foremost. It's likely that down the line I'll pick up a second wheelset to use the bike for commuting around the city.

Any input? I'm very new to building from parts so please help me out here!

Parts I'll need(I'm probably missing some important stuff):
Frame: Vassago Jabberwocky
Rigid Fork: Vassago ODIS rigid disc specific
Wheelset
Cranks
Handlbar
Disk Brake System
Cables
Seatpost
Seat
Chain
Cogs
Bottom Bracket
 

·
Jam Econo
Joined
·
4,213 Posts
If I had $2000 to spend, top of my list would be a Lynsky Ridgeline frame.

In my case, I'd swap parts from another bike, but if I had to build the rest w/ $700, I'd probably build a set of wheels w/ XT hubs and Sun EQ21 rims. BB7's for brakes. I have an Exotic carbon fork that I'd like so I'd probably get on of those too.

At this point funds will be running low if I can't raid the parts bin, so I'll scour ebay or the classifieds for the rest.
 

·
Catholic MTBR
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As much as I'd love to have a hand-made botique frame, I imagine that there are some solid SS 29er frames with good geometries that cost considerably less? Are there any OEM unbranded deals that can be had factory direct from one of the Taiwanese manufacturers? If anything, I think it would be pretty rad to have an unmarked frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
I just went through this process. Still waiting for all parts to arrive. Went back and forth on the frame but decided on the Misfit DiSSent. Great reviews and a budget price ($475 frame and fork) plus it looks cool in back, raw, or polish one up yourself. Peter offers build kits if you are interested in that route. Will easily have you under 2K. From there you can find a Stylo crank and BB for under 200 but I went with a shimano sq taper BB and ENO crank. More bling for the same cost. BB7 brakes and XTR cables are inexpensive and very smooth. They can be used with old cable pull levers from your rim brake days. Sink some bucks in a pair of wheels that will do exactly what you want. Stan's has sets for $400-800. I went with a moots ti handle bar for rigid riding comfort at $145 and ESI chunky grips ($18). I have an 2.55 Exi on the front for volume/comfort and put an Exi Wolf 2.35 on the back. Got each for approx. $35 and they mounted in a snap on my ZTR 355's with a floor pump. Post, bars, seat, cogs, and chain you can either go with budget models to make up for all the cash you just dropped into wheels, crank, and frame or if you spent modest amounts on the big items then you can splurge with ti or carbon and still make it under budget. I had most of these parts lying around but did buy a few CK cogs. Have fun!
 

·
Catholic MTBR
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That frame looks pretty nice. They even have a new Steel version. I was also looking at the S.I.R. 9 frame from niner which looks awesome. Any good steal frames for cheap that you all know of?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
345 Posts
EndoAgain said:
I just went through this process. Still waiting for all parts to arrive. Went back and forth on the frame but decided on the Misfit DiSSent. Great reviews and a budget price ($475 frame and fork) plus it looks cool in back, raw, or polish one up yourself. Peter offers build kits if you are interested in that route. Will easily have you under 2K. From there you can find a Stylo crank and BB for under 200 but I went with a shimano sq taper BB and ENO crank. More bling for the same cost. BB7 brakes and XTR cables are inexpensive and very smooth. They can be used with old cable pull levers from your rim brake days. Sink some bucks in a pair of wheels that will do exactly what you want. Stan's has sets for $400-800. I went with a moots ti handle bar for rigid riding comfort at $145 and ESI chunky grips ($18). I have an 2.55 Exi on the front for volume/comfort and put an Exi Wolf 2.35 on the back. Got each for approx. $35 and they mounted in a snap on my ZTR 355's with a floor pump. Post, bars, seat, cogs, and chain you can either go with budget models to make up for all the cash you just dropped into wheels, crank, and frame or if you spent modest amounts on the big items then you can splurge with ti or carbon and still make it under budget. I had most of these parts lying around but did buy a few CK cogs. Have fun!
Please tell me how you did that. My LBS is wanting 250 for the Eno cranks and chainring.
 

·
Catholic MTBR
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sweet. Let's get started on the bike! I'm going for a black and red color scheme. If you could, provide an approximate price point for the components.

Let's build from here:

Vassago Jabberwocky Frame w/ODIS rigid fork (disc specific): ~$650
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,328 Posts
wheels: look for stans flows or arches depending on your size. i am well over 200, and i run arches. you can get them directly from stans or you can have a good wheel builder build a set. you should be able to get a decent set for 450-500. orion_cycles is another wheel builder who posts here. i have no affiliation with any of these people. i got wheels from stans that i am happy with, and i know other people here have been happy with mikesee and orion_cycles.

brakes: mechanical go with bb7. hydros are nice, but more expensive. a friend just picked up a set of avid elixers on ebay for 200 shipped. i spent 260 at the lbs.

for a cog go with surly. they are little heavy, but strong as hell and inexpensive. about 30
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
larryo108 said:
Please tell me how you did that. My LBS is wanting 250 for the Eno cranks and chainring.
Internet - Google what you want and you will find shops that every couple of months have the cranks and rings at $180. More typical is $200. $160 for the cranks and $40 for rings at price point right now for example. You can find a shimano un54bb for $20-30 anytime. Trouble is finding items at the same shop because you want to batch items to save shipping costs. If you order things one at a time and pay shipping each on each item it becomes less attractive. I ordered all my items from 3 or 4 places.

