[crisillo]

Hello!

I have seen the pictorial on enduroforkseals.com , for the disassembly of the Marathon. I was wondering how deep the socket must be for removing the foot nuts. I have seen really long sockets used for this task. I currently have one that is about 3cm long and seems to cover the complete foot nut. Do I need a longer socket for this task?

Thanks in advance,
Cristián

 

[logbiter]

Hello!

I have seen the pictorial on enduroforkseals.com , for the disassembly of the Marathon. I was wondering how deep the socket must be for removing the foot nuts. I have seen really long sockets used for this task. I currently have one that is about 3cm long and seems to cover the complete foot nut. Do I need a longer socket for this task?

Thanks in advance,
Cristián

I use a short extension (hmm, about 3" long) and a regular socket (it's just long enough) or deep socket.
Those foot nuts don't have or need much torque, just over finger tight. The ones on my Z2's are aluminum, so be sure you're getting full coverage w/ your socket.

 

[crisillo]

Thanks logbiter... another Q

I use a short extension (hmm, about 3" long) and a regular socket (it's just long enough) or deep socket.
Those foot nuts don't have or need much torque, just over finger tight. The ones on my Z2's are aluminum, so be sure you're getting full coverage w/ your socket.

Why do I need the extension? I mean if the nuts come out why would I need and extension or long socket for that matter. Does the nut goes inside when unthreaded? Sorry if it sounds dumm, but I just can't picture it.

Cheers,
Cris

 

[Warp]

Hello!

I have seen the pictorial on enduroforkseals.com , for the disassembly of the Marathon. I was wondering how deep the socket must be for removing the foot nuts. I have seen really long sockets used for this task. I currently have one that is about 3cm long and seems to cover the complete foot nut. Do I need a longer socket for this task?

Thanks in advance,
Cristián

I have used a normal 12mm spanner (open end wrench). It works just fine with the Marathons. At least with the Marathon S '04 ones.

You don't need much torque there, just a nice snug fit. The seal o-ring will keep it from moving and that nut does not see much stress.

Edit... for the extension, I think he meant to use the shortest leverage arm possible. The materials on Zoke are very soft and you can damage them very easily.

For example, while putting the top caps back in, we had better results using a short (6") driver than a longer 8" driver. You get more the feeling of it and you're less likely to damage something.

Put on one top cap a few turns in, then start the other a few threads in and then go all the way down on both. It's the easiest way as the fork will try to sink free of any spring force, pushing the top caps above the threads.

 

[crisillo]

Gracias Warp!

I have used a normal 12mm spanner (open end wrench). It works just fine with the Marathons. At least with the Marathon S '04 ones.

You don't need much torque there, just a nice snug fit. The seal o-ring will keep it from moving and that nut does not see much stress.

Edit... for the extension, I think he meant to use the shortest leverage arm possible. The materials on Zoke are very soft and you can damage them very easily.

For example, while putting the top caps back in, we had better results using a short (6") driver than a longer 8" driver. You get more the feeling of it and you're less likely to damage something.

Put on one top cap a few turns in, then start the other a few threads in and then go all the way down on both. It's the easiest way as the fork will try to sink free of any spring force, pushing the top caps above the threads.

I have done oil changes through the top caps on my Marathon and MX forks, but was wondering about removing the foot nuts on my next oil change.

Cheers,
Cris

 

[Warp]

I have done oil changes through the top caps on my Marathon and MX forks, but was wondering about removing the foot nuts on my next oil change.

Cheers,
Cris

After Tigerdog and I did the oil change on Tiger's Marathon, I strongly recommend you to pull out the cartridges at least each 1 of 3 oil changes.

Take your time to get a nice 10mm spanner and remove the springs (if any) and cycle the rods. In your case, I don't know how easy is to get fork oil, but I'd purge all the oil and make a little "oil flush" of the cartridges... you will not believe how much crap these forks get inside.

No wonder why people feel them very plush after an oil change... there's so many gunk in there that the oil gets pretty heavy.

On the MX forks, this applies to the ETA side too...

Good luck!