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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted about this a couple months ago, but I could not find the thread to reply to, so I started a new one.

I've had repeated problems with the cable-housing that guides the cable from the top-tube down to the seat stays. The picture tells the story...








I purchased the bike new sometime just before Christmas and this is the third time this has happened already. As you can see, this time it blew on both ends.

Relevant info:
Medium 5.5 EVP, purchased new
did not have monolink up until today (got that for an unrelated reason)
I'm using a SRAM X-9 Rear D, with x-9 shifters.
Have tried tougher Cable Ferrels (SP?), and it helped to last longer, but results are above.
Trying 'slightly' longer housing length this time, but no miles to test results.

Any suggestions, anyone else seen this problem, other comments?

(I think it is reasonable to have a blow-out, but this has got us all stumped.)


EDIT> One theory I've heard is the 1:1 ratio of the SRAM might be contributing, so I'd like to hear from other SRAM users. FWIW, I have trigger shifters, not gripshifters.
 

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Try using NOKON housing at that junction, it works great, I had that happen once on my 6.6, and later switched to NOKON and haven't had a single issue. Maybe we could sell you a small amount, enough to do the section of housing you need, rather than you buying a whole kit. PM me if interested, I have some left over silver and a couple bits of red and blue as well.

Ride On-E2
 

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Less yappin, more Brappin
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I see that happen with crappy cheap housing. The inner wires "pull" themselfs out of the plastic casing. I do not think its a problem with the frame cable stops.

I have used Jagwire cables/housing for a solid year of excellent performance. I just replaced my housing, and its like a whole new drivetrain. My 5.5 has never had a problem with the middle section of rear der housing. I can post a pic of my routing and length if that helps.
 

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rain rain go away...
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at that section in a VPP design, the length changes a lot. it's where the shock is.... so that's at least the stroke length. re-route the cable and never see this issue again.
 

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The same thing happened to me with my seven duolux 29er. It drove me crazy. I would have to change the housing every month or two.The wire from the housing would poke right through the metal end caps and scratch my frame. I was using sram xo grip shifters and tried multiple different housing brands. I eventually switched to Nokon cables and the problem is solved. Not to mention the Nokon cables are very cool looking.:thumbsup:
 

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Does anyone have recommendations on what cable lengths to use with a medium sized 5.5, either from the factory manual or personal use?

I'm about to take delivery of a second-hand frame and can't seem to find much information on the interweb about cable routing and housing lengths for when I swap parts off my donor bike.

Thanks.
 

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NZCoyote said:
Does anyone have recommendations on what cable lengths to use with a medium sized 5.5, either from the factory manual or personal use?

I'm about to take delivery of a second-hand frame and can't seem to find much information on the interweb about cable routing and housing lengths for when I swap parts off my donor bike.

Thanks.
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCM?PAGE=PHOTO_GALLERY&BRAND.ID=129

Try the link above and scroll through the photo gallery and you check out length.
 

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Do It Yourself
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Same thing happened to me on my 5 Spot and my Hammerhead on that middle section. Housing didn't matter, I've used standard QBP, Jagwire silver kevlar, Avid Straight and Flack Jackets, etc. I'm not sure what to do about it though. I'm on Shimano so I don't think that's a factor. Let me know if you figure something out.
 

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I had that same problem on my Turner 5-Spot and 6-Pack because that piece of cable sees a lot of flex. Against popular wisdom I've switched to wound brake cable for that one section and it completely solved the problem. I doubt the brake cable I'm using is "compressionless", but because it's so short, and the fact I'm running 1:1 SRAM, I have no shifting slop.
 

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Homebrew said:
Same thing happened to me on my 5 Spot and my Hammerhead on that middle section. Housing didn't matter, I've used standard QBP, Jagwire silver kevlar, Avid Straight and Flack Jackets, etc. I'm not sure what to do about it though. I'm on Shimano so I don't think that's a factor. Let me know if you figure something out.
NOKON!!!!!, it's expensive but it IS the cure.
 

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.Danno. said:
I had that same problem on my Turner 5-Spot and 6-Pack because that piece of cable sees a lot of flex. Against popular wisdom I've switched to wound brake cable for that one section and it completely solved the problem. I doubt the brake cable I'm using is "compressionless", but because it's so short, and the fact I'm running 1:1 SRAM, I have no shifting slop.

