Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am nearing the completion of a Ti XC build and looking for recommendations, I have a few goals with it, Quality (No cheap components) Weight (trying to be sub 25lb) and Strength as I am a heavier rider. Details are as follows.

Frame: Sandvik Ti (Mongoose DX10)
XTR V-Brake/Levers
XTR Front/Rear Derailliur(sp?)
Race Face Forged cranks, Ti Bottom Bracket
Rock Shox SID front fork
Chris King Headset w/winwood carbon spacers.
Easton EA50 Stem + Bars, Avenir Ti Barends, Oury grips.
Wheelset Cane Creek WAM Team (Ti spokes)
Cheap Ti Skewers
Maxxis Larsen 2.0 rear Minotaur Full 1.9 front tires (regular tube etc)

I still need
saddle/seatpost - Thinking Thomson Elite and selle italia Flite?
chain - Thinking SRAM road chain for 9spd?
cassette - XTR Unless there is one available as light or maybe better for less or similar $$$
shifter pods - thinking XT/XTR any opinions about which is better worth it etc
shoes/pedals - never rode clipless before so I just want somehting light and not hard to get used to.


any other things I am missing? any recommendations?
 

·
-> SickLines.com <-
Joined
·
3,196 Posts
Carbon&Ti_Guy said:
I am nearing the completion of a Ti XC build and looking for recommendations, I have a few goals with it, Quality (No cheap components) Weight (trying to be sub 25lb) and Strength as I am a heavier rider. Details are as follows.

Frame: Sandvik Ti (Mongoose DX10)
XTR V-Brake/Levers
XTR Front/Rear Derailliur(sp?)
Race Face Forged cranks, Ti Bottom Bracket
Rock Shox SID front fork
Chris King Headset w/winwood carbon spacers.
Easton EA50 Stem + Bars, Avenir Ti Barends, Oury grips.
Wheelset Cane Creek WAM Team (Ti spokes)
Cheap Ti Skewers
Maxxis Larsen 2.0 rear Minotaur Full 1.9 front tires (regular tube etc)

I still need
saddle/seatpost - Thinking Thomson Elite and selle italia Flite?
chain - Thinking SRAM road chain for 9spd?
cassette - XTR Unless there is one available as light or maybe better for less or similar $$$
shifter pods - thinking XT/XTR any opinions about which is better worth it etc
shoes/pedals - never rode clipless before so I just want somehting light and not hard to get used to.


any other things I am missing? any recommendations?
Have fun with that Sid if you are truly a "heavy" rider.

You could go dura-ace/ultegra cassette its a 12-27 so its not for just anybody i suppose.
I've never tried the RF ti bb's, but i find the new shimano xt/xtr & /raceface deus' alot stiffer.

And your tire choice seems sketchy... Depending on the trail you're riding i'd get a more solid performing tire and if you're not lightweight i don't think you'd enjoy 1.9 minatours no matter how cheap they are..
 

·
SUBLIM8er
Joined
·
2,203 Posts
I agree with the 12/27 Dura Ace cassette idea. This saves much weight but you really need to run it with a compact crankset (58/94BCD) so that you can get that 20tooth granny ring on there for the steep stuff. So, as long as you are going with the compact crank and the road cassette you're now open to run a Dura Ace RD at 180 grams compared to 207 or so for the XTR RD. When you buy the crankset just get the crankarms so that you can build them up with some lightweight rings. This saves lots. I bought a Raceface Next LP with the rings and those new Raceface rings are great shifting but very heavy compared to the Sugino Supershifters I have now and they shift great. Also, I don't know how you feel about gripshifting but the SRAM Rockets are way cheaper than a XTR alternative and lighter I think. As for pedals this depends on your weight. If you want a TI spindle you are limited to a 185 pounds by most brands. Most people swear by the eggbeaters but I like the Speedplay Frogs. Have fun with the build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
mtb_biker said:
Have fun with that Sid if you are truly a "heavy" rider.

You could go dura-ace/ultegra cassette its a 12-27 so its not for just anybody i suppose.
I've never tried the RF ti bb's, but i find the new shimano xt/xtr & /raceface deus' alot stiffer.

And your tire choice seems sketchy... Depending on the trail you're riding i'd get a more solid performing tire and if you're not lightweight i don't think you'd enjoy 1.9 minatours no matter how cheap they are..
Well I am in the 200--220 range which is the max for the SID AFAIK so until I get below 200 I will need to be gentle on the SID but I got it for $150 off of ebay so if I blow it out I am not going to lose sleep over it. Plus I was big on biking like 5-6 years ago and the SID was pretty much the way to go due to tunability, any recommendations as to what other forks would be as adjustable/tunable and be a 100mm or less travel?

