FishMan473 said:
Thanks Andrew,
I assume sanding is going to come in here somewhere? Maybe after the black is removed I would start sanding? At what grit and to what grit?
How do I clearcoat the rims? Is there a rattle-can option? If I don't clearcoat how often will I need to polish them?
And my wife brought up a point. That Easy-Off is pretty strong stuff, any chance it would damage the Al of the rim?
Sanding might be a necessity, but it really depends on how the EO works out. Then there's also the question of the joint (where the two ends of the extrusion meet - not the other kind!). The natural finish of the rim itself should not need much sanding, if any at all.
At any rate, I did fail to mention that, yes, sandpaper (or emery cloth for the anal) and/or ScotchBrite should be on hand. The ScotchBrite is like an SOS scouring pad. You'd use it to help smooth out any irregularities and obtain a finer surface finish and it won't get quite as clogged up as quickly as sand paper. The remaining finish is left with what's commonly referred to as a "brushed" finish. Personally, I always try to avoid sand paper and have done so quite well when working with aluminum and titanium - it's just a pita compared to ScotchBrite pads. If you really must then I say start at about 400 and work finer from there, but again, try the ScotchBrite first. Rims aren't THAT rough under the clearcoat.
I can't say i've had a problem with EO attacking aluminum. Then again I don't leave the stuff applied overnight. The can says right on it "fast and easy, 20 minutes etc" - no problems with 1-hour times for me. I avoid the 4-hour and overnighters because if it's going to take that long it's not worth my while to be using it in the first place (just me). Just remember to take your rim strips out, eh?!?!?!? :eekster: Also, make sure your rag/towel/sponge is DAMP, not dry! A dry (whatever) won't "pick up" of "lift" the leftovers anywhere near as well and makes the job more messy.
Clearcoating - you can use a spray can, sure. If you've got a steady hand, patience and a decent eye (to get a somewhat even finish) then I don't see any problems. It's worked for me in the past. I just get a can from the automotive section at the local Canadian Tire and use that (can't remember the brand right now). Follow the directions for cure time before you build the wheels and try to be carefull when lacing the rims to avoid scratches.
Now you're undoubtedly going to wonder HOW when clearcoating. Get a spare spoke and nipple. Put the nipple through an eyelet
from the inside of the rim, so it's pointing to the outside of the rim. Now thread the spoke onto it (the spoke is obviously on the outside of the wheel, eh!). The head of the spoke can now be a hook for a piece of string hanging from an open garage door (because you need good ventilation). :thumbsup: I wish digicams were aroud when I used to do this. It would make it easier to explain. :madman:
Good luck! Ask if you have more Qs and be sure to post here when you're done! :thumbsup: I'll have my ~>
<~ ready.
EDIT - if you don't clearcoat I can't tell how long before you'd have to polish. It depends on how fine a finish you achieve with your polishing, amongst many other variables I can't even begin to guess at. Sorry, just being honest. I'd like to say 4-6 months if you nail it good the first time and wipe them down after rides, but it might end up being a year. Even then there's something to be said for
waxing, too.
