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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just received my Reba Race 29er w poploc wich will be mated to my Mooto-X YBB.

Now I know this has been discussed a few times before but I'd appreciate some advise on solving the floodgate knob / dowtube issue. I knew upfront this could be an issue and I'm prepared to deal with it.

I just measured it and with using a CK headset I will have to stack 4-5 mm (approx. 0.2 inch) to have the floodgate knob run free under the downtube. Would it be possible to put a 4-5 mm shim between the crownrace and the baseplate? I noticed the thicker area were the baseplate goes is quite high on the Reba. I'd prefer this over a higher stack headset since the CK is already here. What's more, I doubt another headset will give me the 4-5 mm extra I need.

I know I can always convert to the Sl with internal floodgate adjust and then don't need the extra stack height, but then I'd probably lose the poploc option wich seems usefull for my kind of riding.... Anyone know if it's possible to have the poploc option with internal floodgate adjuster?

Your input is much appreciated!
 

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Where's Toto?
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Ti,

There are several headset makers (King included) that make cups with longer insertion sleeves(?part that inserts in the frame?) - intended for freeride type stuff (King steelset for one). The longer sleeve should allow insertion of a shim, while still providing plenty to go into the frame. Several here have also had luck with using a lower headset cup with more stack height (FSA and one of the Cane Creeks are the two I seem to remember). In order to put a shim on the fork crown, the crown race would need to have enough purchase on the steer tube for a press fit. Not sure if you put a shim on the tube you could still get a proper fit.
 

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I called King about this

I called King about this as I wanted to use a king hs on my bike and needed (still need actually) more room. I was thinking a steelset lower race with a "regular" rest of the headset. and a shim as you described. They said to not do it as it would do something bad...can't quite remember the details. I'm using an FSA orbit UL now, it's got a taller lower headset stack but it still isn't quite tall enough for that friggin' knob so I'm in limbo too.

I have seen a couple of pics of a Cane Creek S2 lower that was really tall, like 17mm or something that would be perfect but I don't know where you can get'em. If you find out, please let me know :)

And if you find another solution, please post it as well :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Eliminating options....

Fastskiguy/Endure26,

I guess you suggested to King to put a shim between the headtube and the lower headset bearingcup like endure26 described? I can Imagine King thinking this is not a good solution because when radial forces on the steerertube occur there will be a momentum created by the extension (shim) through the inserted part of the lower bearingup on the headtube. So probably we'll have to eliminate that option....

Best thing would be to have a baseplate that's about 4-5 mm thicker, I guess that would help you out to since you say 17 mm would suffice. Inserted the working height of a King is 13 mm including baseplate so 4-5 mm extra is all we need.

However since I do not imagine King will make this for just a few customers I will go and try the 4-5 mm shim option under the baseplate unless I run into an equally good headset in a few days with a lowercup that's 17-18 mm.

Last option will be converting to SL and thus get rid of the floodgateknob but I guess I'll have to let the poploc option go too? Anyone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Funny..

Yeah Quasi, we do :p

Seriously, a crash can happen any time and I do not want to brake the floodgate knob like someone on this forum had happen recently (and I think he didn't even crash), or worse, ruin my downtube....

Constructive advise is still welcome.
 
G

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I appreciate this (and other similar) threads. I am having Carl Stong build a 29er with a Reba for me this summer and hopefully I can get him to design in the appropriate clearances that are needed.

Thanks all.
 

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Carl'l take care of you

Indigo:
I had Strong build me a steel hardtail last summer around a White BW.8 and it has a mile of clearance from the fork crown to the downtube without anything funny about the design. Carl's the kind of guy that thinks "forward" and builds frames to work for a lifetime. If you raise the point with him he'll build it into the frame. Be sure to share pics when it's done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
On custom built frames it should be a non issue......

Having a new framebuild and taking into account possible clearanc problems upfront is very sensible of course.

I initiallty started this topic for others and myself to get some advise on solutions that are based on ideas or experiences of others, for dealing with this problem on stock frames that do have the problem. If you have a custom frame build and you take the clearance as a designfeature, you won't have the problem to begin with.
 