I was thinking about going with the spiral wound brake housing for the middle piece as well. If it's working for you, I'll probably give that a shot. I've heard bad things about the Nokons in terms of creaking when they get grit in them. Not a functional problem but a major annoyance. If the brake housing doesn't work out, maybe I'll try them out.
 

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Another option is drilling out your cable stops and running full housing.

I have the same issues on my Blur 4x and Uzzi VPX. I think I'm going to take the dremel to the VPX...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all the replies.

I've tried a slightly longer piece at that one section to hopefully provide more "give". Based on responses, I'm not too optimistic.

Next try is brake cable (for that section only)

After that, Nokon


Thanks again for all the replies.
 

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see pics of the cure

Here are pics of my cure. Thanks to [email protected] for the recommendation and advice on install. I actually found a local who had them and he came over to help a bit too. A step by step guide is really needed as the instructions SUCK!!
 

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muddywings said:
Here are pics of my cure. Thanks to [email protected] for the recommendation and advice on install. I actually found a local who had them and he came over to help a bit too. A step by step guide is really needed as the instructions SUCK!!

How much is the set? Any tips you can share? I'm about at my wits end with this situation. I've had to trim the migrating strands on my housing at least six or seven times now. And not just on the middle piece, it's all of them.
 

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find a friend who has them!

Homebrew said:
How much is the set? Any tips you can share? I'm about at my wits end with this situation. I've had to trim the migrating strands on my housing at least six or seven times now. And not just on the middle piece, it's all of them.
just kidding about the title. the guy who came over did most of the work, i just sorta watched. I can take detailed photos segment by segment with a short blurb to help you out.
they cost about 55 bucks for the full set. but if you contact [email protected] from competitive cyclists (click the link at the top of the intense page) he might be able to sell you a short section. if offered to me but it wasn't in black and i figured i already dropped so much cash on this bike, i might as well go all the way.
as I'm looking for work I have plenty of time to give what short sighted advice i can! :thumbsup:
 

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this is easy, and its a combination of things:

first use quality housing, Nokon is best but very expensive these are exotic cable housing, after that campy and shimano are the best regular housing and shimano is not expensive either. generic housing made by quality bicycle products (QBP) and sram come in last.

Get shimano or nokon, the nokon will eliminate the problem shimano will lessen the problem.

next you need to do what old school mechanics do but new mechanics almost never do you need to grind the housing end flush using a dremel or grinder. this is probably the biggest contributer to your problem. you see only the very best well pampered housing cutters can cut flush and even those get worse with use, and bad new mechanics use their tools to cut spokes totally screwing up those cutters.

this makes the strands an uneven length, this uneven length is what causes the blowout which is even worse on a moving cable like on the intense.

lastly use the best ferrules DO NOT use the plastic or chrome brass ones they will not help, you want to use the combo of genuine shimano SIS 4mm cable housing and the corresponding silver aluminum ferrules on a properly prepped (ground flush) housing, these ferules fit tight and flush they cut down if not eliminate the housing rocking in the cable stops, and are awsome

i repeat stay away from QBP, and SRAM, housing, stay away from DIA-Compe, and jagwire ferrules and do use an all shimano or better setup. prep you housing properly and you problem should go away.
 

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muddywings said:
just kidding about the title. the guy who came over did most of the work, i just sorta watched. I can take detailed photos segment by segment with a short blurb to help you out.
they cost about 55 bucks for the full set. but if you contact [email protected] from competitive cyclists (click the link at the top of the intense page) he might be able to sell you a short section. if offered to me but it wasn't in black and i figured i already dropped so much cash on this bike, i might as well go all the way.
as I'm looking for work I have plenty of time to give what short sighted advice i can! :thumbsup:

It looks like QBP sells sets of 42 pieces. How many pieces did you need? Or if you know how long each piece is then I can calculated. Any pics or tips would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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i'll take some more pics

Homebrew said:
It looks like QBP sells sets of 42 pieces. How many pieces did you need? Or if you know how long each piece is then I can calculated. Any pics or tips would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.
I'll take some more close up pics.
as for links, I just used the full set, I can count how many links each section has but you owe me a beer! :D
let me look at this afternoon
me
 

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How many links?

The amount of lengths varies with each frame, we have had 2 instances where we had to open up a new set to get a bike completed. If remember right it was on a Racer-X. I have a few extra pieces left over from various employees bikes we've done, if you need some extra pieces. BTW it works great on Pop-Loc systems also. Ride On-E2
 
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