Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner

301 - 320 of 344 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Without weight weenies, we'd all be riding around on 50lb sleds....
Weight is a driving factor for design.
right? my enduro bike is 37 lbs and my ranger is about 27-28! i used to have that frame of mind until i rode a lighter bike. pedaling a 35+ lb bike on a 6000+ foot day can be a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
Uuuuuuh, porky af, to be honest. I don´t have a precise scale, so I just used the one for suitcases and stuff. 14.7kg with pedals. Which sounds like a lot. Also feels kind of... let´s just call it solid, when you pick it up. For reference, my previous/other bike is a 26" Race hardtail at 9kgs (that was considered light, back in ´09). But. Pedaling so far has been brilliant (didn´t get to steep/technical stuff yet), almost no pedal bob, and with the shock locked out it´s almost rigid. I also built it slightly heavier than it strictly has to be (without going full pork); Mezzer adds some coule of hundred grams vs the pike, I have a cushcore xc in the back, big discs front and rear. On the other hand I tried to save some weight without going completely bonkers, money-wise, and without compromising the inherent beefy-ness. I can´t wait trying it out in it´s intended habitat :)
Color wise I really have to say that it comes alive in direct sunshine. In the shade, the frame has a completely different, much darker color than the Mezzer. It´s almost exactly the color of the cranks, think gunmetal/battleship grey. I am still not sure if I like it or not and also still very undecided if I wouldn´t prefer the black mezzer.
Totally agree, and I think I said something similar about weight in earlier post. Great description man.

I've got an XL Rascal
Lyrik set at 150
CC Kitsuma
Onyx laced to Derby DH35i
XTR pedals
SRAM X01 drivetrain
Raceface alloy chainring
CK BB & headset
Bike Yoke 185 dropper
Enve M9 bars w/ enve 50mm alloy stem
XTR 4 piston w/ 203/180 ice tech rotors
Maxxis DHF 2.5/DHR 2.4
Ergon grips

Built pretty damn burly cuz I'm burly, but comes in 33.5lbs. I'm no weight weeny, but I was hoping for just under 33lbs because my alloy Riot with pretty much the same build, but with Saint brakes and an old Pike, was only like a pound more. I thought carbon was light!

Super fun bike though.

1924121
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
Do you have a review yet with the CC coil on the revel?
Dude, somehow I lost track of where this thread was at. Couldn't find it once they changed up the format. Glad I finally did!

I'm not running a CC Coil. I'm running the Kitsuma air. Thing is, I'd been riding it for a while trying to dial it in, cuz CC shocks aren't exactly simple. Could never get it right and psi for sag was different one ride from the next. So threw a Shock Wiz on it, and when I released psi to calibrate, the shock collapsed. Had to send it in for warranty, (super good CS and quick turn around from CC) but only have one ride since the repair. Been getting in end of the season snowboarding instead of riding. But I'm a big CC fanboy. Had one on my Riot, and Canfield is offering the Kitsuma for their latest frames, so I know it's a good fit.
 

·
squish, squish in da fish
Joined
·
1,712 Posts
i received my rascal on 4/1 and couldn't be happier. i am familiar w/ cbf so i purchased it unseen and is exactly how i thought. i got the gx build with pike ult (thinking of coil conversion) and the 11-6 and honestly i'm going to ride it this season as air and then make my decision.

large t-1000
200# geared up at 6'-2"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
456 Posts
So it looks like they raised prices by $200.00 Glad I go mine when I did and am surprised it took them so long...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
How does the bike ride being overforked? Do you know the offset?
My first two rides on it, I used a coil converted Pike set at 140 (51mm offset) and it was fine. I didn't feel the need to up the travel, but the bike just weighed way too much with that fork. Like 2lbs more than my super burly bigger travel bikes. So I ordered a Lyrik and with supply being so limited, all I could find was a 160mm (51mm offset) that I lowered to 150mm. Also bought the 140mm air spring because, like I said, I wasn't sure and it was only like another $40. But, I liked it at 150 and haven't felt the need to lower it. I think the extra BB height is nice. (I hit peddles way too much on my other 29er!) I know somebody on here said they'd talked to Revel about a 150 fork and a shorter offset was recommended, but I don't mind it the way it is. And, if I decide to drop it to 140, then I'm still good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
My first two rides on it, I used a coil converted Pike set at 140 (51mm offset) and it was fine. I didn't feel the need to up the travel, but the bike just weighed way too much with that fork. Like 2lbs more than my super burly bigger travel bikes. So I ordered a Lyrik and with supply being so limited, all I could find was a 160mm (51mm offset) that I lowered to 150mm. Also bought the 140mm air spring because, like I said, I wasn't sure and it was only like another $40. But, I liked it at 150 and haven't felt the need to lower it. I think the extra BB height is nice. (I hit peddles way too much on my other 29er!) I know somebody on here said they'd talked to Revel about a 150 fork and a shorter offset was recommended, but I don't mind it the way it is. And, if I decide to drop it to 140, then I'm still good.
Did you notice a difference in reach?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
Haha. Pretty funny you asked that cuz I almost mentioned reach in my last post. I personally find the reach listed to be a bit misleading, as in the Rascal feels longer than it says it should. Like I have a 27.5 with a 503 reach and a Ripmo v2 at 500. I think the Rascal in XL has a 489 reach. I’m tall, like 6’5 and all torso, and I’m running a 50mm stem on the 27.5, a 60mm stem on the Ripmo and a 50mm stem on the Rascal, even with fork bumped up to 150. I assumed I’d need a 60mm stem, and I tried it with my fork at 140 and was super surprised when I felt too stretched out, even with 46mm riser bars, cuz that sh1t never happens for me. I’m usually a bit cramped.

