ive never ridden the SE but i can promise you, that the redline is a great frame for the money. i love mine, even though i have changed everything about the bike.
The new Stout is Chromoly from the specs on the S.E. site.gdlals said:I have an SE Stout. It rides great and is surprisingly more compliant than it looks. I bought it because 1) It could easily be converted to 1x9 2) Had reasonably good wheels/tires for the price 3) It was cheap, $275 new. With conversion to 1x9, disk front brake, etc., the total build was $450.
The SE Stout is an aluminum frame, the Redline is steel for what its worth.
Oh yeah, forgot, the 2009 is steel. I have a 2008 which is aluminum.chakujitsu said:The new Stout is Chromoly from the specs on the S.E. site.
Any chance you could post pics of your ride and a closeup of the rear end conversion to geared.?
That sounds about right. Mines 29.5 with the heavy tire upfront and no changes to pedal, seatpost or saddleJlee197853 said:I have to argue with you on the weight issue. My medium stout was 26.5 pounds stock. I changed the pedals, seatpost, and saddle, handlebars (FU2Bars), and stem, and got it down to just over 25 pounds. I wouldn't call that heavy. As parts wear out, and I upgrade the bike, I think I could get it down to 22 to 23 easy. I think weight is way overrated when riding rigid anyway. I would rather have something a little heavier to absorb the punishment, then some lightweight weenie bike.![]()
Really like how you did that build! You could show up to any race at all, and not feel naked, on that bike.:thumbsup:gdlals said:Oh yeah, forgot, the 2009 is steel. I have a 2008 which is aluminum.
The rear-end conversion is super-easy, the bikes come with a geared cassette style freehub. The single speed cog is a simple stamped cog with spacers. All you have to do is remove the spacers and cog and you have a standard rear hub which will accept a 9-speed cassette. Here's what I did on my upgrades:
- Added 9-speed SRAM cassette. Had to slightly adjust dish and spoke tension on rear wheel. The horizontal drop-out tensioner has an integrated derailleur hanger
- Removed stock front hub, replaced Shimano hub/disk compatible.
- Added BB-7 / 185mm in front
- Added BBG bashguard
- Added SRAM X7 rear derailleur, SRAM shifter, upgraded cables since I had to buy for rear derailleur and front brake anyway
- Added Ergons
- Converted to tubeless, WTB Stout in front.
Thanks. It has been a very good bike for me. Last weekend I racked up 40Km, 1,153meter elevation change ride with it, no problems.Doggity said:Really like how you did that build! You could show up to any race at all, and not feel naked, on that bike.:thumbsup:
The reason why the new aluminum bike rides better is because of the 29" wheel vs. 26" wheel. Try to compare apples to apples. I initially rode an aluminum 29er. Switched to a steel one and it definitely rides better (for me). Much smoother.Jlee197853 said:I have the aluminum one. The ride is very compliant. I had a steel specialized way back, and this one rides way better than that. I think the debate of steel and aluminum is overrated in a 29er. The way the wheels roll over everything really soaks up the bumps. The web blog 29er reviewed the aluminum stout and were impressed with it.:thumbsup:
I say it's not "Mucking" your decision, rather "Making" your decision.....Good luck......CF.Greeny said:uh oh - bikesdirect just put out another one that's mucking up my decision making... windsor ss 29er with disk brakes...
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/windsor_cliff29_1.htm
(was planning on upgrading to disks on the monocog or stout)