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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A 15/16th allen might be all I need.
There is a seperate part that either backs out with the crank, or needs to come off first. That is my Question.
I see no tool for sale that might remove this part first.
This is the model that is $89 from sham mono. Bye Bye.
 

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Old man on a bike
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It took me a while to decipher, but I think you're talking about a Hollowtech II type crankset, and need to remove the plastic arm cap used to fit the non-drive crankarm onto the bb axle; there's a small finger-driven splined tool that's Shimano supplies with the crankset, the TL-FC 16, or you can get one of these from Park http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=25&item=BBT-9.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Its a 2003 m752

Sorry my posts are often dorky vague,but someones babbleing in my ear so much I`ve given up on being intelligent.
The removal process is for crank arms not the bb. The dust covers are on both sides of the crank,not just one side. and is aluminum not plastic. It is way more then finger tight.
The crank arms appear to remove with a 15/16th hex wrench.
The dust covers need to be removed first?
Bikenfoolferlife thanks for your help in the past. I hope you can decipher me now.
It looks like a pin spanner {park spa-2} might do the trick,it looks weak, my automotive pin spanner was about to break with my torquing it.
Two finnish nails driven through a piece of wood 17mm apart, did`nt work either.Scratches give things character.
 

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Klydesdale
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305 Posts
consumerbydesign said:
Sorry my posts are often dorky vague,but someones babbleing in my ear so much I`ve given up on being intelligent.
The removal process is for crank arms not the bb. The dust covers are on both sides of the crank,not just one side. and is aluminum not plastic. It is way more then finger tight.
The crank arms appear to remove with a 15/16th hex wrench.
The dust covers need to be removed first?
Bikenfoolferlife thanks for your help in the past. I hope you can decipher me now.
It looks like a pin spanner {park spa-2} might do the trick,it looks weak, my automotive pin spanner was about to break with my torquing it.
Two finnish nails driven through a piece of wood 17mm apart, did`nt work either.Scratches give things character.
You don't need to remove those aluminum dust covers. They're actually used to make the crankarms self-extracting. Just use a 10mm hex wrench down through the middle of them to loosen the crankarm bolt. As the bolt is loosened it will push against the cover and force the crankarm off the spindle. It works quite nicely - no need for a crankarm puller.

Bonus tip: Make sure the covers are tight in the crankarm. You can lose them if they're not. I actually use a bit of low strength Loctite to make sure they stay in place. It's funny, I lost one of mine, bought a new one to replace and then found one lying on a trail I had not ridden since before I began using the crankset. I made my own homemade tool using the shanks from two small drill bits mounted in a hunk of Lexan. It worked but was cumbersome to use so I recently bought this tool from Nashbar which does the job much better and can be used on chainring bolts as well.
 

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Old man on a bike
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Hollowtech I, then...like Klydesdale sez...

Wondering how you came up with a size of 15/16ths, though. Not just that it's an English measure, which is unlikely on a bike these days, but that's really large, that's nearly 24mm, way larger than any fastener on a crank/bb. Forgot to ask on my previous post...
 

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I have these cranks. Just use the appropriate allen head. The crank arms are self extracting with the bolts.
 
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