The more I ride the Rip and Rascal, cuz they’re both relatively new and Winter made it hard to ride, I find I like the Rascal more. Still trying to figure out exactly why....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Haha. Pretty funny you asked that cuz I almost mentioned reach in my last post. I personally find the reach listed to be a bit misleading, as in the Rascal feels longer than it says it should. Like I have a 27.5 with a 503 reach and a Ripmo v2 at 500. I think the Rascal in XL has a 489 reach. I’m tall, like 6’5 and all torso, and I’m running a 50mm stem on the 27.5, a 60mm stem on the Ripmo and a 50mm stem on the Rascal, even with fork bumped up to 150. I assumed I’d need a 60mm stem, and I tried it with my fork at 140 and was super surprised when I felt too stretched out, even with 46mm riser bars, cuz that sh1t never happens for me. I’m usually a bit cramped.

The more I ride the Rip and Rascal, cuz they’re both relatively new and Winter made it hard to ride, I find I like the Rascal more. Still trying to figure out exactly why....
I agree about the reach # being misleading. Before I built up my large rascal I was really agonizing about the bike being too short. 460 for a large is short vs todays new crop of 480-490 larges.
Went over the geo numbers against my previous bikes and other bikes I had considered.
Well when I finally built it up and sat on it, it felt absolutely perfect. With a 50mm stem mind you.
I think we're all over looking one key geo #, and that is TTL. Half the time while on the bike, we're seated. It's when seated I really feel the differance betwen bike sizes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,119 Posts
This is a really good video about getting the right size frame. Once you know your RAD it's pretty easy to find a frame that will fit you well. I checked my current bike against the numbers they use and it was spot on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
I'm going to try this when I get home in a few days. Super interesting. Only bad thing is I only own one of those little ladders, and as someone who used to be a contractor and already has way too many ladders, I may just have to buy another. Thanks for sharing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
What chainring size is everyone running? I'm using a 32t oval and I have to push the crank outboard so that the ring doesn't come into contact with the chainstay. Which leads to poor chainline. I have a 30t oval on the way. Just thought a 32t oval was small for a max ring size.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
What chainring size is everyone running? I'm using a 32t oval and I have to push the crank outboard so that the ring doesn't come into contact with the chainstay. Which leads to poor chainline. I have a 30t oval on the way. Just thought a 32t oval was small for a max ring size.
32t oval here. Absolute Black. Running Shimano XTR, and my excellent LBS did a tremendous job getting everything set up perfectly with good chainline, smooth shifting, etc. The clearance is very tight, but I've had no issues in the first 120 miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
32t oval here. Absolute Black. Running Shimano XTR, and my excellent LBS did a tremendous job getting everything set up perfectly with good chainline, smooth shifting, etc. The clearance is very tight, but I've had no issues in the first 120 miles.
Interesting. Clearance is so tight that the chainnring has scratched the chainstay due to frame flex. Thus why I pushed it out by another 4mm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
What chainring size is everyone running? I'm using a 32t oval and I have to push the crank outboard so that the ring doesn't come into contact with the chainstay. Which leads to poor chainline. I have a 30t oval on the way. Just thought a 32t oval was small for a max ring size.
i’m running a 32 shimano xt and i rode the bike set up from the shop for about 2 rides before i noticed the ring, specifically the bolts on the back of the chainring were scratching the chainstay and one of the pivot bolts. i took it into the shop and they determined that with the shimano crank sets it needed about 3mm worth of spacers for proper clearance. i’m glad i noticed it and it was just a bit of paint, otherwise i’m sure i’d be dealing with a warranty right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,119 Posts
What cranksets are you guys using? If it's not a boost crankset you'll need to shim the drive side BB bearing an additional 2mm to get proper clearance. Shimming the drive side BB bearing will give you an asymmetric Q factor. I'm running a boost XT (FC-M8000-B) crank with a 32t oval and have plenty of clearance.

1927003
 
301 - 320 of 344 Posts
Top