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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been in a few DLR2 and SL Leftys lately. I'm quite comfortable in replacing the cartridge oil, replacing seals, lubing the telescope, etc. I have all the tools. Now I've run into an SL that's going to make me take it to the next step: splitting the telescopes, and replacing the races and bearings. So, based on a "how to split a DLR2 telescope" thread here, I was able to pop out the circlip and delrin sleve. But how do I get to the race clips? I'm just not clear on that.

Incidentally, I'm doing this for a friend. I'm proud of that fact that I've converted so many of my friends into mountain bikers. It is a very addictive sport. "It's got the adreneline of skiing, but I can do it all year long". I'm happy I have a two bikes (a scalpel and f-series hardtail) with a SL and DLR2 carbon. Riding on well maintained and set up bikes gets the machinery out of the way and reduces the first-time frustrations. But now that I'm somewhat outfitted to do maintenance means that I've encouraged by buddies to by higher-end used bikes rather than new ones. Which is how I ended up working on this SL.

This SL felt gravely. Upper part of a few races are corroded. The grease on the telescope was dirty as hell. When I took out the circlip and delrin, I could swear more dirt came out than grease. And there was NO oil either above or below the air piston. I'm assuming the only wise thing is to completely replace the races and needle bearings. How do I determine which size (thickness) I need?

Couple more random questions:

What's the point of the Bullet tool (HDTL168). I use it religiously when replacing the oil cap on the damper cartridge, but don't understand the purpose. I can only guess to avoid scoring the inside of the oil cap, which could result in leaks. Is that correct?

When doing a general overhaul / cartridge oil replacement, after I replace the air piston, I put oil both on the bottom (then install the schrader plug) as well as on top of it (into the inner, lower tube). But I read very different amounts in various documents. What are you guys doing?

Thanks everyone!
 

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unemployed team mechanic
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You measure the races with a micrometer. all the outer races will be the same sizes on the carbons. you can release that race clip by collapsing the telescope after removing the c-clip and delrin bushing, then push the t-tabs in towards the inner leg. work your way around to remove the outer clip. do you have the race retainer for when you pull the assembly apart?

the bullet tool is to prevent the seal on the lower oil cap from tearing this seal is directional.

you should put phil wood oil on top and bottom of the air plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Captain. I can see the t-tabs and I can push them in towards the inner leg. I can see a bit of the clip (or at least what I believe it to be) right below the tabs (covered in a lot of dirty grease). But how I do I pull grab that outer clip? It seems impossible.

Yep, I do put Tenacious above and below the air piston. I've done 20 cc each based on what I've read. But I've also seen some small numbers. Any clarification would be very welcome.

Captain Pabst said:
You measure the races with a micrometer. all the outer races will be the same sizes on the carbons. you can release that race clip by collapsing the telescope after removing the c-clip and delrin bushing, then push the t-tabs in towards the inner leg. work your way around to remove the outer clip. do you have the race retainer for when you pull the assembly apart?

the bullet tool is to prevent the seal on the lower oil cap from tearing this seal is directional.

you should put phil wood oil on top and bottom of the air plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Did it

I woke up this morning after giving it some "sleep" thought. Daylight also helped in being able to see down the telescope.

Still, for 20 minutes I was indeed on a "fishing expedition" (to quote Mendon). I decided to try to wedge something relatively pliable beneath three of the T-clips, and use a jewler's flathead to push the fourth and to scoop up the outer race ring.

It worked. Took two minutes. It should be easier the next times.

Photo below.
 

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unemployed team mechanic
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i use the following craftsman pick set. The one on the left is perfect for the race clips

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947090000P

as far as tenacious oil on the piston, 20 cc below ( i just give the bottle a good squeeze for a second or 2). and on top i put a good bit in there because of the shape of the piston where the spacer goes in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sweet! Thanks! I'll order that pick set.

I didn't get any further in disassembly because I had a number of things to take care of today. Quite honestly, I'm not sure "what's next", so I've got to educate myself further before I make a mess.

You can see the races are corroded and rough. The fork is relatively clean now that I had cleaned off most of the surface grease, but the grease that you do see is dirty as heck. I'm assuming that maybe flipping the inner bearings might be a possibility (to use the smooth back surface), but I'll have to replace the bearings since they've had plenty of dirt soup in them. Right now I don't even know whether these all come as a kit or whether the bearings are in a separate kit than the races. I'll have to bone up on this.

The first one is always a learning experience.

Captain Pabst said:
i use the following craftsman pick set. The one on the left is perfect for the race clips

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947090000P

as far as tenacious oil on the piston, 20 cc below ( i just give the bottle a good squeeze for a second or 2). and on top i put a good bit in there because of the shape of the piston where the spacer goes in.
 

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unemployed team mechanic
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races come as an outer kit. (HDR1G/024 ● Kit,Race-Outer:7.480” x .024”)

there are 4 different inner race thickness' they come 4 to a pack. the inner races are sized as pairs, you may have all 4 the same, or 2 different sizes in which you would need 2 packs. the shiny side of the races faces out.

HDR2P/020 ● Kit,Race-Inner:7.520” x .020”
HDR2P/021 ● Kit,Race-Inner:7.520” x .021”
HDR2P/022 ● Kit,Race-Inner:7.520” x .022”
HDR2P/023 ● Kit,Race-Inner:7.520” x .023”


HD161/ LEFTY NEEDLE BEARINGS x 4
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thansk, Captain Pabst.

I haven't touched the fork since I took the clip out. I'm hoping to fully dissassemble the fork tonight after work.

But I've got to admit, I'm at a loss. I don't know how this thing is going to come apart. From the reading I've done here on the forum, I assumed that once the clip is removed, telescope separation would be easy on obvious, but it is not.

Also, on this fork,with the cartridge removed, race clip removed, etc., I only have a length of 665 to 670 mm. That's quite a bit short of where it should be. I'm only mentioning it because it might be tied to the reason why the fork isn't simply disassembling itself at this point.

Thanks!
 

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unemployed team mechanic
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if youve never taken apart a headshock or a lefty, and are having an issue id suggest you stop before your races are on the floor.

do you have the needle bearing race retainer long and black with a 10mm nut on one end and a rubber expander on the other end?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Another step: getting there

OK. So I finally had a few minutes and split the telescope.

As I previously mentioned, after removing the outer race clip underneath the delrin sleeve, I expected this thing to simply pop apart. But I couldn't even get it to the "normal" 695mm. After inspecting it closely, I figured there must be some kind of obstruction. And indeed there was: grime, grime, more grime, and them some more. And a little bit extra. Between the races and the needlebearings. Even a little between the inner races and the fork lower.

Way too much fine grime and not enough lube. So it was very tight. I added some lube and cycled the fork to get the lube distributed and the grime diluted. It finally it came apart.

The inner races are retained with the Mendon sausague inner tube trick so that they didn't go flying. Both inner and outer races are shot. In fact, the surfaces of the fork lower that mates to the inner races has surface discoloration. Tomorrow, I'll measure my inner races and order them.

Pabst, I didn't remove the inner race clip after all. I didn't see the point. (I'm talking about the clip that sits on top the air chamber, where the damper screws in to.) Since it is imporant to not lose track of the inner races, I used a cable tie to retain them in place. So there was no flying of parts. The inners are sitting on the fork lower right now, retained by the inner race clip on top and a cable tie towards the bottom.
 
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