LBS - I buy almost all my consumables from my LBS(s). Don't care about the price and don't ask for a discount. Even buy a complete bike from my LBS every few years. Cheaper than building up a bike piece by piece and most bike shops will be similar in price so I stay local. Likewise, if I am looking for only one part I pay more and buy local. That said, building up a full bike piece by piece will be costly enough as it is. Unless you have a great relationship with a great shop it is worthwhile, and satisfying, to go it alone. I chose to build this one with the help of this forum and many google searches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,507 Posts
Captain_America1976 said:
wheels: look for stans flows or arches depending on your size. i am well over 200, and i run arches. you can get them directly from stans or you can have a good wheel builder build a set. you should be able to get a decent set for 450-500. orion_cycles is another wheel builder who posts here. i have no affiliation with any of these people. i got wheels from stans that i am happy with, and i know other people here have been happy with mikesee and orion_cycles.

brakes: mechanical go with bb7. hydros are nice, but more expensive. a friend just picked up a set of avid elixers on ebay for 200 shipped. i spent 260 at the lbs.

for a cog go with surly. they are little heavy, but strong as hell and inexpensive. about 30
1+

I'd have to agree with a Stans wheelset as well. I was planning to use orion_cycles for my next wheelset.
 

·
Catholic MTBR
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I went to Stan's and built up a wheelset. It seems like the Hope II front hub is very highly regarded but the rear is not so much. Do you all have a recommendation for the rear hub? Is this a somewhat light/strong wheelset? Is there a specific model that you all recommend. I was building a ZTR Flow 29er. I've never done the tubeless thing so I'm not sure what all it entails. Special tire and sealing goo?
 

·
Catholic MTBR
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
How does the rear work on a SS? With a SS specific rear hub, is a SS freewheel all that I need to complete the drive train setup or is there something else I am needing? I guess I also need a tensioner screw as well to hold the wheel in place in the slot?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,034 Posts
You can get SS hubs that either have a thread on freewheel or a freehub (a a splined interface that the cog slides onto). For the Jabberwocky you will also probably want to consider a bolt-on hub. The Hope Pro 2 is a good choice for budget, strength, performance and price. Most will warn you however that it is very loud. If that bugs you, avoid Hope. (note: the Hope Pro 2 singlespeed version by default is bolt-on).

Going the freehub route will enable you to make gear changes much quicker, although there are definitely some nice freehweel style hubs available (Paul, Phil Wood, White Industries) that are an equally good choice (albeit a little heavier), if you don't foresee yourself changing gear ratios often.

On the Vassago, you shouldn't need to install a chain tug or tensioner as the set screw on the dropouts combined with a bolt-on hub, should give you all the security you need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,294 Posts
I'm curious about back wheel selections. A decent v-brake wheel w/ a v-brake is going to be much cheaper and weigh the same as a good disc brake wheel w/ a disc brake. It will also be much cheaper and isn't needed as much for the stopping power. I can understand wanting the huge load up front, but what is the need for super star stopping power in the rear when you should be able to lock them up in most cases w/ the same weight and alot less money?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,892 Posts
I'd go with True Fabrications and a White Brothers Fork. True, because they have a soul and White Brothers because it's an awesome fork.
 

·
Catholic MTBR
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok, sorry for the delay. This is what I have thus far:
Vessago Jabberwocky Frame w/ODIS rigid fork and JabberNutz
180mm Eno Cranks w/32t Eno Chainring
Avid BB7 breaks with 160 mm disks (with some inexpensive levers)
XTR cables and housing
Stan's ZTR Flow 29er wheelset with Hope II Pro hubs ($780, ouch. I "hope" they are worth it being as loud as they supposedly are.)
Stan's The Raven tires. (Do I need sealant to run these with this wheelset? Do I need a sealant applicator?)

Now I need to know what BB I should get as well as some clarification on the rear of the drive train. I appreciate the explanation thus far but I'm still lost. Do I need a freewheel cog or something else? Which brands do you all recommend?

Still need:
BB
Freewheels/Cogs
Chain
Skewers
Seatpost
Seat
Seat Collar
Stem
Headset
Handlebar
Grips

Crap, still a lot to go with only $400 remaining. :*(
My budget has been expanded to $2200 from $2000 luckily so th $200 I would have had left has expanded.
 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
Top