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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
...The morons who put my Jamis Dragon together (the factory) overtightened the plastic cap thingy that goes on the non-drive side. It is supposed to be hand tight....Anyway, the cranks have always dragged so I finally got around to trying to fix the issue. After loosening the pinch bolts, I cannot get the plastic cap out...!! I have two other XTR 2004-2005 cranksets on other bikes that I have taken on and off and they are threaded standard (CCW to remove). Using the tool Iplastic disk with teeth from Shimano) and pliers, I only managed to injure myself and destroy the tool (I have a couple more)....Any advice on getting this thing out without messing it up? Does Park make a tool for this? I did not see one in their product list...If there are no better tools, does anybody have an idea on how I can rig something up? By the way, the Dragon is leaning next to my Burner so thats how this finds itself on the Turner forum *grin*....Plus, Turner Homers know it all and respond to posts!! Thanks ahead of time...

Greyeye
 

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Park does.

I don't know the nomenclature, but I seem to remember it ending in -9 maybe CT-9? I think it had a cup tool on one end and the insert tool (in metal) on the other. I'll czech around for the actual #.

Found it. Park tools BBT-9
 

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If you can't find the tool or are unable to extract it when you do, just take a hacksaw blade and cut 2 slots into the plastic insert. Be careful as the blade approaches the threads obviously. Once you've got a piece cut just use a screwdriver and mallet to knock it out...
 

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Orangerider said:
I don't know the nomenclature, but I seem to remember it ending in -9 maybe CT-9? I think it had a cup tool on one end and the insert tool (in metal) on the other. I'll czech around for the actual #.

Found it. Park tools BBT-9
The end to remove the plastic insert is plastic too. It is just a plastic wheel that you spin by hand, it gives no added leverage.
 

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Here's a trick...

Take a pair of scissors, push them as far in as they will go, hopefully they are wide enough to catch both sides of the cap, and then turn....

If not, get another pair of scissors, or shears, they are the best tool for that, even better than the park, because the park will come apart on overly tight caps. Trust me, mine has come apart 2-3 times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
trailadvent said:
The park tool your after is a BBT 9 one end for the bearing cups the other end uses the same little plastic disc except its attached to the handle end.

They may have used this tool to reinstall it in the first place as its easy to overtighten with this tool.

http://www.parktool.com/tools/BBT_9.shtml
My understanding was that the tool on the end of the BBT-9 is free turning and so therefore would not really allow any more leverage than the freebie tool. Is the crankset tool fixed in place on the end of the wrench? Thanks.

Greyeye
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
esquire said:
Take a pair of scissors, push them as far in as they will go, hopefully they are wide enough to catch both sides of the cap, and then turn....

If not, get another pair of scissors, or shears, they are the best tool for that, even better than the park, because the park will come apart on overly tight caps. Trust me, mine has come apart 2-3 times.
Nice tip....I will try that one tonight.....

Greyeye
 

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A wild idea to try if, and only if, more sensible means fail: Get a blow-dryer and heat the cap up as much as you can w/o melting it (obviously). It may be better to blow on the outer face or from the other side so as not to soften the teeth where the tool grabs. Since it's nylon, perhaps a fair amt of heat will expand/soften the threads enought to help release it from the crank.
 

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Try retightening the pinch bolts just a little, sometimes this will allow the plastic disc to come out. I have no idea why it works, but it does.
 

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Previous generation tool is great

I must have the original BBT-9 because it looks nothing like that. It's a steel end rigidly fixed to the tool for all the leverage you could need and more. I guess too many people were doing the "more" and so Park modified the tool to its current format to save everyone from their ham-fisted selves. Maybe you can find a shop with the older BBT-9 like mine? (or maybe I have some kind of Shimano branded tool...?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
YAY!! I got it out.....I used a flat small/medium metal file to get a lock on the inside. The thing tapers from about a 1/4" to an 1". Wedged it in there, grabbed some pliers, and crossed my fingers. Popped loose on the first good effort. It is a little scarred up from the scissors and different size file attempts but it is a MTB after all and it seems like it will work fine (all external damage and no thread/structural damage). Also, installed properly at hand tight, there are plenty of remaining teeth to get it back off with the hand held plastic tool.

esquire - I tried the scissor/shear thing but none of the sets I had laying around matched up well enough or were to flimsy.

Thanks for all the help and thanks to speedgoat.com as well for advice....

Greyeye
 
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