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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I personally love Ti and Reynolds 853 for looks and ride and durability
And honestly prefer the looks of 853 frames normally

who else likes 853 for a hardtail ?
what type and spec?

I am thinking adventure type with yari and 29x3.0 (like TAZ3)
or
SL type with Reba, WCS, and 29x2.35 (like fly)

what price range for nice hardtail with this super steel tubing would seem reasonable ?

favorite colors for nice lifetime frame hardtail?
 

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I was a big time 29x3 lover until 2.6s came along, especially with a suspension fork.

I think if you're going to jump into that demographic, you need to be really on point with your geo and spec. I do a good amount of bikepacking, and I personally don't buy completes because I am obsessed with quality parts that won't break in the backcountry... That can be done with completes, but most companies skimp in areas where adventure riders look harder than your average Joe (I'm not buying a bike that has a good chance of the rear hub blowing up on me for example).

I think you'd sell bikes along that vein for sure, and Reynolds frames usually ride really nice. You'd be competing with some good stuff though (Esker Japhy, Surly Karate Monkey, etc).
 

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I think you'd be going against the grain with 29x3 and I say this as someone who has and really likes the 29x3 (Stache) in their quiver. Tire selection is sparse and that's not going to change unless one of the big guys jumps in again...and I just can't see that happening. 29x6 gives you enough of the rollover and soft surface advantages.
 

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I've been toying with the idea of building a master of none bike that I could use for street touring, gravel riding, mild single track and trail, and adventure/bike packing. 67-68 HTA 74-75 STA long reach short stem with a modern mountain bike position and layout but not the aggressive super slack layout you see many hardtails going to. Around 1150mm wheelbase made from steel with a rigid fork. Using a flat bar and good dependable MTB groupset. The Kona Unit X is close with it's frame but is lacking with it's poor drivetrain and I think I would spec a skinner faster rolling tire but I can see why most would want more tire volume to make up for lack of suspension if you are running rougher trails. A cross between the UNit X's Reynolds steel frame and a Hudski with it's more upscale buildout is what I've been envisioning.
 

· since 4/10/2009
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I love steel bikes. I have 2. Neither is Reynolds, though.

I have in mind that I would like a steel 29er drop bar bike. I won't need room for 2.6 rubber on this one, but I do want thru axles. Not sure I want to do it, but I would like the option to run a short travel gravel fork, so make the A/C on the stock rigid fork fit into that territory so it could be a relatively easy swap. Ability to fit a 2x crankset or go 1x. I want to be able to buy it as a frameset because I have a pretty specific build in mind.

My wife wants a light hardtail for light trails and gravel duty. She never got on with drop bars on loose gravel and fast descents, and she'd rather ride a mtb. Something lightweight is more along the lines of what she's after. She needs a LITTLE frame (she currently rides an XS frame, and it fits extremely well). 100mm fork would be fine for her needs. I think for something like this, getting a built kit very similar to an xc race bike, but with a more relaxed "adventure" geometry is what she wants.
 

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I love good steel frames, I've owned many. Geometry would be the deciding factor. If it's got generic or outdated geometry it's a non-starter for me.

If you're thinking 29x3.0 I would want an updated geometry version of my Surly Krampus. Shorter chainstays, longer Reach, steeper STA, and slacker HTA. Also a short enough seattube for a properly long dropper post.

If you're going regular 29er I would want tire clearance in the rear for 2.5-2.6" tires, and again modern geometry numbers.

Sliding dropouts for singlespeed would be perfect on a new frame like this. There's a serious lack of high end steel frames available with a threaded BB, modern geometry numbers, and sliding dropouts.
 

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I love good steel frames, I've owned many. Geometry would be the deciding factor. If it's got generic or outdated geometry it's a non-starter for me.

If you're thinking 29x3.0 I would want an updated geometry version of my Surly Krampus. Shorter chainstays, longer Reach, steeper STA, and slacker HTA. Also a short enough seattube for a properly long dropper post.

If you're going regular 29er I would want tire clearance in the rear for 2.5-2.6" tires, and again modern geometry numbers.

Sliding dropouts for singlespeed would be perfect on a new frame like this. There's a serious lack of high end steel frames available with a threaded BB, modern geometry numbers, and sliding dropouts.
I agree with all of this. I went to Walt (Waltworks) in 2018 for exactly the updated OG Krampus you describe above. Basically one of his ultimate warrior frames. Currently running it 27.5x3.8 and it's amazing.

