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igoslo
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First a little back story.

I'm a big guy, 250lbs, 5'8" and I don't necessarily ride gently. I started breaking rear axles on my 26er Unit about a year after I got it and I broke two more plus one in the front in the following six months. After breaking the hub shell I built a wheelset around WI ENO hubs and couldn't be happier, 2.5 years in and zero hub issues.

I bought an El Mariachi last November and I'm back at it again. I've broken my first rear axle(M756 XT) on the bike and may have done further damage to the hub, I'm going to wait until I get home to tear into it. Anyway, the point is that my budget is a bit tight and even though I'd like to get a WI M16 I don't think that's in the cards. So what's strong and costs around $100 +/-?

May be worth noting that the build will include my current Salsa Semi rim that still spins true.
 

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If you're an SSer this is your hub. If you're a gearie you are fooked at the price point you reference. You need a proper nutted axle or bolt-on rear hub that is going to cost you 2x+ what you've mentioned as a budget.

FWIW - you are not unusually heavy for this forum. CK and others make HD rear axles...
 

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Buddy, buy a Hadley hub with a 10mm TA. (or another WI)

$100 for a reliable geared hub (for a clyde) is simply unrealistic. Your riding history will tell you that.
 

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TLL said:
Buddy, buy a Hadley hub with a 10mm TA. (or another WI)

$100 for a reliable geared hub (for a clyde) is simply unrealistic. Your riding history will tell you that.
+1 with the Hadleys and thru-bolt. Reasonably light, very responsive (with 72pt engagement conversion), and very stiff with the thru-bolt.

I swapped the Hadley 10mm skewer for the DT Swiss RWS 10mm for tool-free tightening.
 

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fritZman said:
+1 with the Hadleys and thru-bolt. Reasonably light, very responsive (with 72pt engagement conversion), and very stiff with the thru-bolt.

I swapped the Hadley 10mm skewer for the DT Swiss RWS 10mm for tool-free tightening.
Yeah, I have a DT RWS, but just can't bring myself to use it because the Hadley axle is a work of art. DT is far easier to use, though.

The engagement on the Hadley hub is awesome, as you point out. I notice an immediate difference :sad: when I jump back on the bike that has the Hope hubs.
 

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mtbr Buckeye...in Austin
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809 Posts
If this is your rear....don't forget the free steel freehub body upgrade from Hadley.

They were great when I dented the hell out of mine with cranking on the chain, cassette dug into the free hub body. Had to have 2 chain whips to get it off. Not pretty.

Sent it in to Hadley, week later, STEEL freehub for free!

CK charges a few hundred for that.

LOVE the engagement on my Hadley and will be taking it with me to my 29er.
 

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rider
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SoloRider said:
These are the kind of answers I was afraid of. Schmucker might be on to something though, at least as a stop gap measure.
The solid axle will not be much stronger than one with the 5mm hole thru it for a Q/R skewer. You will pick up a bunch of rigidity because of the much higher clamping force the track nuts can apply. You will get some positive benefit with the axle life issue because of the reduced twisting in the rear end. Might be worth a try.
 

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Been there, done that. Solution? DT Swiss 440 Freeride hubs. 10mm through bolt, bolt on axle. End of problems for me. $100 won't afford you nothing but grief, unless you can find a used wheel on Ebay for the rear for around $150. They are hard to find, and it's a crap shoot on what you get..
 

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Gotta agree w/ everything stated above. Look for a used Hadley online somewhere--they can be found for a decent price. You ain't gonna find nuttin' in your price range that will hold up to abuse.
Go w/ a bolt on Hadley and be done with it!
 
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