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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am building a 2010 Rip 9 frame I bought from the discount.

I bought a Reba 140 fork for the build.

My question is, will the 140 travel option be OK for the geometry? I am trying to figure out where to cut the steerer tube, and will need to be leaving an extra 20mm if I need to reduce the travel down the road.

Anybody set up a Rip with the Reba 140?

Pic of the build in progress.
 

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Dirty South Underdog
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I think he's implying that if he does have to reduce the travel, he'll want to move his handlebars up 2cm to compensate.

I don't know if you'll enjoy the handling of 140mm or not, but there's nothing wrong with leaving a little extra steertube up there until you're certain you've got everything just how you want it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yes

thats exactly what I mean. if I need to reduce it, I will need more steer tube to bring the handle bars up.
 

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Dude, seriously, build it up, don't cut the steerer yet and go ride, it'll be pretty obvious if you like the handling with the 140mm height or not. If you like it ride it about a bit more, do some steeper climbs and see where you want the bars, then as you say leave 20mm or more of steerer "in case" you decide to for some reason drop the travel or mayb use it on another frame with longer headtube etc. Personally I think the HA on the RIP is too steep for what it is anyway and should be a degree or 2 slacker.
 

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beater
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LyNx said:
Dude, seriously, build it up, don't cut the steerer yet and go ride, it'll be pretty obvious if you like the handling with the 140mm height or not. If you like it ride it about a bit more, do some steeper climbs and see where you want the bars, then as you say leave 20mm or more of steerer "in case" you decide to for some reason drop the travel or mayb use it on another frame with longer headtube etc. Personally I think the HA on the RIP is too steep for what it is anyway and should be a degree or 2 slacker.
+1. You can always cut, but can't add.

I've seen a lot of posts from people who like the RIP's handling with a longer fork, but off the top of my head, I don't remember an example of someone going back to a 120mm, although personal preference being what it is, presumably someone has.
 

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I've messed with a rip for a few minutes and the steering is super fast. I think it'd benifit from a taller than 120 fork. Maybe a spacer under the bottom cup of the headset.
 

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Got my 2010 RIP9 setup with a Marz 140mm, took it for a first ride yesterday, loved it. Coming from an IH 7point3 which is pretty slack already though. Here's a shot right before I really finished it, meant to take some pics before the ride yesterday but I couldn't wait.
 

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trail "cleaner"
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lower the cockpit...

I made the switch from a Team Reba 120mm to the new Reba 140mm RLT. To compensate for the higher front end, I went to a flat bar (salsa pro moto) with no spacers under the stem. Feels very balanced with this setup.
 

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Space Ghost
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Guys with the 140, how much higher is your BB? For where I ride, that would be an advantage. The handling is great, I am not worried about it becoming too slow.
 

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I measured it a one point, seem to recall 14" maybe plus a bit of change.
 

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i use the 140mm Reba on my new rip9. Love it. :) I use 1,5cm spacer & a syntace lowrider (1,5cm rise). My last testride was on a street with 27° - no problem. I have always the option to leave the spacer away or go with a flatbar.
 

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AZmtncycler said:
I made the switch from a Team Reba 120mm to the new Reba 140mm RLT. To compensate for the higher front end, I went to a flat bar (salsa pro moto) with no spacers under the stem. Feels very balanced with this setup.
Is that the RLT or the RLT TI you got from them?
 

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This seems to be pretty common, with the steeper head tube angle on the Niner FS bikes, slack it out with 20 or more mm of fork. Folks putting 140mm forks on RIPS, Dorado's on WFO's and being happy with the results.

For 2011, Niner has changed the spec by 1 degree more slack with the head tubes, and shortened the top tube accordingly to accommodate riders.

Do a search in the 29'er section about tuning up that Marzocchi and getting rid of the stiction, and the "clunk" on rebound. Not all of them experience this problem.
 

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RLT Ti

mtbboy2000 said:
Is that the RLT or the RLT TI you got from them?
Initially, it was a RLT but the communication from Niner to my Supplier (Larry) was it supposed to be a RLT Ti... So, they sent Larry a Blackbox damper and he dropped it in.
 

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And yet all I got when I kept saying this was that I was bagging on Niner :rolleyes: Guess I wasn't or maybe another way would be to say I was right :p
RandyBoy said:
This seems to be pretty common, with the steeper head tube angle on the Niner FS bikes, slack it out with 20 or more mm of fork. Folks putting 140mm forks on RIPS, Dorado's on WFO's and being happy with the results.

For 2011, Niner has changed the spec by 1 degree more slack with the head tubes, and shortened the top tube accordingly to accommodate riders.

Do a search in the 29'er section about tuning up that Marzocchi and getting rid of the stiction, and the "clunk" on rebound. Not all of them experience this problem.
 
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