No idea what steel he uses, but the frame is so good I'm gonna sell my esker Japhy and have Walt build me a better one :)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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If you're going regular 29er I would want tire clearance in the rear for 2.5-2.6" tires, and again modern geometry numbers.

Sliding dropouts for singlespeed would be perfect on a new frame like this. There's a serious lack of high end steel frames available with a threaded BB, modern geometry numbers, and sliding dropouts.
This
 

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I agree with all of this. I went to Walt (Waltworks) in 2018 for exactly the updated OG Krampus you describe above. Basically one of his ultimate warrior frames. Currently running it 27.5x3.8 and it's amazing.

No idea what steel he uses, but the frame is so good I'm gonna sell my esker Japhy and have Walt build me a better one :)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've been on a Japhy for about 1000 miles and should have a copy custom ti frame coming in within a couple weeks. Looking forward to the awesome geo with a little better ride quality. Not that the Japhy is bad, it's not at all. Just going to add that little extra buttery ti compliance. I'm stoked.
 

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I agree with all of this. I went to Walt (Waltworks) in 2018 for exactly the updated OG Krampus you describe above. Basically one of his ultimate warrior frames. Currently running it 27.5x3.8 and it's amazing.

No idea what steel he uses, but the frame is so good I'm gonna sell my esker Japhy and have Walt build me a better one :)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Second this. I was swayed by an article by a builder years ago that said, you don't go to a fine restaurant, order a meal, then tell the chef what ingredients to use to make it. Just like a chef, a good builder uses the tubes that are the best fit for the use, intended rider, and size of the frame. Most combine tubes from different manufactures as needed to get the desired results.

When I had my Waltworks built, I never asked or discussed with Walt what tubes he was using. We discussed fit, how I ride, and geometry. The frame I received is incredible and has an amazing combination of a wonderful ride, good handling, and not feeling to stiff or flexy.
One issue, I went in on 27.5+ and then 29x2.6 took off (there is less than 2mm difference between the 2.8s I have run and a real 2.6, the 2.8s coming in at 67mm casing and the 2.6s 65mm (35mm internal width). Having ridden 29x2.6 (Son's DV9) I love the size. I now am waiting in line for Walt to build my new frame.

So, I wouldn't get stuck on the tubes used, whether off the shelf or custom. I would look at the ride characteristics the frame provides and geometry and pick which closest fits your needs.
 

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I agree with all of this. I went to Walt (Waltworks) in 2018 for exactly the updated OG Krampus you describe above. Basically one of his ultimate warrior frames. Currently running it 27.5x3.8 and it's amazing.

No idea what steel he uses, but the frame is so good I'm gonna sell my esker Japhy and have Walt build me a better one :)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
At this point, I continue to enjoy the Middlechild steel frame. Beyond that, a custom that I and only I dictate the dimensions and angles will be closer to the front burner. From that standpoint, steel or Ti is the prioritized question to be determined. Tire clearance for 3.25 is indeed a requirement which will fall in the "shall" statements section of the .dwg file.
 

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I think the geometry numbers comment is worth repeating. Make sure it has fairly modern geometry and it will be a more capable seller.
Wants -
29x2.6" clearance.
Sliding dropouts.
Threaded BB shell.
66* HTA - 74* STA give or take.

Also offer it as a frame only option.
 

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I believe the Spot Rocker was before they switched it to carbon... I can't think of any new Reynolds frames off the top of my head though.
Stanton Bikes Sherpa 3 is available in UK welded Titanium, UK welded Reynolds 853, and Taiwan welded 4130. The Switch9er and Switchback are available in Reynolds 631. Also the Slackline is available in Reynolds 853.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I like the Stanton bikes; doing stuff like that with direct pricing for USA customers

I am glad there is still interest in high grade steel mountain bikes.

there are lots of good quality steel tubes for building these bikes. But I like 853 not only for performance , also for the fact that Reynolds controls closely who can build with 853. So customers know when they see 853 sticker that the frame builder is among the best in the world.

I decided to do two , adventure with Jari, SL with Reba
Both at targets of $1999 for complete bikes

small market, but I love this style ATB
 
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