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Yeah, if you go custom, just be sure that they build it to fit the Reba specifically. Make that the Reba with PopLoc specifically.

Another option that's been mentioned is to double stack two CK crown races / baseplates. You'd have to dremel them down flat. That'll buy you some space. Don't really know the implications though.

I went with the internal adjustment (SL) option. The lockout switch on the fork is very easy to flip. You can just swipe it with your glove versus the Marzo ECC/ETA which you need to really grab hold of to turn. Plus I just didn't anticipate adjusting the Floodgate on the fly.

Cleanest option if you want to keep the external Floodgate and PopLoc option is to find a different headset. I don't think there are any other tricks out there. But you never know... S
 

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Ti,

You might want to ask King about making a thicker baseplate. That seems like the smartest option and shouldn't place any undue forces on the frame or fork. A shim really won't work as you can't get a press fit with the crown race, but a thicker race would do the trick. It would also be a simple trick for a machinist and some stainless steel stock.
 

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I

already asked CK and they politely said no to the thicker crown race. Gene Spicer suggested a FSA Pig DH headset with 3-5mm spacer that he could turn in house. Would leave you with as much or more lower HS insertion as a CK.

Ideal? No, but about as you're gonna get w/o ordering a custom frame.

Personally, I've reversed direction and decided that I'm willing to avoid the funny bidness and just let my KM take the scarring if/when the time comes. Chicks dig scars.

Sean
 

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veinte nueve pulgadas
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new plate

I have seriously been considering having a new base plate made. I have the software to draw it, I have the local machine shops to build it. What's stopping me? Time mostly.

I'm really curious what the shop is going to charge to make it. The first one will cost a bit more than additional ones will.

Wonder how many I could sell?
 

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Where's Toto?
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I would bet the price isn't too bad if you do a run of at least 25 or so. Not much machining involved if you start with the right stock. Bikeman sells CK base plates for $10.95. Given that this is a custom application, I'd say you could easily get $25+ each assuming the quality is good, same stainless material, etc. It's a lot cheaper than a big dink in a $500+ frame.

BTW - keep in mind that if you add 5mm to the crown race, you'll need an extra 5mm on the steer tube to maintain the same stem fit/configuration (should be able to drop 5mm of spacers - but you'll still need steer tube length).
 

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TiBiker said:
Yeah Quasi, we do :p

Seriously, a crash can happen any time and I do not want to brake the floodgate knob like someone on this forum had happen recently (and I think he didn't even crash), or worse, ruin my downtube....

Constructive advise is still welcome.
How about wrapping some cork bar tape around the tube where the fork will contact it if you crash? Not the best solution but it beats messing up your downtube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Temporary remedy...

Quasi:

As a temporary solution this may work, however you still can damage the fork of course. See http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=95343 where the DT was spared but the floodgate knob went.

Been thinking about it myself too since I want to finish the bike and go riding. Not sure though if cork tape will do the trick. Maybe a rubber based padding is better. Not very pretty but maybe an old innertube taped around the potential impact area is useable as a temporary solution. Again, this will probably not save the floodgate knob in a serious crash but at least the frame is protected.

Nzumbi:

I'm in!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Steering dampener/limiter

Anybody thought about this? Would a dampener help limiting the impactforce when overturning the steerertube? Not a cheap solution if you're thinking Hopey though.....

Also I thought I've seen a headset with built in (external) limiter not too long ago. Been searching but can't remember brand or website.... no idea what the quality is too...
 

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alright then...

I'm on the job. I need to yank one of my base plates off of one of my forks and measure it up. Once I get it drawn, the shop will probably take a week or two to get it done (the shops are always backed up around here...s-loads of navy contractors keep em busy). I'll have em make one and I'll see how it fits. I only need 2 or 3mm on my ride to clear the compression lever on the WB 1.0, but it will be a simple modofication on the drawing to make one with an extra 5mm, which seems to be what most folks want.

As endure26 said, make sure you have 5mm of stack height to give on the top end!

-zum
 
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