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even after reading many of the threads about frames breaking on GF Paragon and X-Caliber bikes, i went ahead and purchased a used 2010 Paragon. This particular 1 has no signs of any anomalies around the seat tube/top tube weld. None that are visible anyway. i have noticed that the 2011 and later Paragon frames now have 2 cutout slits from the top of the seat tube. These cutouts are on each side of the post and appear to be biased toward the front face of the seat tube. The 2010 frames had just the 1 cutout that was located on the rear of the seat tube. And maybe the 2011+ frames have less seat tube exposed above the top tube intersect? i am just going on various pictures.

what i am wondering is if there are things i can do to lower the risk of that frame breakage at the seat tube/top tube weld on the bike i just bought....by any of the following:
1. swap the current seat post for 1 that is damped(?). would that reduce the impact forces put to the frame? btw, i am ~225 pounds + camelbak.
2. additional cutouts at the same seat tube location as the 2011+ frames have? or am i totally off in thinking that this has anything to do with the forces that contribute to frame breaking?
3. maybe even shortening the seat tube? just asking:)

yes, i am a newbie to mtb'ing. so if these are ridicules questions.....i will bame it on that:thumbsup:

pics are of a 2011 Paragon and a 2007 Paragon Frame--->
 

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SS Pusher Man
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Supposedly the cracking issues were resolved for the most part with the 2009/2010 frames.

I have not heard as many breaking them since then.

2006-2008 were almost guarantied to crack.

You should be fine.....just make sure you have plenty of seatpost in the frame.
 

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No issues with my 2009 Paragon. I hovered around 210-220 at the time I rode it. I did upgrade to a Thomson clamp since the stock Bontrager didn't seem to do the job of keeping the post from slipping. Great bike but I am selling the frame now...moving on to something steel or full suspension.
 

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As the owner of an '11 Paragon I can attest to them still cracking. I'm currently waiting to do another (first frame was a '10 Cobia) exchange. Luckily for me my LBS takes care of me, but if this frame goes I'm giving up Fisher/Trek entirely.

I'm a similar weight so the only thing I can suggest is maybe a heavier duty clamp.

Good luck!
 

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I built up a 2005 frame in 2008 (Paragon) and ride some really nasty stuff in Pa. (and have just been lucky that it hasn't broken yet.) I also had no warranty buying used... I Tell folk's that I got one of the defective one's (that was made stronger in that area)-----I also ride 'like a cat', get your butt off the seat when it gets tuff..
But yeah, I still read (and hear at local shops) that even the new Trek's are still breaking (HT and FS)-------
---------But something aint right with these frames and my next one will be a Niner RDO, because I could not stand to get the Superfly 100 (paying 6K) and have the swingarm/chainstay break next week---Then go 2 months without a bike, Period--still having to pay my LBS to switch out all the parts and tune up the bike--so another $500 everyhtime the fame breaks!!---
----ALSO with my next bike (FS) I wan't to ride ALOT HARDER trails, and my bike skills have improved where I want to race (and just go all out on rides not being concerned about picking better lines, or staying off the seat--WITH NO WARRANTY)------I was a HUGE Fisher fan, I got a G1 with a older Reba (that had a 38mm offset)----But when I got the new Reba (it had a 46mm offset)----and made my G1 feel like a G2----------------------------------
-----------t but the more I learn/ride/spend $$ I now want to get something less prone to cracking.....
 
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