Tires, I am in Virginia so I don't think there is a whole lot of good riding where I am (Norfolk/Hampton Roads area) and a lot of it will be road work and hardpack some singletrack here and there. it's not very hilly tho, pretty flat. I thought the Minotaurs would be good for fronts because they are direction specific? I used to run the Geax Sedonas and thought they were pretty good but have always liked the nobby style tires that are similar in design to dirt bikes.

I will definetly look for ultegra/dura-ace cassettes and components now but since I already have mostly XTR and they have yet to be used I think I will stick with them and run the dura-ace/ultegra others....

Thanks for the info!!!
 

·
6x7=Dont Panic!
Joined
·
2,014 Posts
For some really great ideas see what others here did on their bikes. You can see many light builds on DirtBoy's site, lightbikes.com. I also agree with that dura ace cassette. Some of the parts on those builds might not be strong enough (eg, 3x ti eggbeaters), but many of the parts are strong and light.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
428 Posts
mtb_biker said:
Have fun with that Sid if you are truly a "heavy" rider.QUOTE]

AMEN to that.

I am not a super discerning rider and many of the tuning subtleties available in modern forks are lost on me. But even I was able to tell how much SIDs suck for someone my size (~190 lbs). I didn;t have durability problems, but the 28mm stanchions are very flexy- the fork would tend to load up and jam the front end against rocks rather than roll over them, and also twist alot in corners.

The Fox that came on my Stumpjumper FSR is a HUGE improvement mainly due to the 32mm stanchions I would guess, and doesn;t weigh any more. Admittedly these are pricey shocks, but you can get a very nice Marzocchi, also quite stiff, for much less.

There is a reason, IMO, that the SID only cost you $150.
 

·
SUBLIM8er
Joined
·
2,203 Posts
Agreed, the Sid may not be the fork of choice for those over 185 but my experience with this fork has been very good so don't give up on it just yet. Make sure you watch the pressure and don't overinflate the damping and you should be ok. IMHO the SID is at it's best when you run it stiff and don't have expectations that it should eat up every little bump on the trail. It's a race fork and works great in this application.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well I got it mostly for the tuning reasons and the price (For $150 that is better then something new for ~200) But I am looking into possibly a Manitou Skareb elite, I just want something thats lightweight and will take some abuse but isn't going to break the bank, right now the Fox line looks pretty nice but the prices ~500 and the weight (over 4lbs) are somewhat discouraging. I haven't had much experience with the manitou line but a sub 3.75lb fork with 80-100mm travel for 300 or less seems like a good deal to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
428 Posts
Carbon&Ti_Guy said:
Well I got it mostly for the tuning reasons and the price (For $150 that is better then something new for ~200) But I am looking into possibly a Manitou Skareb elite, I just want something thats lightweight and will take some abuse but isn't going to break the bank, right now the Fox line looks pretty nice but the prices ~500 and the weight (over 4lbs) are somewhat discouraging. I haven't had much experience with the manitou line but a sub 3.75lb fork with 80-100mm travel for 300 or less seems like a good deal to me.
From the weight weenies site:

2001 SID XC (my old fork): 3.16 lbs.
2003 Fox Float RL (I have a 2004, probably similar): 3.72 lbs.

There are some Fox models that are lighter. The extra half pound is hugely worth it to me for a fork that performs so much better. I do admit that part of this is the benefit of being 3 years newer with better technology.

Your point about the prices is right on- Foxes are spendy. I was looking at upgrading to one, but in the end got an completely new bike with 2 Fox shocks because Specialized prices are so good for what you get. I got a 2004 Stumpy FSR Comp for $1600, swapped on a bunch of better parts from my 2001 Stumpy Pro, sold the Pro (with mostly new parts) for $800. Net cost of the new bike was $800, about what I would have to pay for just the Fox Float RL and Triad that came on it.

Supergo offers good prices on some Manitous, they would probably work well. Before deciding to buy a new bike I was looking at Marzocchi Marathon MXs- but they are around 4 pounds.

At any rate, I think the 28mm stanchions on the SIDs are just too small and flexy for people our size though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
So pretty much stay away from forks with the 28mm stanchions, which I imagine has a lot to do with the Skareb being so close in weight to the SID which would make the skareb no better, looks like I am going to have to bite the bullet on weight, although the Marzocchi Marathon SL's look to be pretty light and they have a little bigger stanchions so I am thinking this would be the lightweight fork of choice for a clyde?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,807 Posts
Carbon&Ti_Guy said:
So pretty much stay away from forks with the 28mm stanchions, which I imagine has a lot to do with the Skareb being so close in weight to the SID which would make the skareb no better, looks like I am going to have to bite the bullet on weight, although the Marzocchi Marathon SL's look to be pretty light and they have a little bigger stanchions so I am thinking this would be the lightweight fork of choice for a clyde?
Some 30mm stanchion forks under 4 lbs which can be found <$300:
Black Super
Duke Race

Also, Jenson has the Talas R fork on sale for $409 (hope the following link works):
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product.aspx?i=FK707A57
Ok it's 3.9lbs, too heavy?
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top